Chi_Z

My CAAD10 clearly has BB30 labeled on the frame. But the actual BB is BSA threaded.
Can the BSA tread be removed? if so what tool do I need.
I have a BB30 Quarq crankset I want to install. I just assumed that all CAAD10 is BB30. Didn't see this coming.

Any help is appreciated

qcpmsame 

Someone modified your CAAD 10, either an adapter or they went to a lot of trouble grafting in threaded inserts to the BB30. It looks as if they epoxied in a BB30 to BSA adapter. What crank set/bottom bracket was in the BB if I may ask you?

Bill

Nagrom_

They pressed a BSA sleeve into it. Like so: https://www.fullspeedahead.com/produc...D-ADAPTER-68MM


They can be pressed back out. There is a small risk of warping the BB shell, so have a competent mechanic do the job.

Homebrew01

Who ever sold it to you should have said something like "This frame has an English threaded BB adapter (glued/epoxied/loctited) in the BB30 BB shell" The removal method probably depends on what they used.

Thread in a garbage cup and whack it sideways with a big hammer ??

Chi_Z

the old crankset was sram force gxp with bsa gxp BB.
do you guys think this tread adapter can be removed?

Nagrom_

Read my post above.

qcpmsame 

Try what Nagrom suggested, it seems he is familiar and posted you a link about the adapter. The epoxy's strength is my only question, breaking the shell isn't out of the realm of possibility if it is really strong epoxy, I have seen some epoxies for metals that are strong enough to do this. Pressing it out with a good press and machinist that knows what they are doing should be doable, though. Best of luck, how about letting us know what happens with this, please.

Bill

Chi_Z

looks like i am better off just sell my bb30 quarq and get a gxp one. i don't know why i never looked at the bb before i brought the quarq. Some people suggested that the FSA adaptor is kind of a permanent solution

Nagrom_

It's really not that big of a deal...
Loctite 609 is what is supposed to be used per the instructions. This isn't strong stuff. It's a press fit bearing retainer.



This is a 5 minute job at a quality bike shop, not the job for a machinist. The same tools used to remove/install BB30 bearings are what are used to install/remove the sleeve.

qcpmsame 

Agreed with Nagrom, as long as it is the Loctite 609 used to install the adapter. That black/dark gray color in the pictures looks like an epoxy, not Loctite 609, but that is a guess. Nagrom has the right idea, see your LBS to get it pressed out, they will know if an epoxy that could ruin something was used from their experience. I tend to be overly cautious because of my profession and work in metals failure analysis as well as inspecting epoxied anchors for attaching structural steel shapes. As I asked, please keep us up on what you find and how things go.

Bill

rpenmanparker 

Yes and no. The bb30 BB will be stiffer and lighter not to mention avoiding the added weight of the threaded adapter. If it will come out uneventfully, that would be the best bet.

Campag4life

Pretty much what the other guys said Chi. Don't sell your BB30 Quarq 'yet'. First do some homework and back track to the seller of the frame and find out if you can what he used to cement the BSA sleeve in place. If its low shear strength epoxy, some low heat...use a heat gun to soften the bond and press the sleeve out. Same way if Loctite 609 was used....light heat and press. Also...contact FSA and find out if the sleeve is directional. It normally will get pushed in from one direction per the instructions, either from drive side or non drive side i.e. left side of the frame. Important to know this if pushing it out. Do not use hammer force...use a press with a cup threaded in one side but not threaded flush/stood away from the BB shell for clearance to laterally displace.

Once pressed out, your BB30 bores maybe slightly expanded but this is no big deal for BB30 bearings if you properly apply Loctite to the bearings to hold them in place. So, this is what I would try first. No reason to sell your BB30 crank. BB30 bearings will tolerate BB30 bores even with some clearance and slip fit with the use of Loctite. Worse case, is you have to push the BSA sleeve back in if the bores are damaged but they shouldn't be.

PS: and for those DA crank lovers and count me among DA crank loyalists, no reason to fret with Wheel Mfg adapters any more if you have a BB/PF30 frame.. Sweetest BSA conversion I have seen to either BB30/PF30 is from TriPeak as follows. Nylon inserts protect both BB30 alloy bores and PF30 carbon shell:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg28A8ZHqXA

Nagrom_

That's an elegant solution.

