Clipless pedal advice
#1
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Clipless pedal advice
I've finally decided to switch over to clipless pedals after being afraid to switch for over a year. However, I have no idea what I'm looking at.
Any suggestions out there for pedals and shoe combos? I've got some money to spend at performance bikes so would likely be shopping there.
Any suggestions out there for pedals and shoe combos? I've got some money to spend at performance bikes so would likely be shopping there.
Last edited by Mark Stone; 09-26-14 at 04:18 PM. Reason: Corrected spelling in title
#2
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From: SE MN
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What are you trying to sell?
I prefer to buy my cycling shoes locally so I can try them on. As far as clipless pedals I've always gone with Shimano SPD style, but there are many options and just as many opinions.
I prefer to buy my cycling shoes locally so I can try them on. As far as clipless pedals I've always gone with Shimano SPD style, but there are many options and just as many opinions.
#3
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From: South Central PA
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Search the threads, there is tons of information already written about the types of pedals/cleats/shoes available.
At the most basic, you'll have to decide between 2-bolt and 3-bolt cleats. Generally 2-bolt = MTB pedals and 3-bolt = road pedals but there are variations.
The most popular are SPD and SPD-SL from Shimano, but others use the same bolt pattern and cleats.
Narrow down what you're looking for, then come back and ask some specific questions. Most of us went through the same process you're undertaking now.
At the most basic, you'll have to decide between 2-bolt and 3-bolt cleats. Generally 2-bolt = MTB pedals and 3-bolt = road pedals but there are variations.
The most popular are SPD and SPD-SL from Shimano, but others use the same bolt pattern and cleats.
Narrow down what you're looking for, then come back and ask some specific questions. Most of us went through the same process you're undertaking now.
#4
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From: Randle, WA
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I switched about a month ago to Shimano PD-R540 and I bought some Mavic shoes that Competitive Cyclist had on sale and I was all in for $104. I didn't know how I'd like it so I didn't want to spend a bunch and I'm happy with my purchase. I will go with better components when the current stuff is wore out.
#5
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From: SoCal
I switched about a month ago to Shimano PD-R540 and I bought some Mavic shoes that Competitive Cyclist had on sale and I was all in for $104. I didn't know how I'd like it so I didn't want to spend a bunch and I'm happy with my purchase. I will go with better components when the current stuff is wore out.
#6
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How much time do you spend off the bike on your rides? That will be an important factor in your decision, whether to go for a recessed cleat (2-hole) or non-recessed (2 or 3-hole).
#7
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I'm thinking I might want recessed so that I can walk around if I need to.
#8
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Bikes: MBK Super Mirage 1991, CAAD10, Yuba Mundo Lux, and a Cannondale Criterium Single Speed

You can clip in for long rides, or you can use the flat side with your regular shoes for short rides to the shops and back, short commutes etc.
#9
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Will you wear your cycling shoes on your commute? Before switching to Look Keos earlier this year, I spent about 8 years riding on these;

You can clip in for long rides, or you can use the flat side with your regular shoes for short rides to the shops and back, short commutes etc.

