Took my fork out. Put it back. and this happened
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Took my fork out. Put it back. and this happened
So I took my fork out to take it to the shop. They did their thing and I put it back in and now I have this gap between the dust cap and the head tube. The silver you see are the sealed bearings. Is this a problem? If I remember correctly, the dust cap sat flush to the head tube before. Is there any way I can fix this if this is not normal?
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It's a potential problem.
When you're putting it back together, don't tighten the stem on the steerer until AFTER you've tightened the stem cap. As you tighten the stem cap, it loads the dust cap, spacers and stem, pulling them in snugly and eliminating the play. If the stem is already tightened, tightening the cap can not load the entire stack.
When you're putting it back together, don't tighten the stem on the steerer until AFTER you've tightened the stem cap. As you tighten the stem cap, it loads the dust cap, spacers and stem, pulling them in snugly and eliminating the play. If the stem is already tightened, tightening the cap can not load the entire stack.
#4
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I agree with WhyFi. Do what he says. That gap would annoy me too and would rectify it. I wouldn't ride it until I did, that's me.
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Yes, I do too. And I remember it took about 10 tries before I had put everything back together in the right order, and not upside down. If I wasn't so cheap I'd have professionals do all my bike work.
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i agree. there has to be a gap between the dust housing and the frame, otherwise there would be too much friction to work properly. all mine have a similar gap. some more, some less.
BTW, the OP, as far as i can tell, isn't complaining about a loose headset. but i could be wrong about the intent of the thread.
BTW, the OP, as far as i can tell, isn't complaining about a loose headset. but i could be wrong about the intent of the thread.
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i doubt it was flush with the head tube before. when i put my headset together when building, i needed to get micro-spacers to lift the top cap off the head tube.
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The other REMOTE possibility, which was true for me... is that they put too many spacers below the cover so it gaps now.
When I replaced my headset bearings the LBS ordered me the FSA Orbit Carbon rather than alu (I liked the carbon more anyway, they know me well enough) and the lip was smaller on the carbon cover, I installed it and found the cover came down completely flush with the head tube (friction when turning bars). I looked into the alu cover and noticed there was a think shim and a few ultra-thin shims which had stuck (tiny amount of grease) to the underside. When I installed the cover with those paper thin shims the cover sat perfectly above and no longer touched.
YMMV significantly. If the hoof prints don't lead you to this zebra, look for the horse and make sure you load the bearings in the headset before you tighten the stem.
When I replaced my headset bearings the LBS ordered me the FSA Orbit Carbon rather than alu (I liked the carbon more anyway, they know me well enough) and the lip was smaller on the carbon cover, I installed it and found the cover came down completely flush with the head tube (friction when turning bars). I looked into the alu cover and noticed there was a think shim and a few ultra-thin shims which had stuck (tiny amount of grease) to the underside. When I installed the cover with those paper thin shims the cover sat perfectly above and no longer touched.
YMMV significantly. If the hoof prints don't lead you to this zebra, look for the horse and make sure you load the bearings in the headset before you tighten the stem.
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It's a potential problem.
When you're putting it back together, don't tighten the stem on the steerer until AFTER you've tightened the stem cap. As you tighten the stem cap, it loads the dust cap, spacers and stem, pulling them in snugly and eliminating the play. If the stem is already tightened, tightening the cap can not load the entire stack.
When you're putting it back together, don't tighten the stem on the steerer until AFTER you've tightened the stem cap. As you tighten the stem cap, it loads the dust cap, spacers and stem, pulling them in snugly and eliminating the play. If the stem is already tightened, tightening the cap can not load the entire stack.
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So I took my fork out to take it to the shop. They did their thing and I put it back in and now I have this gap between the dust cap and the head tube. The silver you see are the sealed bearings. Is this a problem? If I remember correctly, the dust cap sat flush to the head tube before. Is there any way I can fix this if this is not normal?
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are you sure the bearings are in the right way?
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tip...
when i messed around with headset, i put each part onto a string. this way i don't worry abut which order and which way to replace. it is all kept together.
when i messed around with headset, i put each part onto a string. this way i don't worry abut which order and which way to replace. it is all kept together.
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coasting, few quotes are worthy of him, and of those, even fewer printable in a family forum......quote 3alarmer
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coasting, few quotes are worthy of him, and of those, even fewer printable in a family forum......quote 3alarmer
No @coasting, you should stay 100% as you are right now, don't change a thing....quote Heathpack
#17
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I second carefully managing things as they come off. Zip ties are good too, especially when replacing bearing carts, cassettes, pedals, etc, to keep the old one together. If I plan to put it back in I usually lay it out exactly as it came off - maintaining order, orientation, and L/R sidedness (where such things apply).
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You mean my technique of allowing stuff to fly off the bike, roll across the floor and under desks, shelves, and in the litter box, is not ideal?
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That gap definitely should not be there. I don't know what the hell some of these other people are thinking. Either the headset's not installed properly or the fork wasn't cut to the proper length for the amount/size of spacers you have.
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Threadless Headset Service
If you can't figure it out, take it back to the shop. At the very least you're going to get a lot of dirt in there, especially on a rainy day.
Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Threadless Headset Service
If you can't figure it out, take it back to the shop. At the very least you're going to get a lot of dirt in there, especially on a rainy day.
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In my original post about this.....I left the cable part out lol.
#21
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Also OP, if your steer tube was cut incorrectly either take it back or get a thin spacer and throw it above the stem to give the top cap something to press down on.
A bigger bottom spacer will place the stem bolts above the top of the tube and may mess up the steerer tube in the long run from the stem not being fully clamped up the tube.
A bigger bottom spacer will place the stem bolts above the top of the tube and may mess up the steerer tube in the long run from the stem not being fully clamped up the tube.