Bob Dopolina 

My new Simpson VR frame/fork/stem just showed up and now it is time to spec this baby. Here's where it gets fun!



Help me spec this bike.

I am going to ride the heck out of it in all conditions. Where I live is very mountainous so the discs will come in handy.

So Far:

1. Wheels are a done deal (as we make those - more on that latter) as are rotors but everything else is up for grabs.

2. Groupset: I am leaning towards Campagnolo as my other bike is Campagnolo - and I do prefer it - but I am not locked into this because I won't be able to share wheels anyways (SRAM IS A NON-STARTER - don't even go there). Spec will be 11spd. Frame is set up for electronic shifting if I can be convinced to go that route.

3. Brake calipers: I like the idea of TRP HY/RD but am looking for some feedback here.

4. Saddle: I like the FLITE but haven't ridden one in a while. I am thinking WHITE...

5. Tires: The wheels are tubeless compatible so I am looking for some tire feedback as well as I'd like to give tubeless a real shot.

6. Tape: Colour choices are black, white, red, blue and natural leather.

More pics:

Stem was included (and is carbon). These are the same bars I have on my other bike so I'd like to stay with these.



I will cut the seat mast and fork during final assembly. For now they remain as shipped.



Yup. That's our logo (custom) included UNDER the custom paint. Pretty sweet, non?



All cables and housings are internal so this should be a really clean looking ride.



You can't see it but the logo is raised (hand painted?) and really pops.

jimc101

The groupset choice for now would have to be Shimano 5800/R685 STI if mechanical, or 6870/R785 if electric (DI2) Campagnolo seem to be a few years off discs.

For tires, Schwalbe One are the tubeless of the moment, not too many other options out there yet.

Bartape, black is a safe choice, would look to match with cables if possible

Bob Dopolina 

I'm not locked in to using the Shimano calipers. I know there are a few options out there where I can use the mechanical levers. As I said, I like the idea of the TPR calipers but am hoping that someone who has used them could provide some insight.

Honestly, the odds on black tape are low, especially since I am going with a white saddle (maybe).

Tires, noted. Thanks.

robbyville

Hi Bob,

I can't comment on the campy choice as it's been a while since I've used one (but loved it then). I will say that I love my electronic shifting and other than on an eventual cross bike I won't go back to mechanical. While the new mechanical shifting up front is certainly far better than it has been over the years, the electronic just can't be matched. I have to admit that if paying retail and faced with the choice I'd probably go mechanical but if not...

Also, I got a chance to do an extended ride with the 2nd gen Shimano hydraulic disc... "wow" the only word I can think of. I guess I feel that if mechanical discs are bottom of the barrel at this point for Mtb then why would I have them on an expensive road bike. I don't personally have them yet for full disclosure!

I'm on my third set of tubeless tires since I still like to experiment. I only use these wheels for winter, training on gravel, and then a Fondo that I do each year which has over 10 miles of uphill dirt/gravel climbing. So far I'd say that the Bontrager R3's in 25mm have been my absolute favorite. I replaced them at about 1500 miles but only due to so many cuts that sealant was starting to seep out. I wouldn't take the cuts to mean that the tires are poor quality, more just how I use them. The feel was most definitely different from tubes, more soft, and a much more comfortable ride. I weigh 157 +/- and ran them at about 85r 80frt. The next set I had were The Hutchison Fusion 3's in 23mm. I couldn't get the 25's and maybe they would be better. Hardest tire in the world to get on, I had a hard time seating one bead and frankly I don't find I get any benefit in terms of feel or comfort, granted that could be due to width more than rubber. I also felt that the R3's had more grip. I only ran these tires for a few hundred miles before deciding they weren't for me and the terrain I was using them on (again a big part could have been the size). Now I'm on the Schwalbe One's. Back in 25mm. So far so good, about the same weight as the R3's if that's important, I don't think that they'll last as long though, they seem much thinner to me. Comfort has been on par as well with the Bontrager's.

I think for my next set I may settle back into the Bontrager's. People tend to discount them as OEM on Trek, but I think they make some nice products with these tires a good case in point.

I won't bother with the seat since that's so darn preferential.

The frame looks stunning, great design and color choice. Can't wait to see it built up!

Bob Dopolina 

Robbyville,

Thanks. Lots to ponder.

gsa103

Schwalbe One tubeless is a great road tire. Supple, excellent traction, low resistance, and not impossible to mount.

dbf73

Frame looks hot - how about bar tape to match the red/orange markings? nice project - keep us informed/updated

DinoShepherd

Bob -

Really no idea of the conditions local to you. I can only share my experience.

I have been running the TRP disc calipers on my commuter / CX bike for about a year now. Huge step up from the TRP linear pulls I had before, which were a modest step up from the previous cantis.

We get lots of rain, lots of mud and lots of steep hills here.

I recently had a chance to check out and get some ride time on the new Shimano road hydros. All I can say is "amazing". A definite step up from mechanical discs. The ease of maintenance and adjustability over the mechanicals is worth the price of admission alone. The power and feel is incredible as well.

Currently trying to order up a Giant with this spec.

Anyway, if you are going to be at Interbike, send me a PM. I'll buy you a beer...