You can clip in for long rides, or you can use the flat side with your regular shoes for short rides to the shops and back, short commutes etc.
What prompted my search was a discussion with a salesperson at my LBS. I have a 25 mile commute to and from grad school and he was very confident in telling me that going clipless would likely shave 5-15 minutes off of my time. Salesperson BS?
#10
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From: location location
Bikes: MBK Super Mirage 1991, CAAD10, Yuba Mundo Lux, and a Cannondale Criterium Single Speed
I got those at Performance. There are a few Shimano variations on the same theme that are always in stock there. Google "Campus pedals" and see what comes up.
You will get to and from school quicker with stiff-soled shoes and clipped into your pedals. 5-15 minutes over 25 miles? Maybe. Depends how quick/slow you're doing it now, how often you have to put your foot down, how much climbing there is etc. It'll definitely help you enjoy your longer weekend ride more.
You will get to and from school quicker with stiff-soled shoes and clipped into your pedals. 5-15 minutes over 25 miles? Maybe. Depends how quick/slow you're doing it now, how often you have to put your foot down, how much climbing there is etc. It'll definitely help you enjoy your longer weekend ride more.
#11
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Buy shoes based on fit, not the hottest brand.
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#13
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Better to get a tiny bit looser fitting shoes than too tight.
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#14
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I am using Look Keo 2 max pedals. Really like them. I also wear DMT shoes with the neutral cleat (4.5 degrees of movement). I agree with a shoe that fits a little losse. I found that my feet were falling asleep while riding because I would make the shoe snug. Now that I've loosened them a bit they feel much better. Hope this helps....
#15
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Your spelling of pedals reminds me of the entrepreneurial girl of loose morals who bought a bike so she could peddle it all over town. Please take no offense. I just couldn't resist.
#16
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They'll get a good feel for what you need and want at Performance...
clipless is the way to go my man... it will improve the effectiveness of your pedaling on the bike... nuthin like being able to "pull up" when you're pedaling...
clipless is the way to go my man... it will improve the effectiveness of your pedaling on the bike... nuthin like being able to "pull up" when you're pedaling...
#17
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I agree....used toe clips on MTB for years. Finally went clipless on my road bike and what a difference!!
#18
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From: Minneapolis, MN
This is exactly what I'm looking for. Where can I find these?
What prompted my search was a discussion with a salesperson at my LBS. I have a 25 mile commute to and from grad school and he was very confident in telling me that going clipless would likely shave 5-15 minutes off of my time. Salesperson BS?
What prompted my search was a discussion with a salesperson at my LBS. I have a 25 mile commute to and from grad school and he was very confident in telling me that going clipless would likely shave 5-15 minutes off of my time. Salesperson BS?
The drawback of those "one side clipless, one side flat" pedals is that they're annoying to use when you're getting on and off the pedal - like at stoplights or intersections. With 2 sided pedals you learn to clip in or out (likewise if you're use 2 sided flat pedals) without even looking down. You start to go through the intersection with your head up looking around at the traffic. With those pedals that are different on each side, you have to look down, then sometimes flip it over with your foot. Right at the time when you should have your head up for traffic. It drove me nuts, I'd rather ride with 2 sided flats than have 1 sided clipless.
I didn't find clipless helped me "enjoy" riding more - personally I had to go through several shoes, insoles, cleat adjustments to find a way to ride without them causing knee/foot pain/numbness. Something that wasn't an issue with flat pedals. I'm debating whether to try again on my fast roadie with clipless and a wider shoe, or just throw in the towel and go with flats. Regarding commuting speed, keep in mind that any efficiency you gain with clipless might well be offset by additional time to change shoes on each end.
P.S. Right now on my commuter, I just use decent $40 flat pedals (WELLGO Alloy BMX Mountain Bike Pedals Sealed 9/16") with pins.
Last edited by PaulRivers; 09-26-14 at 01:05 PM.
#19
Will you wear your cycling shoes on your commute? Before switching to Look Keos earlier this year, I spent about 8 years riding on these;

You can clip in for long rides, or you can use the flat side with your regular shoes for short rides to the shops and back, short commutes etc.

