Update: Venge owners post your impressions, likes and dislikes / opinions and advice
01-06-14, 03:33 PM
#101
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No, if its a braze-on, which I believe the SL4 Roubaix are.
The other adjustmenst are all done by eye/ gap measurement.
I adjust mine on the trainer, not in the stand. It seems to help being able to see how things will work under load, not just spinning freely in the air. My frames definately flex under load sufficiently to require accommodation of that fact.
The other adjustmenst are all done by eye/ gap measurement.
I adjust mine on the trainer, not in the stand. It seems to help being able to see how things will work under load, not just spinning freely in the air. My frames definately flex under load sufficiently to require accommodation of that fact.
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01-06-14, 03:50 PM
#102
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Some more pics.
If I would have been on the market last year this would have been the frame of choice. Tom Boonen World Champion
And of course back then they had what I believe is one of the few Campy equiped Specialized bikes
If I would have been on the market last year this would have been the frame of choice. Tom Boonen World Champion
And of course back then they had what I believe is one of the few Campy equiped Specialized bikes
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01-06-14, 04:31 PM
#103
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01-06-14, 04:33 PM
#104
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that's the only way I got my R5 to shifting properly, money well spent Luis.
Thank you Fred. I think this is starting to go a little beyond my control. I am going to take them for a paid service. I took it 3 times to 2 different shops with no success, both shops with their free tune ups (I'm a regular customer). I am going to tell them to do a paid tune up and leave it like new. I know it is like 70 bucks but for peace of mind I want it done perfect.
Need to put new tubes as well on two wheels. Hopefully my Pro 4 doesn't have a whole in it.
Need to put new tubes as well on two wheels. Hopefully my Pro 4 doesn't have a whole in it.
01-06-14, 04:35 PM
#105
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Sure it's not an ingrown toenail? Can be incredibly painful, can get pus build up under the nail and hurts like a mother, will also be quite red.
But the fact you don't recall injuring and having probs with finger and toe, maybe it is gout?
But the fact you don't recall injuring and having probs with finger and toe, maybe it is gout?
Maybe I'll go home tonight and set up my hobby garage and work some on the bike... you know what? that's what I'll do. Distract myself adjusting things with youtube as my mentor 
.
In other news - today I've discovered that I might have a broken finger and a broken toe after 3 weeks trying to figure out what was wrong with both. the 4rth finger from the right hand is swollen and red, has been for 2 weeks and itches a lot or hurts... one of the two.
The big toe is a little more complicated. At first I thought I was just losing my nail but it seems to be ok. It is swollen and red as well. It hurts a lot after long ride 3+ hours.
What confuses me is, how can I still move them? The only reason I've completely discarded them as being broken is because I could always move them. Somebody saw my finger and immediately thought it was broken...
I don't recall hitting anything hard enough to break something but then again I hit myself constantly with all sorts of walls, motorcycles tend to fall on my feet and I tend to cut / smash my hands when working on them. Is it possible that I've ridden so much on my bikes that the consistent pressure on my hands and feel could have broken or splintered my finger and toe???
PS: At first I thought it was Gout but that does not seem like a possibility.. I think
.In other news - today I've discovered that I might have a broken finger and a broken toe after 3 weeks trying to figure out what was wrong with both. the 4rth finger from the right hand is swollen and red, has been for 2 weeks and itches a lot or hurts... one of the two.
The big toe is a little more complicated. At first I thought I was just losing my nail but it seems to be ok. It is swollen and red as well. It hurts a lot after long ride 3+ hours.
What confuses me is, how can I still move them? The only reason I've completely discarded them as being broken is because I could always move them. Somebody saw my finger and immediately thought it was broken...
I don't recall hitting anything hard enough to break something but then again I hit myself constantly with all sorts of walls, motorcycles tend to fall on my feet and I tend to cut / smash my hands when working on them. Is it possible that I've ridden so much on my bikes that the consistent pressure on my hands and feel could have broken or splintered my finger and toe???