Do you have first hand experience with the product?

qcpmsame 

Very nice adapter solution there, As said, elegant way to do the process without pressing or sloppy means. Thanks for the link and heads up.

Bill

SirHustlerEsq

My BB30-English adapter pressed in from the drive side. Just make sure that if you do this at home, you use an inner and outer die so you don't bend the BB. 603 is a fairly weak bearing compound.

SirHustlerEsq

The Praxis adapters are super-nice too.

Chi_Z

i went to a bike shop today, they say they can remove the adapter with a machine press with ease. I hope they know what they are doing. Too bad they don't have any BB30 BB in stock. Have to wait a few days

never_recover

Edit: sorry I see you already left your bike to the shop... so my opinion is now irrelevant, just ignore what I said..



I'll be the contrarian and suggest you keep the BSA adapter and get a BSA crankset, your post clearly make it sound like you have been completely satisfied with it and the advantages of BB30 are marginal (at best)... What you risk is to get the dreaded creaking sounds if the BB is any less than perfectly installed..

There's a reason Shimano doesn't do a BB30 crankset and it's not only because of the NIH (not invented here) syndrome... If Shimano engineers believed that pressed-in BBs are a good idea they would have done their own version and fix the existing issues while they're at it (just like they did with Octalink vs. Isis)...

And a shop that can remove a pressed sleeve with ease (makes it sound like they do this routinely) but does not have a BB on hand.. bad smell..

elcruxio

Ok first, shimano has a pressfit. they saw wise to create their own standard but whatevs.

second. A BB30 is like the easiest bb to install and the cure for creaking has been known for years. People get creaking due to bad mechanics or bad factory assembly. but loctite 609 or 641 will take care of the problem. Other than the need for loctite I really can't see a problem with it

Nagrom_

Order angular contact bearings. The part number is 71806. Enduro.

Chi_Z

Thanks for the suggestion, I am glad I didn't leave my bike to the shop. Looks like my best option is to order the Enduro bearings myself and bring to a shop that has BB30 in stock. I too find it hard to believe that a shop who claims they service BB30 alot do not have them in stock

Nagrom_

They shouldn't cost you more than 25 for the pair shipped. They're a substantial upgrade to stock. They alleviate a lot of BB30 issues too, they even last longer too.

Campag4life

I do not. Just makes a lot of sense. May find out though. Thinking about buying a Specialized Sworks framset and build with Di2 which has their narrow version of PF30 and would opt for something like this...or go Praxis to mount a DA crank. As a sidenote, I believe it is quite possible to use a BSA sleeve like the OP has with PF30 + delrin bushings that say come with most PF30 bikes. You could epoxy a BSA sleeve like the FSA sleeve in the OP's bike right to the 42mm ID of the Delrin bushings pushed into a 46mm ID PF30 frameset. This basically replicates what you see in the youtube video...BB30 sleeve is isolated with two plastic sleeves and of course the captured DA like BB keeps the sleeve from laterally displacing. This is better than pressing a metal sleeve directly into either a BB30 (like OP) or PF30 frame...and of course most that use BSA sleeves know a threaded crank with DA like BB tends to be less problematic than maintaining BB30 bearings...for the simple reason a DA style BB captures the bearings and they can't squirm and creak.

Campag4life

I believe what you wrote is a pretty valid counterpoint and not widely understood by many. But now Shimano because of industry pressure has relented and has created a Press Fit BB for their DA crank, for the record...for wide shell press fit applications that are compatible with the long spindle length normally suited for external bearings. So they have stepped up. No they didn't change their 24mm spindle OD, nor should they. I agree that 99.99% of all riders, couldn't tell the difference between DA and any 30mm BB30 crank....many would prefer in fact the shift performance of DA because of their rigid ring design.

Campag4life

True. But let's say bad mechanics are the norm and not the exception. Proof is...just look at some youtube videos of bike repairs....more hacks than talented wrenches. For those, a threaded BB is easier to set up. But I agree, nothing wrong with BB30...simple in its essence, provided it is installed properly..big if for many...and lots of hack shops that don't give a crap if your bike creaks.