Sebster

I have a problem:
I'm running 48/15 right now (velodrome), and don't have a car.
I have to bike home after training, and have a few hills.

I'm running a flip flop hub (worst invention ever), so I can't run a cog on the freewheel side, as I'm brakeless, and backpedaling would be death.

Can you, intelligent members of BFSSFG, think of a solution other than switching out my cog/chainring every time for a lower ratio, or the miche cog/carrier system?

**Front fork isn't drilled for a brake

pic very related

yummygooey

Get a wheelset with fixed/fixed threads (can mount fixed cog + lockring on both sides).

Sebster

Thought about it, most expensive option
Even buying a fix/fix hub and relacing the rear rim is about $50 (assuming that I'm capable of building it)

xavier853

Change to the Miche cog system, allowing you to easily swap out a cog for a lower gearing on the ride home.
I know this isn't exactly the setup you wanted, but will probably be the cheapest.

yummygooey

IRO hubs are available in fixed/fixed for $20 + shipping. You might need new spokes, too?

Other than that, the Miche carrier + cog system seems like the easiest option, but even that sounds like it'll run $40+ for two cogs and a carrier.

The cheapest option is to just switch cogs every time.

Sebster

Xavier: I considered it, but I've heard about some difficulties with the system. How does one remove/tighten the carrier itself?

Yummygooey: Switching cogs every time sounds ok, but I am running a formula cog, and am wary about stripping the threads, especially with rotafix (no chainwhip at the moment)

yummygooey

You should invest in decent cogs (and lockring) anyways, and a chainwhip is a good tool to have around for a fixed gear rider.

Danzaxbonanza

Get a 46t chainring and pin spanner and swap that out when you're done? Changing chainrings seems much easier than changing cogs.

1nput0utput

Htfu?

Sebster

86.4 gear inches mashing up hills after a hard day of riding = death
thanks though haha

Sebster

Does anyone else ride to and from the velodrome?
I'm trying to wrap my head around emergency skidding on the streets with this ratio

Squirrelli

If you're serious about track, you should invest in a set of velodrome wheels that you use them exclusively on the track. Mostly because the Everwear? Rando? you have is going to feel like you're pedalling through mud if you want to break out for a lead.

What velodrome will you be riding in?

Sebster

Marymoor, but I'm just starting out this year, didn't think it would make a huge difference

TejanoTrackie 

I have the Miche system on two wheels, and it works very well. You just install the carrier once, and after that you just remove the lockring to change cogs. You install the carrier the same way you install a normal threaded cog. Screw the carrier on by hand, then slide on a cog and tighten the lockring. Use a chainwhip on the cog to fully tighten the carrier, after which you retighten the lockring. If you want to be really sure it is tight, install the wheel in the dropouts and stand on a pedal with the front wheel jammed against a wall or other fixed object. Then, remove the wheel and recheck the lockring for tightness. Use a good quality lockring such as Dura Ace.

Sebster

Feels like a dumb question, but why do you have to keep the lockring on during this process?
Couldn't you just install/tighten your cog and then put on the lockring at the end?

Ken Cox

Just gear down to 45 X 19 (63 gear inches) and learn to spin.

You can change back to your "velodrome" chainring and cog in a half an hour when you go to the "velodrome."

Sebster

???

nuhtowel

I may be missing something, but if you change the cog too much your chain will probably be the wrong size with a bigger cog on there.

Sebster

Well a few teeth in the cog shouldn't change too much, chainring definitely would make a bigger difference
That is a problem though

I still don't understand Ken Cox's reply

avner

you are wrong. If he doesn't need to have this wheel slammed against the seat post you can probably run 2 cogs 2-4 teeth apart. My jamis could run a 15 or a 19. Same chain.

Tom Stormcrowe

Well, Sturmey Archer has reissued it's old Fixed 3 speed IGH. (S3X)

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/s...cher-hubs.html

Now, it's definitely not the cheapest at $240.00, but it's the coolest.

PeDDeR27

Off-Topic, but what chain is that?

Ken Cox

You should have horizontal dropouts that let you adjust your chain tension; and, for large changes in gears, put on a new chain.

A chain costs less than a cog or a chainring.

So, you have one ring, cog and chain combination for the street and another ring, cog and chain for the velodrome.

A half hour work after you get to the velodrome.

In the meantime, on the street, you can ride with a more useful gear ratio and learn to spin...which will pay off on the velodrome as well as on the street.

Retem

IMO it is best to have a set of street wheels and a set of track wheels get something cheap like the wabis and be done with it keep you track wheels straight and you good tires clean and put some crap tires on your street wheels and get at it

scruggle

so Ken explained

and I was like wat