Saving a dead Brooks.
#1
Guest
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Saving a dead Brooks.
Is there no way to "reupholster" a Brooks saddle? Seems like a shame to toss a seat that just needs new leather. And at a hundred and fifty a pop, it might be worth a custom tack job to save one no? I searched but could only find discussions on how to bring back dry leather or re shape a winged saddle. I have two that look like swimming manatees and have disconnected themselves from the adjustable nose.
#2
Seņor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,462
Likes: 1,554
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Soaking in water until pliable and then carefully binding them into the desired shape seems the consensus on the way to go. I think Mr. Tony Colegrave (an occasional poster here, and Brooks refinishing expert) might be able to explain how to re-attach.
$150 a pop? Take a look at some of the British web sites. A New B-17 can come to your door for about $70.00 is you shop around. A Professional for $95 and a Team Pro for $120.
< edit - on second thought, stepinthefunk might also have some knowledge here. >
$150 a pop? Take a look at some of the British web sites. A New B-17 can come to your door for about $70.00 is you shop around. A Professional for $95 and a Team Pro for $120.
< edit - on second thought, stepinthefunk might also have some knowledge here. >
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In search of what to search for.
Last edited by USAZorro; 02-24-09 at 10:04 PM.
#3
Guest
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That's cool. I pulled that price off ebay, which I use as a tool to gage popularity and what people are willing to pay. I would probably give my local bike guy, my buddy Barry, the business anyway. My real peeve is having to throw away a perfectly good saddle frame just because the leather is gone. Both my killed saddles were never even broken in and are dead from neglect.
#5
wheelin in the years
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 666
Likes: 1
From: Kansas
Bikes: Some Schwinns, a Gary Fisher, some vintage lt wts
I have checked with a local leather shop here. He had the thick leather. I talked with the guys there at the shop, and the most limiting factor apperars to be making a "buck" or mold to form it with. In the begining of the Brooks web site there is a machine running. From what I can see this is the mold or buck causing the leather to be pressed into the seat shape. I have read some where (so totaly unsubstantiated) that some type of dressing/salve is added to the leather to help it maintain its shape.
#7
If it comes to throwing them away, I can use them. You'll be pretty hard pressed to find anyone who is interested in taking on that kind of work, at least at a cost that makes it worth doing. Unless the frames you have are unusually rare it's probably more than they are worth to have them re-leathered, and they won't really be "Brooks" anymore then either, unless you have it done by Mr. Colegrave.
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
I won't throw them away. I have a bunch of stuff that I want to list on the "pay it forward" thread Nothing really good but whatever....I saved it from the trash because I know it's all worth something to somebody.
I might call someone at Brooks though....Just for giggles.
I might call someone at Brooks though....Just for giggles.
#10
Too many hobbies!
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 304
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From: Hanover, PA
Bikes: Maserati MT-2 (reviewed in Road and Track, 1974; Raleigh Competion GS Carlton; Dawes Super Gallexy; Hollands; Raleigh Professional
If you need parts (rivets, springs, clamps or tensioning mechanisms) you can get them here:
https://www.wallbike.com/brooks/partsandaccessories.html
All you need is to craft a replacement saddle leather.
https://www.wallbike.com/brooks/partsandaccessories.html
All you need is to craft a replacement saddle leather.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 643
Likes: 1
From: The Peninsula
Bikes: '62 Peugeot UO8, '63 Schwinn Superior, ;72 Peugeot PX-10, '74 Motobecane LeChampion, '74 Peugeot UO18
I saved an old B-15 I picked up at a swap meet. It was dry as toast and half the rivets were pulling thruough either because it was overtensioned or the leather shrunk. I drilled-out the rivets, treated the leather with mink oil and re-riveted it. Works just fine now.
#13
Full Clout Y'all
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 245
Likes: 1
From: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Bikes: Right now, 8-10 various steeds
Bravo sir
#14
multimodal commuter
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 19,810
Likes: 597
From: NJ, NYC, LI
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
It shouldn't be that hard to cut a piece of wood to the desired shape, stretch a piece of soaking wet bull's hide over it, and let it dry like that. But will the leather harden enough to retain its shape in use?
I can cut the wood mold no problem, if anyone wants to volunteer to undertake the leathercraft....
I can cut the wood mold no problem, if anyone wants to volunteer to undertake the leathercraft....
#17
insert witty comment here
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 846
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Bikes: 2016 Specialized AWOL, 2011 Electra Bike Ticino, '09 Trek 7.2 FX, Peugeot UE 18
Well it's not a Brooks, it's Wrights that I got for $0. It is dry to the point of being brittle but it seems mechanically sound. I've been applying generous amounts of Mink Oil to both sides for a few days now.
Some of the rivets are coming through as you can see. Where does one buy new rivets and what type of hammer would you use to install them?
Thanks for any tips you have to help me put this old saddle back into service.
Chris