Bob Dopolina 

Dino,

The TRP I am looking at are hydraulic but cable actuated. Am I misunderstanding this?

halfspeed

If you have to do discs, don't bother with mechanicals. IME, the advantages are much smaller than the disadvantages and only make sense if you're riding in icy conditions. Hydraulics, supposedly, are much better, but I have no direct experience with them. It looks like the TRPs you're considering are cable actuated so you can go EPS. FWIW, my friend who races Di2 and EPS and is a long time DA owner prefers the Campy product. EPS is what I'd do, but I was underwhelmed by Ultegra Di2. Maybe my expectations were too high.

sbxx1985 

Hot. You know Campy is the answer.

Bob Dopolina 

Thx.

I'm going to add this to my short list. Campy EPS with TRP HY/rd or the front runners at the moment. I just have to do coatings.

redlude97

I rode the TRP hybrids and wasn't all that impressed compared to the tried and true BB7. If you don't go full hydro I would probably stick with bb7

DinoShepherd

Sorry, should have been more clear. I am running the Spyre. The mechanical units. Zero experience with the cable actuated hydros, although the dudes who run them seem to really like them.

:-)

Bob Dopolina 

My understanding is that all you are really getting with the hydro/mechanical is the fact the the pistons will retract better, self cebpnter on worn pads and reduce rubbing. Did you notice any difference in this regard?

redlude97

I didn't ride it for long enough to know if this was an actual benefit long term but in terms of modulation and power they felt similar to properly adjusted bb7s. I've ridden bb7s and bb5s long enough and the adjustments are easy and aren't required very often, if you have any mechanical aptitude its a cinch, easier than centering and adjusting new pads on rim calipers. There's also a host of pad compounds for the BB7s, not sure about the TRPs

Bob Dopolina 

Well...

A conversation in a bar tape thread has made me go back and look at some synthetic leathers that are available and I found a burnt orange that might just work really well with the orange in the decals. I have a sample coming so when I see it is person I'll know if it's true love or just a passing fancy.

I am starting to warm up to the Ultegra Di2/hydraulic. I need to do some research on installation (and contact the Simpson VR about any hints they may have). I know there are some hidden batteries that go in the seat tubes so I looking at these. The seat mast on this bike is really oversized so I am wondering if I can't hide the battery and junction box in there. I'd really like to keep this as clean as possible.

Any experience hiding these bits?

WHOOOSSHHH...

Some subdued orange bar tape would look outstanding!

halfspeed

I disagree. Because the pads have to be closer on bb5s and bb7s, the adjustments are more precise than rim calipers. bb5s suck out loud because they only adjust from one side. The rotors go out of true if you look at them sideways. The system is way more fiddly than any road calipers I've used.

BTW, if you have to lay the bike down, careful about laying it down on the NDS so you don't knock the rotors out of true.

jsigone

road BB7 or Spyre and pick any non hydro groupset. It's still shocking how many recalls are made for hydro brakes given they been on MTB for over a decade but just not AS weight weenie. I'll take the 1/4lb penailty from mechanical disc brake for reliability factors when decending down a 4000ft mt in 13 miles. My gripe with hydro/mech is that simply isnt enough brake fluid in the system to prevent boiling and brake fade on long decents. Palomar Mt has something like 88 switch backs in 6.5 miles before it opens up to less braking turns.

Bob Dopolina 

I live in a very mountainous area. This is a concern. Thanks for that. I need to do some more resaerch on this. I am really leaning towrds Ultegra Di2 so I need to make the right call on the levers.

Bob Dopolina 

Poop.

The BB7 was my fallback position.

Anyone else have a similar experience with these?

joejack951

I have many miles worth of experience using the BB7 road version with mechanical Ultegra levers (6503's to be exact). The initial caliper setup is critical because in order to get optimum feel you do need to run the pads very close to the rotor. Once I figured out how to manage that (carefully torqueing the caliper bolts so as not to torque the rotor, too), I really got to enjoy my front-only disc. As already noted, adjustments are very easy when needed with a click or two of the dials. Unlike rim brake pads, you don't need to worry about anything other than the distance to the rotor. And a disc brake at its worst still crushes a rim brake in the wet. Pad life is simply superb relative to rim brakes, for me.

This has never been an issue for me. You'd have to have something sticking out of the ground to reach up and hit the rotor. My 160mm front rotor is off the ground by an inch or two, with the only contact points at the front of my bike being the handlebars and tire. If I had a rear disc, it appears that it be equally as well protected thanks to my pedals lifting the rear of the bike off the ground.

redlude97

He's making it seem like more of an issue than it is. They take less than 1 minute to adjust every ~500 miles or so. All you have to do is turn 2 knobs per caliper 1/8 of a turn and check clearance. BB7's have been the gold standard for mechanical disks on road bikes for over a decade

jsigone

BB5's adjust one side of the pads as they wear (good for on the fly), you have to manually realign the calipers otherwise you can warp the rotors as the piston is engaged (rotors cost as much as the entire kit)

BB7's adjust both sides of the pads as they wear.

TRP Spyres work similar to BB7, but get the all alum version still much lighter then BB7, read some report of the carbon arm that closes the piston cracking and failing on decents or a dead grip. 10grams saved isn't worth it. They also had a recall earlier this yr on another part of the caliper, had to do with servicing them but can't remember the details.