PS: At first I thought it was Gout but that does not seem like a possibility.. I think
Last edited by zvez; 01-06-14 at 04:39 PM.
01-06-14, 04:47 PM
#106
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Regarding the FD:
1. The gap between the big ring and the outer cage should be 3MM or less. It should basically be as tight as you can make it. Shimano puts a little tape guide on new FDs for this purpose. Also the cage needs to be perfectly parallel with the rings. This is tough to eyeball as the cage bends in at the front. I generally pull the cage out manually and eyeball it from above to ensure it's directly in line with the rings prior to attaching the shift cable.
2. The chain should just barely avoid rubbing the cage when it's on the largest (innermost) rear cog / small ring combo. Adjust the stop screw to ensure that there's no room left at all.
3. If all else fails, consider going back to Shimano rings. If you don't have any, this is an expensive option but I've found that the OEM rings just work better. The good news is that chainrings last essentially forever as far as I can tell.
Lots of shops don't do this right.
1. The gap between the big ring and the outer cage should be 3MM or less. It should basically be as tight as you can make it. Shimano puts a little tape guide on new FDs for this purpose. Also the cage needs to be perfectly parallel with the rings. This is tough to eyeball as the cage bends in at the front. I generally pull the cage out manually and eyeball it from above to ensure it's directly in line with the rings prior to attaching the shift cable.
2. The chain should just barely avoid rubbing the cage when it's on the largest (innermost) rear cog / small ring combo. Adjust the stop screw to ensure that there's no room left at all.
3. If all else fails, consider going back to Shimano rings. If you don't have any, this is an expensive option but I've found that the OEM rings just work better. The good news is that chainrings last essentially forever as far as I can tell.
Lots of shops don't do this right.
01-06-14, 05:56 PM
#107
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If you don't mind me suggesting, go into this with the mindset of "problem solving" vs "adjusting". There may very well be a problem with one or more parts of your system that would negate any adjusting efforts.
Having experienced a few of the same issues with my most recent build, if I were addressing them again I would progress as follows:
- Place frame in trainer
- Remove chain from inner ring and drape over BB
- While rotating crank inspect each and every tooth of both rings for any misalignment or damage. If you can see it with the naked eye, it's significant enough to have a very negative impact on your shifting and chain performance.
- Examine front derailluer for any bends or damage. If the derailleur was initially set to the recommended 1-3mm clearance, it would be almost impossible for the chain to have dropped to the outside without bending the outer derailleur plate upward in order to escape. A bent derailluer is not a death sentance. But, further attempts at adjustment are somewhat futile until you either straighten it or replace it.
- Then proceed with Shimano's adjustment procedure as previous linked. Paying close attention to clearances and tolerances. Recognizing that they do spec some contact or 0 .0 clearance points. And, paying attention to the fact that the cable slack they build into the system with holding the cable away from the frame while securing it, is actually important.
You can fix this. If you find that the derailleur is bent, don't hesitate to take a couple pairs of needle nose pliers to it. It's already not right. The worst you could do is make it even more so. I had to do a bit of straightening to the one I inherited from a junior racer who had obviously suffered a couple "issues". It's important that the top plates are level and that the outer plate is plumb and parrallel to the inner.
Have fun. Enjoy learning how it works. Don't be afraid to experiment. What you've got right now is unacceptable.
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01-06-14, 06:06 PM
#108
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Ok, thanks for the advice. I will go down to the garage in a few minutes and work out my shifting problems.
Here is the bigger problem. I dont have much energy to explain but the Venge deal fell through the cracks. The amazing deal was too good to be true and they ended up telling me they couldn't sell it for that cheap. I was basically getting a pretty hefty discount on a brand new bike and the spesh rep. was not happy with it. It was actually an order mistake.
Now my other option is to go for a Felt AR1 framset at MSRP but with a bunch of freebie stuff (saddle, handlebars, fit etc) that should kind of compensate for what happened. I like the AR frame and it is supposed to be one heck of a bike. To be honest I am very disappointed and I think I might just go pick up the Dura Ace group and ship it back.
