Hi guys. I have a Specialized Roubaix SL4 Elite on order and I have a question about shifting. My last bike was a flat bar road bike and I would basically start off on the small sprocket on the front (where I pedal). Its a double not a triple. As I would pick up speed on flats I would go to the other Big front sprocket and then I would keep it there and just adjust the rear gears as needed. When I come to a stop I switch to the lower sprocket up at the front and go to the bigger sprocket as I take off again. Is that proper shifting? I've heard there is a technique your supposed to do, can you guys fill me in? Thanks.

I always make sure that I'm in a middle gear on the back before I shift the front.

Is that so it doesn't stretch the chain too much?

I shift willy nilly but I do try to avoid cross chaining (big-big or small-small) just out of habit.

I also shift the front to the smaller chainring when I come to a stop sign.

Once you get your bike and start riding it, you'll figure out what works for you pretty quickly.

Lingo: the "sprockets" up front are called chainrings, the ones in back are called cogs. Go figure.

If I'm shifting the front it is because I'm running out of gears in the back so shifting the back to the mid gears and then shifting the front usually puts me pretty close to where I want to be. The front will also shift smoother if the chain angle low.

Exactly.. And to avoid what's known as 'cross chaining' which means being in the big/hard ring up front and a big/easy ring in the back -- which puts unnecessary pressure on the chain and other equipment.

Cross-chaining can also cause the chain to pop off the cog it's on in the back and down to the next one due to this increased pressure (if, for instance, you're cross-chaining and then stand on the pedals and put more pressure on.) It's a good thing to avoid and makes your shifting experience much more reliable -- and prevents unnecessary chain wear, noise, etc.

I try to avoid the big-big and small-small combinations, but other than that, they're all fair game.

It really depends on terrain. I spend most of my time on the small ring if it is rolling. On flats, or gentle descents, or tailwinds, if I get up to seven or eight on the cassette, I drop two then immediately go to the big ring. If I come up to a rise I immediately get back to the small ring if the grade changes pretty quickly, 'cause I may continue dropping all the way to bottom gear, where as a little bit clyde, I'll be for any thing 5% and greater. If the grade increases gradually, to say 2-3%, I'll shift down on the cassette until 2 or 3, then shift two or three up on the cassette and drop to the small ring.

As I mentioned being a Clyde, I shift quite a bit.

There's no 'correct' way to start from a stop sign. Personally, I would never take it out of the big ring if that's what I was riding in. I just stand up for a while until I'm up to speed. If you don't want to push harder from a stop there's no problem dropping down into the little ring up front and working your way through the gears either.

I only use the 54 tooth, never used the small chain-ring in my life.

I only use the little ring when I'm going up 25% grades.

Same here.

If I know I am going to be going on flats and/or downhill (ie. decent speed) I go to the big chainring sooner rather than later. If I know there are climbs and/or stops and/or headwinds coming, I will stay in the small chainring.

Work on your pre-ride nutrition, son.

Maybe I just don't trust the smoothness of my derailleurs, but I would never switch down to the little ring at a stop sign if I was expecting to be back in the big ring once I accelerated. I'll go to a big cog and cross chain as I start off, but then run down the cogs pretty quickly to whatever gear is right once I hit my stride. I seldom want to be going from the little chain ring to the big chain ring whilst I'm accelerating, the extra moment of hesitation just isn't conducive to acceleration - except maybe at the crest of a hill.

Don't over think it, just ride the bike.

I'm in the big ring up front 99% of the time based on the terrain that I ride. If I cross chain and go big/big for a few seconds while I pick up speed or go over a small hill, the bike will be ok.

The smaller cogs are generally more tightly spaced (one tooth difference),
while the larger end of the cassette has wider gaps.

While riding on the flat it can be better to be on the small cogs to keep your cadence consistent,
and on the hills the larger cogs will give more change per shift, to keep up with changing grade.

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