Dilemma
#1
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Joined: Nov 2011
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Dilemma
I'm in a bit of quandary an so thought I'd see what the bet and brightest of BF might have to say.
The short of it is that I need to decide between replacing the group set on my bike or replace the bike all together.
Now for the back story: I have a mid-90's LeMond Buenos Aires with the original 9-speed 105 group set on it. Aside from wheels (Aksium Race), saddle, cables/housings, and bar tape, it is original. The shifter for the rear has given up the ghost and per a couple local LBS's if I get a new shifter it will be 10-speed (9-speed is no longer made and I don't want Tiagra) and so I'll need a new rear derailleur, new rear cassette, and new chain. But because the old crankset won't work with a 10-speed chain, I'll need to replace the crankset as well. Also, the headset needs to be reworked. At this point I might as well change out the entire group set for $950 (including LBS build).
Well, one of my LBS's offered $400 for the bike. That basically gives me a $1350 allowance. A couple hundred more and I can get a very well equipped carbon Scattante or Motobecane . But, after perusing BF for a while doing research on factory direct bikes, the LeMond enthusiasts over in Vintage have me second guessing the replacement option. Also, one of the Vintage threads mentioned finding NOS components.
So, my options are:
1) Keep the LeMond and have a LBS replace the groupset for me (I have neither the time nor experience to do so myself).
2) Track down some NOS 9-speed shifters (potentially a low probability of success endeavor).
3) Replace my bike with a Scattante/Motobecane/Paramount/Fuji.
What say yea oh gods of the biking interweb?
The short of it is that I need to decide between replacing the group set on my bike or replace the bike all together.
Now for the back story: I have a mid-90's LeMond Buenos Aires with the original 9-speed 105 group set on it. Aside from wheels (Aksium Race), saddle, cables/housings, and bar tape, it is original. The shifter for the rear has given up the ghost and per a couple local LBS's if I get a new shifter it will be 10-speed (9-speed is no longer made and I don't want Tiagra) and so I'll need a new rear derailleur, new rear cassette, and new chain. But because the old crankset won't work with a 10-speed chain, I'll need to replace the crankset as well. Also, the headset needs to be reworked. At this point I might as well change out the entire group set for $950 (including LBS build).
Well, one of my LBS's offered $400 for the bike. That basically gives me a $1350 allowance. A couple hundred more and I can get a very well equipped carbon Scattante or Motobecane . But, after perusing BF for a while doing research on factory direct bikes, the LeMond enthusiasts over in Vintage have me second guessing the replacement option. Also, one of the Vintage threads mentioned finding NOS components.
So, my options are:
1) Keep the LeMond and have a LBS replace the groupset for me (I have neither the time nor experience to do so myself).
2) Track down some NOS 9-speed shifters (potentially a low probability of success endeavor).
3) Replace my bike with a Scattante/Motobecane/Paramount/Fuji.
What say yea oh gods of the biking interweb?
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,144
Likes: 3
From: Burnaby, BC
It's easy to find 9 speed shifters on ebay, but if you do go 10 speed your crank will be fine. You could go DT, or bar end as well to save some money.
If you like the bike it's not much of a dilemma...if you just want a new bike, that's okay too.
If you like the bike it's not much of a dilemma...if you just want a new bike, that's okay too.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,411
Likes: 13
From: Haunchyville
#7
Should Be More Popular




Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 46,178
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From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
#9
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Joined: Nov 2011
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I didn't think about the eBay route. I'm surprised at how much new old stuff is on there.
Do the shifters "know" what gear they are in or is that determined by the derailleur? I've been getting different stories from different bike shops. One story is that a 10-speed shifter will shift the chain off the 9-speed cassette. The other story is that the shifter doesn't care how many cogs there are, but that it controls the distance the derailleur moves and so there is a spacing incompatibility between a mis-matched derailleur/shifter pair.
Also, some of the eBay front shifters are advertised as good for either 2 or 3 speed. My understanding is that the front shifter can be one or the other but cannot be both. Is that accurate?
