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Wheels: Is lighter weight advantageous, or not really noticeable?

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Old 07-29-14, 08:42 PM
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I'm just going to copy/paste my thoughts from the last time this came up -

Originally Posted by WhyFi
I've said it before in other wheel weight pissing contest threads, but I'll say it again because I'm stubborn and stupid - I trust that my perception (and that of others) that wheel weight makes a significant difference is correct... but I don't necessarily disagree with the naysayers that like the plop up graphs and equations showing that there's a very small difference in energy needed to accelerate rims of differing weights.

I think that I can stand with a foot in each camp because I think that the differences that we're feeling have more to do with centrifugal forces than linear acceleration. I know that when I'm really trying to jump, my bike gets lashed back and forth pretty good, leaning from one side to the other in quick succession. I also know from my extensive wheel building (4 wheels - woooo!) that if I spin a wheel while holding on to the axles, those sum*****es act like gyroscopes and don't take too kindly to changes in orientation. My theory is that heavier rims are more resistant to changes in orientation than lighter rim and that's the difference we're feeling when really jumping on a hard effort - we're feeling that the bike wants to stand upright and that it takes more effort be leaned over, which translates to feeling sluggish.

Have I done the math? **** no. Do I care to? **** no, but if you feel like it, by all means.
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Old 07-29-14, 09:09 PM
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It's more the quality of the build than how much it weighs, is it not? Just because a set of wheels total to 1,300 grams doesn't mean they ride better than a 1,700 gram set? And the quality of the tires you use also play a big role; again, not just how narrow, but the quality of the tire itself.
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Old 07-29-14, 09:12 PM
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I believe you have earned it. It is your attitude that shaped you so well.

Originally Posted by Dreww10
At 6'1 and 174 lbs. with a 31-32 waist and arms thinner than I'd prefer, I'm already as light as an amateur cyclist probably should be without looking sick. My wife has explicitly requested that I STOP losing so much weight. So at this point, any weight that I'm going to lose will have to be the bike and not me.
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Old 07-29-14, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Axiom
It's more the quality of the build than how much it weighs, is it not? Just because a set of wheels total to 1,300 grams doesn't mean they ride better than a 1,700 gram set? And the quality of the tires you use also play a big role; again, not just how narrow, but the quality of the tire itself.
What does quality of the build mean? We are only talking here about decent wheels. A bad build will maybe result in wheels that are often out of true or that break spokes after a year or two, but you can't tell much difference between equal weight wheels in the way they accelerate and steer. Assuming the necessary minimum spoke tension to not be slack and similar rim and hub weights, of course.
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Old 07-29-14, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Axiom
It's more the quality of the build than how much it weighs, is it not? Just because a set of wheels total to 1,300 grams doesn't mean they ride better than a 1,700 gram set? And the quality of the tires you use also play a big role; again, not just how narrow, but the quality of the tire itself.
I won't argue that, however, given that I've only ridden two sets of wheels, ever, I can't really say I have any experience. I'm sure not all hubs are created equal, I've just never ridden a wheel set with "good" hubs.

I've heard some good things about the Ksyrium wheels, although they're not a big jump from what I have. Even looked into the 38mm Far Sports wheels, as they're light and cheap, but I don't see them holding up to tens of thousands of training miles and still rolling like a champ years later. What I need is a solid all-around wheelset. I'm hoping to do some road racing in the next year or so, but my budget won't allow for a training set and a racing set. Like I said, I don't feel that the lack of some carbon tubulars that all racers think they need is really going to hold me back. Something that spins well, and I'll find a way to make up the rest. Suggestions?
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Old 07-30-14, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
I've said it before in other wheel weight pissing contest threads, but I'll say it again because I'm stubborn and stupid - I trust that my perception (and that of others) that wheel weight makes a significant difference is correct... but I don't necessarily disagree with the naysayers that like the plop up graphs and equations showing that there's a very small difference in energy needed to accelerate rims of differing weights.

I think that I can stand with a foot in each camp because I think that the differences that we're feeling have more to do with centrifugal forces than linear acceleration. I know that when I'm really trying to jump, my bike gets lashed back and forth pretty good, leaning from one side to the other in quick succession. I also know from my extensive wheel building (4 wheels - woooo!) that if I spin a wheel while holding on to the axles, those sum*****es act like gyroscopes and don't take too kindly to changes in orientation. My theory is that heavier rims are more resistant to changes in orientation than lighter rim and that's the difference we're feeling when really jumping on a hard effort - we're feeling that the bike wants to stand upright and that it takes more effort be leaned over, which translates to feeling sluggish.

