PedalMasher

I had my knee scoped a month ago, and getting back on the bike is the best way to rebuild those right quads. Unfortunately, climbing is tough with the 12-25 rear and double ring upfront right now with the weak right leg. I can get a 12-27 for $40... Will I notice much of a difference? Is my stock cassette worth changing? thx in advance

cryogenic

There's not THAT big of a difference between 2 teeth, plus you're going to have slightly larger gaps in between the gears. I'd almost say you might be better served to get a triple front crankset or a compact double. Then again, for $40 you might as well try it out and if that still doesn't do the trick, try the compact double since that'll cost you more to upgrade.

Grasschopper

I say try the 12-27 and if it isn't enough go for a compact double. Triple conversion would cost too much unless you went with low end stuff. Depending on your BB you can get a Nashbar compact crank for like $70 (ISIS BB) or you could get the FSA Gossamer Mega EXO which includes a new BB for like $150-$160. Either way you wont need new derailuers which you would by going to the triple as well as the afore mentioned crank and BB.

NJWheelBuilder

I have both cassettes. I find the 12/25 is adequate for riding most hills with the exception of some local monsters. Of course, I don't have a damaged knee. For $40, I'd go with the 12/27 and try it out. Is your crankset a 53/39? It kind of depends on what you have for a small chainring. If its bigger than a 39, you might want to consider just changing to a compact or a triple crankset.

travis200

The 12/27 is a pretty hard find right now and especially at $40 I say pick it up.

55/Rad

Pedalmasher - I have a 9 sp. 12/27 I can loan you for a few rides to test. That is, if your trustworthy.

55/Rad

jbhowat

Yesterday I wished I had a 12-27. After 12.5 consecutive miles of climbing an average grade of 10%. I see the top. I'm already on about a 10% grade. I know the top of this climb gets steep at the end, and I thought I was on the steep part.. haha. I'm on the 10% in my 39-25 turning about 65 rpms. All of a sudden more of the road emerges from around some trees. The end tilts back and heads into space it seems. Its probably a 15%+ grade, I'm already pushing some low-rpms in my lowest gear. I take a drink of gatorade, hit the pitch-back and stand up that last third of a mile. That was hell. Made it to the top though! On the way down, I really wish I had an 11t. do they make an 11-25... I think I'd like that a lot - I mean in 10 speed. Basically like my 9sp 12-25 with an 11t on the end??

Sawtooth

Couldn't you just replace the 12 cog on your new cassette with the 11 cog from your old cassette?

55/Rad

First off, that's some monstrous climbing. Good deal man!

Second, I'm sure you know you can get a custom cassette made but here's what I did on my 12/25 that I have paired with the compact crank when I found I really wanted an 11:

Took an 11 cog and matching lockring and exchanged it for the 12. It means I go 11-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25 on the 50/34 crank - which works very well for me.

Happy climbing.

55/Rad

KevinF

Where is this climb? 12.5 miles at 10% grade gets you up about 6,600 feet!

teamawe

Whew! 6600 ft in 12.5 miles, what mountain is that?

EDIT: Kevin beat me to it...teach me to answer the phone during a reply!

Applehead57

No, 25 to a 27 isn't much of a difference. Two possibilities:

1) I merged a 12x25 with an 11x28 to make a 12x28. I'm very pleased with the resulting ratio's.
2) Sheldon Brown/Harris Cyclery has 13x30 cassette for sale. Not cheap, but that would make a real difference for your knees.

JavaMan

I have the same bike as you, and I recently got a 12-27. I'm glad I did. On a steep hill you will definitely notice the difference. Two teeth doesn't sound like much, but if you do the math, it's an 8% difference. Many people spend hundreds of dollars on lightweight or aerodynamic components to get a much smaller improvement!

PedalMasher

My knee thanks you for the info, I'll prolly pick one up since the response seems mostly in favor!

jbhowat

The climb was advertised (road sign) as 10% average grade. I think thats only to the first turn-off which is a few miles from the top. We started at 4800 feet and we probably at about 8000+ by the end. The problem is that after the first turn off there are some hills that you go up and then down the other side - so probably you lose overall altitude on that point, but not a whole lot. Its Rist Canyon for anyone who knows. I guess the whole way to the top must be less than 10%, but I was just going by the sign at the bottom. its a well-known climb in the FoCo area. All you have tyo do is say "Rist" and people will wimp out of a group ride. Its hell... HAHA I love it though. There gets to be a certain point when all of a sudden there are these rolling fields along side you, up near the top - with these crazy highland cows (they look like mini buffalos to me, but I'm from jersey so take that with a grain of salt). It feels like i'm in the alps or something up there... pretty neat. I should do a write up of the ride - l will tonight, it was a damn good push to the top ... I just have to get some work done first (school, bah).

terrymorse 

12.5 miles at 10%? 6600 feet of climbing. Don't tease me like that.

Where is this climbing holy pace?

[edit] Never mind, I found it on topozone. Less than 4000 ft. Those highway signs are not to be trusted. They usually list the maximum grade only.

From the railroad crossing (5114') to the top of a small hill (8283'): 11.76 mi., 3579' (6% avg. grade). Looks like there's a half mile at 12%, around the 10-mile mark. [/edit]