Lastly, what is the frequency of Shimano knock-offs on eBay? I'd hate to end up with $200 worth of junk. The link canam73 posted shows 9 sets for sale.
Anyway, thanks for all the input.
Do the shifters "know" what gear they are in or is that determined by the derailleur? I've been getting different stories from different bike shops. One story is that a 10-speed shifter will shift the chain off the 9-speed cassette. The other story is that the shifter doesn't care how many cogs there are, but that it controls the distance the derailleur moves and so there is a spacing incompatibility between a mis-matched derailleur/shifter pair.
Also, some of the eBay front shifters are advertised as good for either 2 or 3 speed. My understanding is that the front shifter can be one or the other but cannot be both. Is that accurate?
Lastly, what is the frequency of Shimano knock-offs on eBay? I'd hate to end up with $200 worth of junk. The link canam73 posted shows 9 sets for sale.
Anyway, thanks for all the input.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,411
Likes: 13
From: Haunchyville
The total space between the top and bottom gear on 8,9 and 10 speed cassettes is virtually the same. It's the spaces that matter and the shifter will move the derailleur a pre-determined amount per 'click' depending on how many speeds the shifter is. 10 will not shift the chain off a 9 speed cassette, it just won't mesh properly for most of the gears except the first and last. As for the shifter knowing what gear it's in the mechanic (or you) tells it where to start with it's first shift when you set the stop and the tension the cable and the indexing should then hit the rest.
I think my wife's r600 9sp shifters are supposed to be 2/3 compatible on the front. I believe by setting limit screw to only allow for one upshift you effectively eliminate the '3' option.
I've never heard of a branded shimano knock off shifter, but I would believe there may be some '2nds' or refurbs out there. But assuming the link I posted is for the real deal my guess would be they were ordered by a bike manufacturer but not used up in their production run.
I think my wife's r600 9sp shifters are supposed to be 2/3 compatible on the front. I believe by setting limit screw to only allow for one upshift you effectively eliminate the '3' option.
I've never heard of a branded shimano knock off shifter, but I would believe there may be some '2nds' or refurbs out there. But assuming the link I posted is for the real deal my guess would be they were ordered by a bike manufacturer but not used up in their production run.
Last edited by canam73; 11-06-11 at 09:27 PM.
#11
South Carolina Ed

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,908
Likes: 320
From: Greer, SC
Bikes: Holdsworth custom, Macario Pro, Ciocc San Cristobal, Viner Nemo, Cyfac Le Mythique, Giant TCR, Tommasso Mondial, Cyfac Etoile
There's also Microshift, which makes well regarded 9 and 10 speed Shimano-compatible shifters and derailleurs for cheap.
#12
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland, IL
I was in the same boat as you a few years ago, the shifters on my Lemond Zurich went out. I love this bike so my LBS gave me a great deal on changing everything out to dura-ace for $1,000 (crank, shifters and derailleurs). Best thing I could have done. It is like having a new bike!
#13

Seriously though, if you can get $400. for your current bike, I'd say get a new bike.
Even a Sora or Tiagra equipped bike will be eons better than what you're riding now
and give you thousands of trouble free miles.
Last edited by 2ndGen; 11-06-11 at 11:19 PM.
#14
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,410
Likes: 188
From: Tariffville, CT
Bikes: Tsunami road bikes, Dolan DF4 track
What size bike do you ride? If you're willing to buy from a shop around here, there may be a good deal (they're blowing out bikes). I like the shop but I have no business interest in them.
Remember about fit. Fit is extremely important. This is especially the case with a Lemond frame, which has a unique geometry.
If the Lemond fits you well, i.e. your saddle is mid-rail or positioned even further back, if you have a relatively normal length stem (100-120mm), then the Lemond geometry works for you (laid back seat post, longish top tube).
If your saddle is pushed forward, if you have a shorter stem, then you're riding the bike despite it not working for you. A more normal geometry frame will work as well or better.