Opinions? I know this thread has become an instant failure (besides the mechanical advice)... not my fault I am actually very sad.
Here is the bigger problem. I dont have much energy to explain but the Venge deal fell through the cracks. The amazing deal was too good to be true and they ended up telling me they couldn't sell it for that cheap. I was basically getting a pretty hefty discount on a brand new bike and the spesh rep. was not happy with it. It was actually an order mistake.
Now my other option is to go for a Felt AR1 framset at MSRP but with a bunch of freebie stuff (saddle, handlebars, fit etc) that should kind of compensate for what happened. I like the AR frame and it is supposed to be one heck of a bike. To be honest I am very disappointed and I think I might just go pick up the Dura Ace group and ship it back.
Opinions? I know this thread has become an instant failure (besides the mechanical advice)... not my fault I am actually very sad.
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01-06-14, 06:10 PM
#109
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That's pretty lame of the bike shop and specialized to do this after the deal has been worked. Time to find another LBS if they treat you like that.
The felt's are very nice, I'm partial to the Cervelo S models tho. Get the LBS to give you a felt AR FRD frame set at cost, felt says it's their top line aero frame.
The felt's are very nice, I'm partial to the Cervelo S models tho. Get the LBS to give you a felt AR FRD frame set at cost, felt says it's their top line aero frame.
Ok, thanks for the advice. I will go down to the garage in a few minutes and work out my shifting problems.
Here is the bigger problem. I dont have much energy to explain but the Venge deal fell through the cracks. The amazing deal was too good to be true and they ended up telling me they couldn't sell it for that cheap. I was basically getting a pretty hefty discount on a brand new bike and the spesh rep. was not happy with it. It was actually an order mistake.
Now my other option is to go for a Felt AR1 framset at MSRP but with a bunch of freebie stuff (saddle, handlebars, fit etc) that should kind of compensate for what happened. I like the AR frame and it is supposed to be one heck of a bike. To be honest I am very disappointed and I think I might just go pick up the Dura Ace group and ship it back.
Opinions? I know this thread has become an instant failure (besides the mechanical advice)... not my fault I am actually very sad.
Here is the bigger problem. I dont have much energy to explain but the Venge deal fell through the cracks. The amazing deal was too good to be true and they ended up telling me they couldn't sell it for that cheap. I was basically getting a pretty hefty discount on a brand new bike and the spesh rep. was not happy with it. It was actually an order mistake.
Now my other option is to go for a Felt AR1 framset at MSRP but with a bunch of freebie stuff (saddle, handlebars, fit etc) that should kind of compensate for what happened. I like the AR frame and it is supposed to be one heck of a bike. To be honest I am very disappointed and I think I might just go pick up the Dura Ace group and ship it back.
Opinions? I know this thread has become an instant failure (besides the mechanical advice)... not my fault I am actually very sad.
01-06-14, 06:12 PM
#110
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That's pretty lame of the bike shop and specialized to do this after the deal has been worked. Time to find another LBS if they treat you like that.
The felt's are very nice, I'm partial to the Cervelo S models tho. Get the LBS to give you a felt AR FRD frame set at cost, felt says it's their top line aero frame.
The felt's are very nice, I'm partial to the Cervelo S models tho. Get the LBS to give you a felt AR FRD frame set at cost, felt says it's their top line aero frame.
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01-06-14, 06:14 PM
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01-06-14, 06:16 PM
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01-06-14, 06:18 PM
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A real conundrum, certainly the felt ar would make a nice bike.
Curious as to what bad you've heard on the S5? As it's on my short list of next bike along with the felt ar
Curious as to what bad you've heard on the S5? As it's on my short list of next bike along with the felt ar
01-06-14, 07:03 PM
#115
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Preferably. Im pretty sure the AR is better, the bling factor decreases considerable though. Might wait for the new venge.
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01-06-14, 09:20 PM
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The new S3 sounds like a good bike and the Noah looks good but none of the two give me the goosebumps...
