In your experience, what are the advantages of titanium frames?
#51
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#52
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Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
#53
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#54
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#56
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#59
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
I went for a quick spin on a steel forked hardtail Merlin mtb 25 years ago. After an uphill sprint, it was "this as a custom road bike, for this body, is it!" I sat on that knowledge for 15 years; that $4000 being quite out of reach. Things changed 8 years ago and I ordered a steel forked ti bike from TiCycles; a local builder I knew.
I love the bike. OK weight (we never looked at weight and just let it fall where it may), plenty stiff and fun to ride over bad pavement. Not cushy. This is a large tubed frame. Also steep angles. I feel the road for real. But it is still far less jarring than a similar geometry steel frame would be. (In the early days with the bike, I had to restrain myself from seeking out the worst pavement on any road I was on. At Cycle Oregon, a ride this bike is really well suited for, I regularly ride the line of bad pavement so the person I am riding with gets the good stuff. (And like all the ti riders, we have learned to expect the big slowdown every time the ride hits rough chipseal. We don't care, but it seems the CF and alum folk do.) This bike is painted with bare stays. We used a good painter and I have had no issues except a couple of scratches I have retouched. Really, no different than steel except maybe more prep. (I never talked to the painter.)
5 years later I ordered a second ti bike from the same builder. Fix gear, again steel fork, this time bare metal. Custom dropouts that I designed. So much fun and so versatile (as a fix gear) that it is well into my all-time mileage rankings in 3 years. This is again a stiff, even steeper bike. Rides like a custom steel race bike, again fully alive on rough roads, but again, doesn't loosen teeth. Same issue with riders in front hitting chipseal.
One very convenient plus of titanium is the ease of making changes. The rear triangle/dropout design of my fixie is unique, designed around a very long horizontal dropout (that makes the old long Campy dropout look like a toy). We also went with a very steep seat angle so the rear wheel could be very far forward riding a big cog. There, we hit a minor oops. With a 25c tire, fender run down to the chainstay bridge in usual fashion and a 23t cog so the wheel was all the way forward in the dropout, the tire solidly hit the fender hardware. So ... bike went back to the builder, he carved an arc into the bridge, welded in a matching arc'd plate and drilled and countersunk for the fender screw. Now I run the fender in front of the bridge with a flat head screw. Looks like it was designed that way and very clean. Cool, that you can do after the fact changes that are as good as the rest of the bike, look just as good and don't require painting!
Ben
I love the bike. OK weight (we never looked at weight and just let it fall where it may), plenty stiff and fun to ride over bad pavement. Not cushy. This is a large tubed frame. Also steep angles. I feel the road for real. But it is still far less jarring than a similar geometry steel frame would be. (In the early days with the bike, I had to restrain myself from seeking out the worst pavement on any road I was on. At Cycle Oregon, a ride this bike is really well suited for, I regularly ride the line of bad pavement so the person I am riding with gets the good stuff. (And like all the ti riders, we have learned to expect the big slowdown every time the ride hits rough chipseal. We don't care, but it seems the CF and alum folk do.) This bike is painted with bare stays. We used a good painter and I have had no issues except a couple of scratches I have retouched. Really, no different than steel except maybe more prep. (I never talked to the painter.)
5 years later I ordered a second ti bike from the same builder. Fix gear, again steel fork, this time bare metal. Custom dropouts that I designed. So much fun and so versatile (as a fix gear) that it is well into my all-time mileage rankings in 3 years. This is again a stiff, even steeper bike. Rides like a custom steel race bike, again fully alive on rough roads, but again, doesn't loosen teeth. Same issue with riders in front hitting chipseal.
One very convenient plus of titanium is the ease of making changes. The rear triangle/dropout design of my fixie is unique, designed around a very long horizontal dropout (that makes the old long Campy dropout look like a toy). We also went with a very steep seat angle so the rear wheel could be very far forward riding a big cog. There, we hit a minor oops. With a 25c tire, fender run down to the chainstay bridge in usual fashion and a 23t cog so the wheel was all the way forward in the dropout, the tire solidly hit the fender hardware. So ... bike went back to the builder, he carved an arc into the bridge, welded in a matching arc'd plate and drilled and countersunk for the fender screw. Now I run the fender in front of the bridge with a flat head screw. Looks like it was designed that way and very clean. Cool, that you can do after the fact changes that are as good as the rest of the bike, look just as good and don't require painting!
Ben
#60
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#62
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You think that bike looks good?
OP, I wouldn't paint Ti or stainless steel for that matter. It is counterproductive. You have the perfect finish, and you can't wait to cock it up? What is that about? Decorate the bike with the hubs, rims, headset, bar tape, cable outers, saddle, etc. My opinion only, of course.