For me, I'm the opposite of a Lemond type rider. I don't have long quads, I have short ones. I don't have a shorter torso, I have a longer one. I could get by on a Lemond but it would be far from ideal. If you're in that situation then a new bike makes sense. If the frame fits you great then you should get a new group for it.
Hope this helps,
cdr
Remember about fit. Fit is extremely important. This is especially the case with a Lemond frame, which has a unique geometry.
If the Lemond fits you well, i.e. your saddle is mid-rail or positioned even further back, if you have a relatively normal length stem (100-120mm), then the Lemond geometry works for you (laid back seat post, longish top tube).
If your saddle is pushed forward, if you have a shorter stem, then you're riding the bike despite it not working for you. A more normal geometry frame will work as well or better.
For me, I'm the opposite of a Lemond type rider. I don't have long quads, I have short ones. I don't have a shorter torso, I have a longer one. I could get by on a Lemond but it would be far from ideal. If you're in that situation then a new bike makes sense. If the frame fits you great then you should get a new group for it.
Hope this helps,
cdr
#15
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
What size bike do you ride? If you're willing to buy from a shop around here, there may be a good deal (they're blowing out bikes). I like the shop but I have no business interest in them.
Remember about fit. Fit is extremely important. This is especially the case with a Lemond frame, which has a unique geometry.
If the Lemond fits you well, i.e. your saddle is mid-rail or positioned even further back, if you have a relatively normal length stem (100-120mm), then the Lemond geometry works for you (laid back seat post, longish top tube).
If your saddle is pushed forward, if you have a shorter stem, then you're riding the bike despite it not working for you. A more normal geometry frame will work as well or better.
For me, I'm the opposite of a Lemond type rider. I don't have long quads, I have short ones. I don't have a shorter torso, I have a longer one. I could get by on a Lemond but it would be far from ideal. If you're in that situation then a new bike makes sense. If the frame fits you great then you should get a new group for it.
Hope this helps,
cdr
Remember about fit. Fit is extremely important. This is especially the case with a Lemond frame, which has a unique geometry.
If the Lemond fits you well, i.e. your saddle is mid-rail or positioned even further back, if you have a relatively normal length stem (100-120mm), then the Lemond geometry works for you (laid back seat post, longish top tube).
If your saddle is pushed forward, if you have a shorter stem, then you're riding the bike despite it not working for you. A more normal geometry frame will work as well or better.
For me, I'm the opposite of a Lemond type rider. I don't have long quads, I have short ones. I don't have a shorter torso, I have a longer one. I could get by on a Lemond but it would be far from ideal. If you're in that situation then a new bike makes sense. If the frame fits you great then you should get a new group for it.
Hope this helps,
cdr
I'm 6'2" with a 32" inseam, so I'm a bit short of leg and long of torso. My bike is a 59 and I've always felt a bit stretched out on it, but then when I got on a 58 Fuji at an LBS the other day if felt pretty similar. Go figure. I guess my perception of how a bike should fit is off. I've been messing with the saddle lately and it is at midpoint right now.
#16
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,410
Likes: 188
From: Tariffville, CT
Bikes: Tsunami road bikes, Dolan DF4 track
It does. Thanks.
I'm 6'2" with a 32" inseam, so I'm a bit short of leg and long of torso. My bike is a 59 and I've always felt a bit stretched out on it, but then when I got on a 58 Fuji at an LBS the other day if felt pretty similar. Go figure. I guess my perception of how a bike should fit is off. I've been messing with the saddle lately and it is at midpoint right now.
I'm 6'2" with a 32" inseam, so I'm a bit short of leg and long of torso. My bike is a 59 and I've always felt a bit stretched out on it, but then when I got on a 58 Fuji at an LBS the other day if felt pretty similar. Go figure. I guess my perception of how a bike should fit is off. I've been messing with the saddle lately and it is at midpoint right now.
