![]() |
Decal Design Feedback
2 Attachment(s)
Hi there, I am in the midst of a vintage restoration and designing some custom decals in p-shop that will be produced from a local vinyl printer. Just wondering what your opinion is toward these 2 general concepts, or if you recommend another design altogether. Any criticism is welcomed. :)
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=379158 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=379159 |
I like the top one, although the other one isn't bad. I'll give them a 9 and a 7.5 respectively.
|
Hmmm, Can't lose with either of those. Having said that I think I prefer the bottom one - just looks more streamlined and sharper to me; whereas while I dig the tricolor accents on the panels, it looks more common or expected or something to me, maybe? Splitting hairs though.
|
Originally Posted by BillyD
(Post 16742250)
I like the top one, although the other one isn't bad. I'll give them a 9 and a 7.5 respectively.
|
Top
|
Top looks more classic, bottom looks more "modern" so I'd say top.
|
Top, but i might reduce the typeface size a little (I'm being fussy).
|
You mentioned "vinyl printer", If they are indeed going to be printed, I would find a shop that will cut characters to shape, that are in turn applied with a removable, low-tack, carrier sheet. Obviously this rules out the multi-color first option via "printing". Apply the vinyls in individual colors if that is the look you decide upon; and specify 7 or 9 year premium grade vinyls in a 2mil thickness. Today, this type of material is available in matte finishes but is usually seen in a high gloss. Unfortunately, most shops use substandard vinyls these days to increase their bottom line and the print guy's inks are even less durable/stable. Sometimes they suggest a UV overlayment...the result is usually thick in dimension and lacking sharpness in the graphic. The cut vinyls used to be the norm...with the new print mediums; shops stock cheap white vinyl and even cheaper inks to do mostly large formats that don't require sharp details. Shop around, ask questions, and find an old school location that will provide you with a quality product that looks good up close. Another option would be to find a reputable pinstriper and have it done in paint. The old school sign shop can even provide you a computer cut stencil in a low-tack vinyl known as "paint-mask" (this will be white or yellow in color with the letters open in a bordered area), which your striper will apply to your frame and brush apply paint through. Sorry for the long explanation, but the whole print decal thing just leaves me cold since its become such a widespread art quality killer.
|
I prefer the top one, it looks more classic.
|
The classic look of the panels compliments the script font nicely.
|
Both are nice. I prefer to top one.
|
Bottom one, but just do the "A" on the fork, and the name on the downtube. I think a "less is more" approach would look the best.
|
Top one for sure. I had a 1973 Atala Competzione, and the first one is more authentic.
|
Bottom one for me, but, they both really look clean. Nice job.
|
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:25 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.