OP, I wouldn't paint Ti or stainless steel for that matter. It is counterproductive. You have the perfect finish, and you can't wait to cock it up? What is that about? Decorate the bike with the hubs, rims, headset, bar tape, cable outers, saddle, etc. My opinion only, of course.
#63
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#64
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I've never heard this stat before. Would you please back it up with a reference?
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#65
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#66
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build

The question is what does a finished frame weigh that is strong and stiff enough in the right places. Titanium provides that combination quite similarly to aluminum. Being in the middle between steel and aluminum (approximately), it probably can't get to the same low frame weights that aluminum can without running afoul of the "too thin" tube issue and the tendency to dent. It also isn't a great candidate for making very complex tubes by hydroforming like aluminum is. No it isn't perfect. But it is a wonderful bike frame material. As I said, my Merlin Works CR only weighs 1,207 g in size M, about 1 lb more than the bulk of lightweight CF or 1.5 lb more than the lightest of the lightest. Rides great. Looks great. What is not to like?
#67
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From: Northern VA
Bikes: Moots Vamoots, Colnago C60, Santa Cruz Stigmata CC, and too many other bikes I don't ride
I don't think you mean "heavy". I think you mean dense. Which is kind of ironic under the circumstances. 
The question is what does a finished frame weigh that is strong and stiff enough in the right places. Titanium provides that combination quite similarly to aluminum. Being in the middle between steel and aluminum (approximately), it probably can't get to the same low frame weights that aluminum can without running afoul of the "too thin" tube issue and the tendency to dent. It also isn't a great candidate for making very complex tubes by hydroforming like aluminum is. No it isn't perfect. But it is a wonderful bike frame material. As I said, my Merlin Works CR only weighs 1,207 g in size M, about 1 lb more than the bulk of lightweight CF or 1.5 lb more than the lightest of the lightest. Rides great. Looks great. What is not to like?

The question is what does a finished frame weigh that is strong and stiff enough in the right places. Titanium provides that combination quite similarly to aluminum. Being in the middle between steel and aluminum (approximately), it probably can't get to the same low frame weights that aluminum can without running afoul of the "too thin" tube issue and the tendency to dent. It also isn't a great candidate for making very complex tubes by hydroforming like aluminum is. No it isn't perfect. But it is a wonderful bike frame material. As I said, my Merlin Works CR only weighs 1,207 g in size M, about 1 lb more than the bulk of lightweight CF or 1.5 lb more than the lightest of the lightest. Rides great. Looks great. What is not to like?
#68
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Yeah. I think my Seven frame is about 3 pounds, about the same as the CAAD5 I used to have and about a pound less than most of the steel frames I have had.
It's also quite stiff, similar to the CAAD5 but not as brutal on rough roads. Still, beats me up pretty good and I wouldn't want anything stiffer. I have ridden a Moots and it felt like a spring compared to the Seven.
It's also quite stiff, similar to the CAAD5 but not as brutal on rough roads. Still, beats me up pretty good and I wouldn't want anything stiffer. I have ridden a Moots and it felt like a spring compared to the Seven.
#69
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Fair enough assuming your classification of the Ti frame as flexy is based on personal experience. As it turns out, both my Ti and CF bikes weigh the same and cost just about the same, 13.5 lb without pedals, cages or computer stuff for about $3,500. Home built of course from variously sourced parts. I would like to lighten the CF bike with a 700 g frame, but that's just beyond what I want to spend right now. Thing is I love both the CF and the Ti. Just lucky I guess.
#70
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Fair enough assuming your classification of the Ti frame as flexy is based on personal experience. As it turns out, both my Ti and CF bikes weigh the same and cost just about the same, 13.5 lb without pedals, cages or computer stuff for about $3,500. Home built of course from variously sourced parts. I would like to lighten the CF bike with a 700 g frame, but that's just beyond what I want to spend right now. Thing is I love both the CF and the Ti. Just lucky I guess.
The comment a few posts back about the cost of the DeRosa at $15 grand: Sure, build any bike with Super Record EPS and see what it costs! Build a Colnago C-60 with SR EPS and you are in the same cost bracket.
#72
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Starting with an existing titanium frame you just pay for couplers and labor, keeping your great fit.
#73
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From: Toronto, Ontario
Bikes: 1999 Litespeed Tuscany 105, 2007 Marin Palisades Trail, 2006 Burley Duet tandem
I have been riding my Tuscany for nearly 15 years (gift on my 50th birthday). It's still a fun ride and I can vouch for its longevity, but I can't compare with cf since I've never even sampled a cf bike.
Based on my informal on-the - street survey, it seems many ti bike riders buy them to match their greying hair - maybe older riders appreciate different things.
Based on my informal on-the - street survey, it seems many ti bike riders buy them to match their greying hair - maybe older riders appreciate different things.
#75
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Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build