Have I done the math? **** no. Do I care to? **** no, but if you feel like it, by all means.
No math needed. Centrifugal force is fictitious so your entire premise is most be re-thought.
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Old 07-30-14, 07:35 AM
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Just did a wheel upgrade to my MTB, which I bet is going to be a small, but noticeable advantage.

Bike came with Veulta Pro MTB wheel that weigh around 2200 grams, and WTB Prowler, tubed tires.

Upgraded to IBIS 928 wheels, with Racing Ralphs tubeless tires. Also went to a lighter 1090 cassette, from a 1070.

Actual weight savings was 1457 grams, or over 3lbs.

I was pleasantly surprised given that listed weights would suggest a smaller difference.

My bet is 3lbs will be a small, but noticeable difference.
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Old 07-30-14, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by canam73
No math needed. Centrifugal force is fictitious so your entire premise is most be re-thought.
Yeah, yeah - whatever. Insert whatever the proper term is for the force that keeps a gyroscope upright (angular momentum?). Geez, the outcome is always surprising when you give a 41er the choice to either examine the merit of the thoughts behind the words or to be a supercilious prick and concentrate lexicon shortcomings.
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Old 07-30-14, 08:55 AM
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Old 07-30-14, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
Yeah, yeah - whatever. Insert whatever the proper term is for the force that keeps a gyroscope upright (angular momentum?). Geez, the outcome is always surprising when you give a 41er the choice to either examine the merit of the thoughts behind the words or to be a supercilious prick and concentrate lexicon shortcomings.
There was no merit to be examined. Only feelings, and those are all your own.
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Old 07-30-14, 09:19 AM
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We all notice obvious improvement after upgrading to a high end bike. The problem is how to quantify it. Let's get the best of the best, Cervelo P5, and it claims "...resulting in crucial time savings of ~30 seconds in a 40-kilometre race."

How fast do they go on a time trial? 30mph minimum. 30 seconds is about 1% improvement of the total time.

P5 Triathlon and Time Trial Bike - Cervélo

How much does aerodynamics contribute to the 1%?
How much does better wheels contribute to the 1%?

Let's say half and half, but I really think it is 10:1 or 20:1.

So, better wheels give you 0.5% improvement and if you are at 20mph, it's about 0.1mph.

Can you perceive it as huge improvement? Of course you can and you will. It guarantees you will always beat the old you by a good margin at the end of a 10 miles sprint and it is a decided win by 200 feet. But if you are expecting 1mph, that is just perception.
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Old 07-30-14, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
I'm just going to copy/paste my thoughts from the last time this came up -
Problem is that your perceptions are misleading you, and spinning the wheels in your hands has little to do with how they actually behave on a bicycle. When you're lashing the bike around in a sprint, as you put it, you are not simply tilting them side to side as you would in your hands! They are moving forward, hopefully relatively quickly, so they are actually following an oscillating path. Wheels on a bicycle offer no appreciable resistance to steering input except as a consequence of the front-end geometry, rather than angular momentum.

No one will disagree with you that light wheels can feel quite different from heavy wheels, but that doesn't translate to the reduction in rotating weight being important. Lighter weight overall, yes, that's meaningful in the same way that reduced weight anywhere is meaningful. But where the weight comes from doesn't matter. What you choose to believe about the physics in play is irrelevant, reality is what matters.
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Old 07-30-14, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by grolby
Problem is that your perceptions are misleading you, and spinning the wheels in your hands has little to do with how they actually behave on a bicycle. When you're lashing the bike around in a sprint, as you put it, you are not simply tilting them side to side as you would in your hands! They are moving forward, hopefully relatively quickly, so they are actually following an oscillating path. Wheels on a bicycle offer no appreciable resistance to steering input except as a consequence of the front-end geometry, rather than angular momentum.

