What do you use for reference points when you're measuring the fork? What are the standards and tolerances?
I was just given this beautiful Falcon with a slightly bent fork. I've done a few before, just by eye. They seem to work pretty good, but it seems like this job should be treated with a little more precision.

Here's my Bringheli fork jig.







...and here's my Hammill Engineering fork blade bender.

Wow. That's sweet. Maybe I could make one out of oak.

I just use a ladder. Wedge the fork blades between rungs and pull. By leaving the frame attached to the fork when I do the bending I can get plenty of leverage to do a nice, controlled bend.

This is interesting. I already have some ideas for a fork gauge that I want to build to help straighten fork sets. Your jig has the creative juices flowing.

Let's see some other ideas, if there are any out there.

We had a thread like this a few months back, but I can't find it. Anyhow, someone had a really basic jig made from a 2x4 with two U bolts through it for the steerer tube. A hydraulic car jack to was unbend the blades.

I don't remember who made it but I saved the image so I could make one.
Glenn

https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg..._id=SN-FCG/SET

I think this might be the thread mentioned. https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ht=fork+bender

That would put way too much stress on the fork crown/steerer area. At the very least, clamp the top of the fork blades.

mudboy makes a very good point, here. When straightening forks and/or frame set, I do not pass stress through a brazed or silver soldered joint. All stress is restricted to the tubing.

And that is why this thread is so good. By pooling our collective efforts and ideas, who knows what will result. I am going to keep my eye open, for do it yourself frame bicycle repairing tool material, when I go to the Dump, from now on.

The shop I used to work at had an excellent one. Similar to the VAR but a better refinement of it I think.
You clamped the steering tube like the var but the bars sliding jig went all the way to the crown so you aligned to the crown first, tightened the steering tube more so it would move in the jig, then checked your blades and dropouts. and aligned those as needed. Used to do a lot of them before lawsuits and when labor was cheaper than a fork.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/var/pages/var0006.html

Older bed frames have a stout L-shaped beam at both sides. Those are excellent for this type of project.

Yeah. I think I read that and forgot it and then got to thinking about it again.
Post #29 from Randyjawa is particularly useful. I was having a little trouble figuring out what to reference the twist from.