I can feel some friction when I turn the bars back and forth and it makes a light rubbing sound. My other bike turns freely with no sound. Should I put some lube somewhere in there? I've never done any servicing of a headset.

Edit: I can feel the friction even when I've loosened the bolt so it's not that I've overtightened it.

Well yes, you should periodically check and regrease your headset bearing cartridges. I check mine about once a year, or when I do something bad like fall in a river. However, the only.time I've personally experienced what you've described was when I reassembled my headset incorrectly. Keep in mind that if the stem was clamped down after the headset bolt was overtightened, it wouldn't be enough just to loosen the bolt. Did you also loosen the stem bolts after you loosened the headset? If you did and the issue is still there, I'd pull it apart and carefully check the bearings and races for excessive wear and lack of lubrication.

Just go to Park Tool's site and learn how to take it out, clean it, lube it, and put it back in. If you do that and still hear a noise it might be time for a new one.

OP, I advise you remove your front wheel. Without the extra mass attached to the headset , you can feel the tightness of the headset bearings much better. Make your adjustments without the wheel attached, and you will be able to feel when headset is proper tightness. Removing handlebar can also help. You rotate the headset just with the stem. Much more sensitive. This is in support of the information you get with bar and wheel in place and rocking the front end with brakes engaged. Park should tell you how to do that.

Agree. Take it apart and figure it out...or take it to the shop.

I took the front wheel off and played with adjusting the stem cap bolt. If I tighten enough so there's no play in the fork then there is still noticeable friction when turning back and forth. If I loosen enough so turning is easy then there is play in the fork.

The headset that came on the bike is: FSA IS2 Sealed Bearing Threadless 1.125 inch

I looked up some videos on how to clean regrease the bearings but I assume sealed bearings can't be regreased?

Edit: Google search reveals I can regrease sealed bearings. I'll give that a try and post the results.

OP how are you loosening the stem cap bolt and still managing to turn the fork? are the stem bolt also tight? the stem cap bolt is just set pre load. try these steps. loosen everything. then slowly tighten stem cap bolt. bounce wheel...hear a rattle from loose fork? No? great, the fork is tight enough. tighten stem bolts and leave it alone. if its too tight after this step then the pre load on the fork is tight high (ie, you overtightened the stem cap bolt. it takes so practice but dont crank down to hard or you might loosen the star nut.

Pretty sure I've previously overtightened the stem cap bolt. I'll claim stupidity on that one. I'm planning to take it to the LBS tomorrow but I do hope to eventually learn how to do this stuff myself.

ok OP, but here is the deal, by simply loosening the stem cap bolt and not loosening the stem bolts, you are accomplishing nothing to alleviate the overtightening. always start with the stem cap bolt. dont worry about turning the fork side to side to check for play, thats accomplished by either bouncing the wheel or applying the front brake to see if the fork is loose. once you get the fork tight without forward and back play (the headset and fork will be tight enough) now you tighten the stem bolts. the stem cap bolt is only to draw the fork up into the frame, it doesn't do anything for actually holding the stem on to the fork will any bit of reliability.

i don't have headset friction issues, but this is a very good idea . wish i'd thought of it... probably will the next time the subject comes up

I just serviced my 'non serviceable' headset this past month, it was getting crunchy and clicked. Took all the moving parts out, ran in ultrasonic cleaner, greased; headset is smooth as butter. Told my LBS the story and he said "annually" is a good schedule for the headset.

I tried all the suggestions here (thank you all) but still couldn't get it right.

I took it to the LBS. The compression plug in the steerer had moved a bit either from me over tightening or because the plug was well above where the stem was bolted on. I had a lot of steerer sticking up with the stem slammed. The LBS guys said if the stem is bolted on where the compression plug is then that helps a little to keep it in place.

I had them chop off the extra steerer tube and get the headset adjusted properly and it's perfect now. I'd been meaning to get it chopped anyway because it looked rather silly.

Well the friction is back again but now I've noticed the pattern. It's after a wet ride. Does this sound like I need to regrease the bearings?

Others will disagree with this, but I don't advise messing with sealed bearing cartridges. If you think they are faulty in any way, just replace them. Unless you have an old-fashioned cup and cone headset with bearings either loose or in a retainer clip, greasing the bearings doesn't really make sense. That's why sealed bearings were invented: to stay sealed and to not have to be greased. More than likely you're headset is too tight.

BTW this couldn't be brake or derailleur cable rubbing on your head tube you're hearing, could it?

It's an integrated headset. FSA Orbit, I believe. It's definitely not the cables rubbing because I can adjust it so it's perfect. The problem seems to be that after a ride it either loosens up and develops some play in the fork or it tightens up and has friction. Just doesn't seem to stay where it's set.

The reason I was thinking to regrease the bearings was just because it seemed easier than trying to figure out what the right replacement would be to order. So many to choose from, I have no clue.

First pass is to take the bearings into your LBS and ask for a replacement. They will either have them, order them, or tell you where to buy them. I hope! If that doesn't work, often the specifications online for a headset model will list the bearing type/number. Or even easier, if you google "Cane Creek S6 headset" you get a list of places offering the exact bearing that head set uses. I just tried that one. Just make sure to specify the top and bottom diameter.

Good thing about replacing your bearings is that is where all the moving parts are. If you have new bearings and still have a problem, something is amiss how the whole shebang is put together.

Thanks. I found and ordered the bearings. Will report back after trying that.

Nevermind, re-read your OP. Just buy new headset then. I've seen Cane Creek integrated headsets for $30.
- Though I'm surprised about your FSA Orbit since they are used on mountain bikes and outlast the bike itself.

Update: I replaced the headset bearings and it was really easy to get it adjusted between having play and it feeling tight. I never even tightened enough to get it tight. After 60 miles today it feels perfect. I think I just killed the bearing by riding around so long with it too tight. Thanks to everyone for helping me understand how to properly adjust it.