No one will disagree with you that light wheels can feel quite different from heavy wheels, but that doesn't translate to the reduction in rotating weight being important. Lighter weight overall, yes, that's meaningful in the same way that reduced weight anywhere is meaningful. But where the weight comes from doesn't matter. What you choose to believe about the physics in play is irrelevant, reality is what matters.
No, no. Feelings matter. I learned that in my college breadth requirement psych class.
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Old 07-30-14, 10:49 AM
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I think the numbers I came up with, 0.1mph, really hurt the feelings. In another way, it can indeed lead to 1mph advantage. So, the way is that you just keep up with the old you saving a couple of watts along the way and explode by 1mph in the last minute and you will win by about 25 meters beautifully.

Originally Posted by path4
We all notice obvious improvement after upgrading to a high end bike. The problem is how to quantify it. Let's get the best of the best, Cervelo P5, and it claims "...resulting in crucial time savings of ~30 seconds in a 40-kilometre race."

How fast do they go on a time trial? 30mph minimum. 30 seconds is about 1% improvement of the total time.

P5 Triathlon and Time Trial Bike - Cervélo

How much does aerodynamics contribute to the 1%?
How much does better wheels contribute to the 1%?

Let's say half and half, but I really think it is 10:1 or 20:1.

So, better wheels give you 0.5% improvement and if you are at 20mph, it's about 0.1mph.

Can you perceive it as huge improvement? Of course you can and you will. It guarantees you will always beat the old you by a good margin at the end of a 10 miles sprint and it is a decided win by 200 feet. But if you are expecting 1mph, that is just perception.
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Old 07-30-14, 02:12 PM
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Old 07-30-14, 03:41 PM
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Carbon/Aero wheels are very nice, but a while ago certain things had me rethinking the whole wheel situation. Years ago when carbon wheels weren't even around they rode aluminum wheels in the TdF, correct? Hell, even now some teams use aluminum wheels for the cobbles and rougher areas. Finding a very wellbuilt set of aluminum rims definitely won't hinder someones performance at a noticeable level, although mentally it might. The Bontrager Race X Lite are supposed to be great all-around wheels. And my favorite (because of my size) Mavic CXP22 with Ultegra hubs and DT swiss spokes. They weighed in at 1,900 grams or so but were bomb proof.

Oh, and the Mavic Cosmic Carbone SL (aluminum with carbon fairing) are pretty damn solid wheels as well. Held up some rough riding at 280lbs.

Originally Posted by Dreww10
I won't argue that, however, given that I've only ridden two sets of wheels, ever, I can't really say I have any experience. I'm sure not all hubs are created equal, I've just never ridden a wheel set with "good" hubs.

I've heard some good things about the Ksyrium wheels, although they're not a big jump from what I have. Even looked into the 38mm Far Sports wheels, as they're light and cheap, but I don't see them holding up to tens of thousands of training miles and still rolling like a champ years later. What I need is a solid all-around wheelset. I'm hoping to do some road racing in the next year or so, but my budget won't allow for a training set and a racing set. Like I said, I don't feel that the lack of some carbon tubulars that all racers think they need is really going to hold me back. Something that spins well, and I'll find a way to make up the rest. Suggestions?

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Old 07-30-14, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Axiom
Years ago when carbon wheels weren't even around they rode aluminum wheels in the TdF, correct? Hell, even now some teams use aluminum wheels for the cobbles and rougher areas.
Aluminum in the peloton? Ancient history. The last alu rim used regularly was the Ambrosio Nemesis - on cobble stages such as PR. No more. Here is a handy guide as to what is being used when money is on the line:
  • Tubulars
  • Carbon.

That is all.

I have many wheelsets going back decades. Unless I'm simply travelling at sustained speeds, I find a noticable difference between light (<1,300g) and heavy (>1,800g) wheelsets. Even if I am riding an old steel bike, its performance is transformed with a lightweight wheelset. Lower rotating weight is the biggest single improvement one can make to the performance of a bike.

Tubulars and clinchers... there is no overlap in performance. Every one of my tubular wheelsets, including those with ancient alu training rims and 40-year old Campy thread-on hubs are superior to every clincher wheelset that I own, no matter how the latter cost. The term: 'performance clinchers' is an oxymoron.

