few questions.

Being fairly new to the cycling world I'm wondering if anyone can offer up a definition to what Cadence is and why I would need a computer that has this feature.

I just purchased a "CatEye Cordless 7" but haven't taken it out of the box yet. This device doesn't have the cadence feature. I paid around 50 dollars for it but after surfing this forum I'm hearing a lot of talk about cadence and wondering if I should take it back in for a better one that has the feature.

Some have heart Monitors, some have cadence, what's the difference?

Also as far as signal, etc, will I have more problems with a wireless computer than a wired one?

I don't have cadence on my computer(the rate at which you are spinning the cranks usually measured in revolutions per minute). I simply count my rpms for 6 seconds and add a zero to the number. That's a quick and easy way to get your cadence and your heart rate(count pulse for 6 seconds and add a zero to the number for beats per minute).

That said...I am adding a Mavic Wintech computer soon and will probably get the cadence sensor with it.

Cadence is simply pedal speed or crank RPM. It is very important and incidentally something you DO want on your computer. Cadence is not only key to fitness but power generation as well. Its like being in a particular power band with your car as you are effectively the engine. There is a balance between torque and horsepower and you want to strike this while you ride by being in the proper gear relative to the amount of load you have be it into a stiff head wind on the flats or up a 5% grade. As to your computer, I would take it back because you do want cadence...I believe the centerpiece of a bike computer. The other thing is wireless computers can be sketchy in performance. Some will weigh in and claim they have had no issues but others have. If Karl falls through on buying my new Astrale 8 I got as a present, I will sell it to you for half what you paid for your cordless Cateye without cadence if interested.
HTH,
George

I grew up training without a computer. My coach was big on high cadence, low gears and smooth pedaling action. Today I'm 55 and have good knees, pedal very smoothly and use a cadence computer. I pay more attention to cadence than speed. For the new rider a cadence capable computer will help you train correctly as will a heart monitor. One of the attributes that makes Lance such a standout is his ability to maintain cadences are 10/15 RPM higher than his competition. Also it pays to have lungs the size of garbage cans. Higher cadences can be quite lung busting.

A good book to get is The Lance Armstrong Performance Program by Lance and Chris Carmichael

Also the bicycling magazines trainging book for bicyclists. MY book says that your not riding (not sure if it said pro after that) if you are riding in a lower cadence than 90

I'll offer a dissenting opinion re: cadence. Is it important? Yes. Should you have an idea about what your cadence is? Yes.

Should you fix yourself to a pre-determined cadence? Should you shoot for a cadence that Lance Armstrong and Chris Carmichael champion? If you don't maintain a 90-100 RPM cadence, does this mean you suck? No.

I'm early in my training for a first crack at racing this season, so let me qualify my expertise (read: none really). But what I've discovered is that I'm built to mash over modest rollers and flats. I'm broad-shouldered and fairly muscular from the hips down. I suck in and expend wind like nobody's bidness. I just feel like I get more speed with less RPMs than what most folks buzz over.

Power is where it is really at, and power is the product of not just cadence but cadence and torque. Power is measured in watts. Don't have the formula, but my computer estimates it. You could go to a lab for an accurate number.

Moral of the story: learn cadence and understand what works for you. But don't set yourself on an RPM that everybody else likes to talk about.

well said gcasillo.

What about heart monitors? It seems most computers come with either cadence or heart monitors (1 or the other but seldom both). Is cadence the more preferred way by bikers to monitor progress?

Get a copy of the Charmichael Book. It is a book for the novice as well as the journeyman. I'll never be a Lance and I'm well past my prime as far as racing goes. However, technicques I learned from this book have improved many aspects of my riding ability. I have read many fine books on training and fitness as it relates to cycling. This is one of the better and easy reads.

Quote, "Overall, there is no single best cadence. Terrain, wind conditions, and whether you're riding solo or in a group all influence your pedaling. You need to work well in a range of cadences. Most cyclists usually find efficent riding in a cadence range of 70 to 80 rpm. Most experienced riders usually are comfortable in the range of 80 to 90 rpm". pg 138 Essential Skills, The Lance Armstrong Performance Program. Notice the words "most" and "many".

A cadence capable cyclometer will allow the user to determine what their optimum cadence is then maintain it and taylor it. However, cadences of 90 and above are not for everyone.

Power is where it is at no question....but power depletes over time. The rate of depletion is determined by effefiency and economy. The most economical cyclist will deplete at a slower rate...all else being equal. So the rider with the best technique will slow his rate of decline and will have an advantage over the less effecient gear masher. It's not all about power...but how long can you sustain that power...and how well can you conserve it?..and how well you allocate the usage of it...and how much you have left near the end versus your competition. Of course power must always be joined at the hip with body weight. So we could never consider power without also considering it in the context of power to weight ratio

[QUOTE=Wheel Doctor] Also it pays to have lungs the size of garbage cans. Higher cadences can be quite lung busting.

If only I did...

I find cadence to be very useful when riding longs stretches into a headwind, or when I'm tired and something just doesn't feel right. At times like these if I check my cadence and find that I've dropped below 85 I'll downshift and raise the cadence to around 90. I'll usually start feeling better and my speed will stabilize or increase.

Same here. My daily 30 mile commute ride is flat but often windy. Like you when I sense that I expending too much energy for conditions I look down and see my cadence is in the low 80's. I shift and bring it back to 90+ and feel alot better. Monday it was 10 miles into a 15Kt wind with gusts to 20. Yesterday, Gale force winds flipped a tractor trailer full of canned goods on a local small bridge. I didn't ride.

Jude

It is generally a good idea for beginners to train to pedal at higher cadence.
You dont just pedal faster, this would use more power which you dont have.
You need to pedal with less force and more speed, in a circular action. That is why people switch to a lower gear.

here's a site where you can figure your speed at a cadence of 80 or 100. This will give you a rough idea of how fast you're spinning at various speeds in various gears.

Shoot for about 90 to start with.

Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator