maroon

I recently bought a Windsor Wellington 3.0 from BD (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ington3_IX.htm). It seemed like a great deal at only $350 and my local bike guy even offered me to build it for $20 (he probably knew I'd be back spendin $$ in repairs over time haha). The rear derailleur is on-point and works great! However, the Shimano front deraileur isnt able to shift thru all the gears...he tried to adjust it for over half an hour and nothing. Right now its able to shift to two cogs but not the inner ring. Anyone encountered a similar scenario and know what I could do? We tried adjusting every part of the derailleur and its definitely not an adjustment issue. The bike as it came is a 3x8 configuration. I am open to upgrading the front derailleur if that is indeed the problem. Anyone know what options I have?

canam73

It's hard to say without seeing it, but FDs are pretty simple devices. They don't break very often and there isn't that much difference between the expensive ones and the cheap ones (Sram Yaw exluded).

My best advice would be to pull the old cable, and then follow the shimano or Park tool website instructions for setting an FD using a new cable and making sure your housing isn't pinched.

MagicHour

This might help, great front derailleur set up tips, sounds like it could be tension related. Check everything before throwing in the towel.
https://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Front...w-To_3775.html

• Check cable tension?
• Undo cable and try lubing inner cable inside housing near shifter - use something like tri flow or Boeshield T9 etc.
• Also check plastic cable guide below bottom bracket, put a drop of lube there as well.

If your cable tension is too high, this can limit the derailleur’s inward travel (towards the bike frame). In this case, you might think that the low limit screw is threaded in too far – you’re trying to move the cage further to the left. If the cable tension is high enough, you can unthread that lower limit screw all day long, and the cage isn’t going to move any further left; you’ve created an effective ‘stop’ with the tension. This is why we set the derailleur’s position and inner limit before setting cable tension. If you’re adjusting a low limit on a bike that already had the cable cinched down, just understand this: turning the limit screw clockwise will reduce cable tension, and turning the limit screw counterclockwise will increase cable tension.

maroon

It was checked by the lbs and it seemed they told me the high and low screws couldn't sway enough to get to the inner cog. They said the front derailer is restricted to get to the inner cog because doing so would hit the frame. They claim it's definitely not a cable tension issue

lenny866

contact bikes direct

canam73

Can you post a pic? Any chance they put a 2 ring FD on instead a triple?

rpenmanparker 

Or a wide BB spindle.

WhyFi

This was your local bike guy that set it up? If so, I'd look for another bike guy. It's an FD - either he should be able to set it up or he should be able to tell you how it's broken. It's not hard. In fact, I'd encourage you to just disconnect it and give it a fresh try by yourself, following Shimano's instructions - https://www.shimano.com/media/techdoc...9830686309.pdf