Carbon is revolutionary. I do not think that the braking will ever be comparible, but it is close. Yes, you can now build carbon clinchers that approach the weights of the older alu tubular wheels. But carbon now allows you to build even lighter and stronger tubular rims. The performance gap has actually widened, since there is less overheating concern with tubulars.
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Old 07-30-14, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
I have many wheelsets going back decades. Unless I'm simply travelling at sustained speeds, I find a noticable difference between light (<1,300g) and heavy (>1,800g) wheelsets. Even if I am riding an old steel bike, its performance is transformed with a lightweight wheelset. Lower rotating weight is the biggest single improvement one can make to the performance of a bike.
I agree with this. I can feel the weight difference of that magnitude quite clearly.
Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
Tubulars and clinchers... there is no overlap in performance. Every one of my tubular wheelsets, including those with ancient alu training rims and 40-year old Campy thread-on hubs are superior to every clincher wheelset that I own, no matter how the latter cost. The term: 'performance clinchers' is an oxymoron.
To me this is way exaggerated. It is possible for every tubular wheel to be better than every COMPARABLE clincher wheel, sure. But so much better that it really matters to someone no getting their gear for free and maintained by a pro mechanic also for free? Not even close. I can't feel it, and I have tried many, many times. So much better that even the worst tubular wheel is better than the best clincher wheel? That is just plain ridiculous. Especially considering the progress in clincher and especially tubeless tires. You're reaching here, Dave. It just ain't so.
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Old 07-30-14, 07:13 PM
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I you ride long climbs you will notice the difference. Also accelerating from a stop. Otherwise probably not.
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Old 07-31-14, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
I have many wheelsets going back decades. Unless I'm simply travelling at sustained speeds, I find a noticable difference between light (<1,300g) and heavy (>1,800g) wheelsets. Even if I am riding an old steel bike, its performance is transformed with a lightweight wheelset. Lower rotating weight is the biggest single improvement one can make to the performance of a bike.

Tubulars and clinchers... there is no overlap in performance. Every one of my tubular wheelsets, including those with ancient alu training rims and 40-year old Campy thread-on hubs are superior to every clincher wheelset that I own, no matter how the latter cost. The term: 'performance clinchers' is an oxymoron.
Just so you know, Tony Martin won the World TT Championships on clinchers. If the difference was as big as you say, wouldn't he have picked tubulars instead, since his livelihood depends on it.
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Old 07-31-14, 01:55 AM
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A good set of lightweight carbon wheels are indeed noticeable, especially on climbs and instant acceleration. I didn't really believe it myself until I put on a pair of tubular Zipp 202s. Even an extended climb of 12% grades aren't as brutal as before, and they go from being something you dread to something you look forward to. That was the biggest difference for me.

Previously I had a set of Mavic Ksyrium SLRs. They were light for clinchers but whenever I ride these wheels they feel like a bag of bricks.
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Old 07-31-14, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
To me this is way exaggerated. So much better that even the worst tubular wheel is better than the best clincher wheel? That is just plain ridiculous. Especially considering the progress in clincher and especially tubeless tires. You're reaching here, Dave. It just ain't so.
My original statement was correct. Last night I looked up at the roof of my garage, which bristles with dozens of wheelsets. The best of the clinchers.... Lessee.. Campagnolo Shamals, Campy Eurus, Fulcrum stuff, and likely the lightest of all of them, Sun Ringle Accelerators. And high-end Mavic from MA2s to Open Pros to Cosmic/Cosmos and newer.

The worst tubulars: mid-range Shimano (Uniglide!) hubs with 36 crappy spokes and some no-name alu rim. Obtained free at a yard sale.

This wheelset is lighter than any of clinchers. 300 gram tubular rims are impossible to duplicate in clinchers.

Clincher rims need two strong structures to hold the bead of the tire in place, and do double-duty as the braking surface. This is the fundamental handicap in the technology. This is why there is no overlap in performance.
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Old 07-31-14, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ConGrUenCy
Just so you know, Tony Martin won the World TT Championships on clinchers. If the difference was as big as you say, wouldn't he have picked tubulars instead, since his livelihood depends on it.
OK. A flat time trial. I have heard here may be some slight rolling resistance benefits to some clinchers. This advantage diminishes if you carefully select your tubular rim cement.

And as demonstrated in this years TdF, Tony Martin can ride away from anyone.
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Old 07-31-14, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
to me that is a heavy set and a heavier set!
lol
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Old 07-31-14, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
Lower rotating weight is the biggest single improvement one can make to the performance of a bike.
As already stated numerous times, this is demonstrably false.
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