You can clip in for long rides, or you can use the flat side with your regular shoes for short rides to the shops and back, short commutes etc.
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#20
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You are right. There is absolutely nothing like it, i.e. nothing quite as ridiculous as trying to increase your cycling performance by pretending you are pulling up on the pedals. Some people can rub their stomach and pat their head at the same time, but not me. As for efficiently pulling up with one foot and pushing down with the other, then switchiing at just the right moment, well good luck. In my experience it is imaginary. Oh, being clipped in or on is great, no other way to ride, but not because of the mythical pulling up.
#21
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From: Rocky Mountain West
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You are right. There is absolutely nothing like it, i.e. nothing quite as ridiculous as trying to increase your cycling performance by pretending you are pulling up on the pedals. Some people can rub their stomach and pat their head at the same time, but not me. As for efficiently pulling up with one foot and pushing down with the other, then switchiing at just the right moment, well good luck. In my experience it is imaginary. Oh, being clipped in or on is great, no other way to ride, but not because of the mythical pulling up.
and if we essentially agree, that being clipped it is good, what's really the fuss?
I happen to think that there is a pulling up type of thing going on but I acknowledge that it's kind of just hearsay, and dodgey, that's why I put it in quotes... lol...
#22
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Neither of our opinions was presented as the only one that matters. Neither one should have been taken that way. I certainly didn't make the mistake of feeling that you thought so about your opinion. I agree that being attached to the pedals is essential.
#23
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I sometimes pull up on the flats when I think of it, but it takes a lot of concentration. I often find myself naturally pulling up on steep climbs or when starting off in a high gear, basically any high-torque situations.
The main benefit of clipping in is that your foot is never off the pedal, so when you're spinning at 90+rpm your foot doesn't come down beside the pedal resulting in your smacking your shin onto it instead.
The main benefit of clipping in is that your foot is never off the pedal, so when you're spinning at 90+rpm your foot doesn't come down beside the pedal resulting in your smacking your shin onto it instead.
#24
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From: Baltimore, MD, USA
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I'm a little disappointed by some of the advice I'm reading here. Clipless pedals, whether SPD, SPD-SL, Look or whatever similar alternative, are vastly superior to not using a clipless system or platform pedals. Having clipless pedals and proper cycling shoes with a stiff sole are absolutely key to maximizing the transfer of power from your legs to the pedals, in addition to keeping your feet properly aligned with and attached to the pedals.
Proper pedaling stroke should be smooth throughout the pedaling cycle so that you're applying power to the pedals at virtually all points throughout that cycle. That includes using your hamstrings and glutes on the upstroke of each leg as well as the quadriceps on the downstroke. Without some means of keeping your feet engaged to the pedals then you're just transfering power on the downstroke of each leg, wasting energy, and not engaging muscles which can do some real good towards improving your speed, endurance, and so on. When you're pedaling properly your shoulders should not be rocking back and forth - they should be virtually motionless.
Also, cycling shoes should not be loose or somewhat loose - they should be tighter than your tightest pair of walking shoes. You're not going to be walking in them for any length of time, and they're not going to be holding as much weight as your walking shoes do. If they're flopping or twisting around on your feet while you're cycling then they're too loose and you need a smaller size (within reason since your feet will likely swell somewhat after cycling for a while).
Pulling up on clipless pedals takes a while to get used to, but soon becomes second nature and you don't think about it all the time. You just concentrate on a smooth pedaling stroke and that's part of it.
Proper pedaling stroke should be smooth throughout the pedaling cycle so that you're applying power to the pedals at virtually all points throughout that cycle. That includes using your hamstrings and glutes on the upstroke of each leg as well as the quadriceps on the downstroke. Without some means of keeping your feet engaged to the pedals then you're just transfering power on the downstroke of each leg, wasting energy, and not engaging muscles which can do some real good towards improving your speed, endurance, and so on. When you're pedaling properly your shoulders should not be rocking back and forth - they should be virtually motionless.
Also, cycling shoes should not be loose or somewhat loose - they should be tighter than your tightest pair of walking shoes. You're not going to be walking in them for any length of time, and they're not going to be holding as much weight as your walking shoes do. If they're flopping or twisting around on your feet while you're cycling then they're too loose and you need a smaller size (within reason since your feet will likely swell somewhat after cycling for a while).
Pulling up on clipless pedals takes a while to get used to, but soon becomes second nature and you don't think about it all the time. You just concentrate on a smooth pedaling stroke and that's part of it.
#25
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From: SGV So Cal
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they should be tighter than your tightest pair of walking shoes.
Well, then at about mile 60 your feet will be screaming for mercy.
your feet will swell with mileage. Loosen up your shoes a little at the first sign of discomfort.
DON'T wait until they really hurt! or it will be a long way home.
To that point, spend the money on the best fitting and quality shoes you can afford instead of the pedal that's 50 grams lighter.
If you are going to typically go for longer distances fit the shoes with some high quality Moreno wool hiking socks. (Smartwool, etc)
Well, then at about mile 60 your feet will be screaming for mercy.
your feet will swell with mileage. Loosen up your shoes a little at the first sign of discomfort.
DON'T wait until they really hurt! or it will be a long way home.
To that point, spend the money on the best fitting and quality shoes you can afford instead of the pedal that's 50 grams lighter.
If you are going to typically go for longer distances fit the shoes with some high quality Moreno wool hiking socks. (Smartwool, etc)