Some of the rivets are coming through as you can see. Where does one buy new rivets and what type of hammer would you use to install them?
Thanks for any tips you have to help me put this old saddle back into service.
Chris







#18
In ages past I was quite a leathercraft hobbyist, and used to make some molded leather soles for "Navajo/Apache" type moccasins. The leather I used was thick, but not as thick as brooks saddle leather, and there was a LOT more time spent on WOODcraft (making the "male" forms used to mold the water-soaked leather) than anything else. Also, the forms had a limited life cause I tack-nailed the wet leather to the wood and after a few uses you couldn't get the nails to hold anymore. I'm sure even the crudest Indian (East, not Native American) saddles use a more sophisticated (metal) molding system that's longer-lasting. Short answer: unless you're really attached to a particular saddle, AND really good at both wood-carving and leathercraft, it's just not going to pay off.
#19
I mess with it sometimes, posted some pics awhile back, heres some again


the discoloration around the rivets is from soldering the back of the rivet.
These rails came from a "pre-softened" brooks that broke at the nose.
Not real pretty, but it works and beats watching TV or playing on the computer for an evening.


the discoloration around the rivets is from soldering the back of the rivet.
These rails came from a "pre-softened" brooks that broke at the nose.
Not real pretty, but it works and beats watching TV or playing on the computer for an evening.
#20
Too many hobbies!
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Hanover, PA
Bikes: Maserati MT-2 (reviewed in Road and Track, 1974; Raleigh Competion GS Carlton; Dawes Super Gallexy; Hollands; Raleigh Professional
#21
insert witty comment here
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 846
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Bikes: 2016 Specialized AWOL, 2011 Electra Bike Ticino, '09 Trek 7.2 FX, Peugeot UE 18
#22
I have 2 totaled Brooks saddles. Both are orginal, and have all the compenents.
One, I'm sure, was just left in the rain and sun wayyy too long... I doubt much can be done for it.


The next one is I guess in better shape...
Brooks Pro, been in a heavy car accident... The frame is all bent up but the leather is still strong and there arent any real rips in it.



Any advice for these in particular would be great, thanks.
One, I'm sure, was just left in the rain and sun wayyy too long... I doubt much can be done for it.


The next one is I guess in better shape...
Brooks Pro, been in a heavy car accident... The frame is all bent up but the leather is still strong and there arent any real rips in it.



Any advice for these in particular would be great, thanks.
#23
Buh'wah?!

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,086
Likes: 2
From: Charlottesville VA
Bikes: 2014 Giant Trance
Maybe for the last one, drill out the rivets and hammer it back onto a new frame from wallbike. Would make an interesting project nonetheless. Heck, you might get a usable Brooks out of it.
-Gene-
-Gene-
#25
a77impala
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 13
From: Central South Dakota
Bikes: 04=LeMond Arravee, 08 LeMond Versailles, 92 Trek 970
I have two Brooks saddles that needed new leather, I went to my local saddle shop and bought a piece of thick scrap leather for $3. It was large enough to do at least three saddles. I drilled out the rivets and soaked the old leather in water then pressed it for a couple days until it was dry and used that for a template.
I cut out a new piece and punched out the rivet holes, using the old leather as a guide. I soaked the new leather in water and riveted it to the frame and formed it by hand to the shape as close to the original Brooks as possible. Then I set aside in a warm place and let it dry. When dry the leather will be as stiff as a new Brooks.
I checked out a Tandys before I went to the saddle shop and they wanted an arm and a leg for their leather so if you have a shoe repair or saddle shop nearby check them out. They always have pieces they can't use.
I got rivets from Ace hardware, I did one in steel and one in copper.
Sorry no pics.
I cut out a new piece and punched out the rivet holes, using the old leather as a guide. I soaked the new leather in water and riveted it to the frame and formed it by hand to the shape as close to the original Brooks as possible. Then I set aside in a warm place and let it dry. When dry the leather will be as stiff as a new Brooks.
I checked out a Tandys before I went to the saddle shop and they wanted an arm and a leg for their leather so if you have a shoe repair or saddle shop nearby check them out. They always have pieces they can't use.
I got rivets from Ace hardware, I did one in steel and one in copper.
Sorry no pics.