How about this? Now I am just trying to get the best value for $$$
This Cannondale Evo Hi Mod. I know, another cannondale but they are superbe bikes and nobody can deny that. Specially considering that it will be a full race bike.
Stupid Q. does it fit the DA BB?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-20...item485ef1e44e
How about this? Now I am just trying to get the best value for $$$
This Cannondale Evo Hi Mod. I know, another cannondale but they are superbe bikes and nobody can deny that. Specially considering that it will be a full race bike.
Stupid Q. does it fit the DA BB?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-20...item485ef1e44e
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01-06-14, 09:22 PM
#119
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I have the same bike on order (except it's in the team color). It's a great bike and I can't wait to get it. It uses BB30, so the crank you ordered for the venge should fit it.
01-06-14, 09:25 PM
#120
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Did you order the frame set or the complete bike? I am not sure what is a good price to pay, but considering it is on par with an Sworks tarmac I'd say it is fair.
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01-06-14, 09:30 PM
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I ordered the frame set. I have a SL4 (non-sworks) Tarmac now that I put Dura Ace 9000 on a few months ago and will be swapping all the components over to the Supersix. The Supersix retails for $3,500, so you would be saving some off retail with buying it online. I bet you could talk a bike shop down to a similar price and you'd get the peace of mind of buying from a bike shop where you could take it for warranty service if needed versus online.
01-06-14, 10:19 PM
#122
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I ordered the frame set. I have a SL4 (non-sworks) Tarmac now that I put Dura Ace 9000 on a few months ago and will be swapping all the components over to the Supersix. The Supersix retails for $3,500, so you would be saving some off retail with buying it online. I bet you could talk a bike shop down to a similar price and you'd get the peace of mind of buying from a bike shop where you could take it for warranty service if needed versus online.
I have to say still pretty bummed. I know there are far worse things in life but I cannot comprehend it yet. I had already paid for the Zipp wheels and the frame. Ended up getting a refund for $5k just like that... WTF... Not sure if I should just hold on to the Dura Ace groupset and get something else down the road. Of course I can always pay up and get the frame at a decent price but then I would feel robbed of my dignity.
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01-06-14, 11:22 PM
#123
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what about something complete like this, already routeed for DI2, just swap out to 9000 series and sell the take offs, personalize cockpit and add wheels
https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com...d-179813-1.htm
this one comes with $2k vision 1250gr wheels, Hollowtechs and Green REDs https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com...g-178852-1.htm
Personally I wouldn't buy a bike/frame of that much cash on ebay, no warranty and I'd rather pay the few hundred bucks difference at my LBS.
https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com...d-179813-1.htm
this one comes with $2k vision 1250gr wheels, Hollowtechs and Green REDs https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com...g-178852-1.htm
Personally I wouldn't buy a bike/frame of that much cash on ebay, no warranty and I'd rather pay the few hundred bucks difference at my LBS.
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01-06-14, 11:36 PM
#124
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what about something complete like this, already routeed for DI2, just swap out to 9000 series and sell the take offs, personalize cockpit and add wheels
https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com...d-179813-1.htm
this one comes with $2k vision 1250gr wheels, Hollowtechs and Green REDs https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com...g-178852-1.htm
Personally I wouldn't buy a bike/frame of that much cash on ebay, no warranty and I'd rather pay the few hundred bucks difference at my LBS.
https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com...d-179813-1.htm
this one comes with $2k vision 1250gr wheels, Hollowtechs and Green REDs https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com...g-178852-1.htm
Personally I wouldn't buy a bike/frame of that much cash on ebay, no warranty and I'd rather pay the few hundred bucks difference at my LBS.
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01-06-14, 11:37 PM
#125
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Does the Venge have to be S-Works? Because you could always look for a deal on a "lesser" Venge complete bike and install your components (and sell the removed stuff.) I think it's easier to get deals on complete bike rather than frames. All Venge frames are 10r carbon so you'd still be getting a nice Expert level frame even with the least expensive Venge (minus the S-Works bling factor of course.)