#17
OP...you can easily go either way on this. Older bikes like a vintage Lemond either have sentimental value to you or not. If not, then you can be more clinical in your approach. If you Jones for a new bike, don't look back...sure will be easier. If you want to upgrade your Lemond, then ebay is your friend...gene pool for used and new bike parts. If you keep the bike, take it on as an opportunity to grow. Buy a bike stand and swap out parts yourself. Do research like you have started and find out exactly what you need and get it off ebay. You would be further ahead to keep the bike 9 spd and find shifters and any odd parts that you need. Piece meal off ebay is many times cheaper than buying an entire gruppo. You could even turn the bike into a fixie, townie or single speed. Lots of options and no single solution other than how you feel about it.
Have fun.
Have fun.
#19
Yes...9-10s cranks have the same space between rings...so you can convert. Another option to consider which is cheap...is lose the front derailleur completely...and LH shifter....or keep it as a brake lever and just don't run a cable to it. Run a single ring in front with outboard bash guard and inside chain retainer. I run 1 X 9 with 11-34 cassette on my 29er and honestly the bike is just about as fast as a std road bike with skinny tires. If you do a lot of climbing however...2 rings in front makes more sense if you must have short gear inches. I run a 38t front single ring on my middle position of triple SLX crank. The only reason why I don't run a 1 X 10 set up on my roadbike btw, isn't about the riding I do...1 X 10 would be fine. I run a compact in front so I can keep up with friends for the fastest gearing including descending. For just general flatish riding 1 X 9 is fine in my experience.
#20
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Joined: Nov 2011
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Yes...9-10s cranks have the same space between rings...so you can convert. Another option to consider which is cheap...is lose the front derailleur completely...and LH shifter....or keep it as a brake lever and just don't run a cable to it. Run a single ring in front with outboard bash guard and inside chain retainer. I run 1 X 9 with 11-34 cassette on my 29er and honestly the bike is just about as fast as a std road bike with skinny tires. If you do a lot of climbing however...2 rings in front makes more sense if you must have short gear inches. I run a 38t front single ring on my middle position of triple SLX crank. The only reason why I don't run a 1 X 10 set up on my roadbike btw, isn't about the riding I do...1 X 10 would be fine. I run a compact in front so I can keep up with friends for the fastest gearing including descending. For just general flatish riding 1 X 9 is fine in my experience.
#22
https://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...d4438-qc49.htm
Tiagra 9sp shifter, still available from QBP. $150 for the right, $335 / $350 for a full set.
Tiagra only went 10sp a few months ago, so the 9sp should still be available for a little bit.
Tiagra 9sp shifter, still available from QBP. $150 for the right, $335 / $350 for a full set.
Tiagra only went 10sp a few months ago, so the 9sp should still be available for a little bit.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,411
Likes: 13
From: Haunchyville
https://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...d4438-qc49.htm
Tiagra 9sp shifter, still available from QBP. $150 for the right, $335 / $350 for a full set.
Tiagra only went 10sp a few months ago, so the 9sp should still be available for a little bit.
Tiagra 9sp shifter, still available from QBP. $150 for the right, $335 / $350 for a full set.
Tiagra only went 10sp a few months ago, so the 9sp should still be available for a little bit.
#24
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Joined: Nov 2011
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Wow, BikeForums has really made this difficult. I was almost to the point that I thought I should build my own frame (the framebuilding section is awesome). New vs used vs upgrade. Steel vs. aluminum vs. carbon. Style vs. substance. Weight matters vs. weight doesn't (my LeMond weights 22lbs). Holy crap I was getting mixed up.
So anyway, I finally decide to eBay my way to new 9-speed shifters and a new compact crankset. I already have a SRAM Force crankset, but still need the bottom bracket for it. I was thinking that if I could get the LeMond to 20lbs or below and get a shorter stem to bring the bars back to me a little I could live with it for a while yet. Then I can justify a tri-bike next summer.
It appears that losing approx. 900 grams is going to be a huge challenge. Stem, seat post, crankset, BB, and brakes/shifters are the only places I can realistically shed weight right now. Not sure I can find 900 in those places without spending as much as a new bike.
I do have a question about shifters. I found some 105 5510 shifters for $150, but I also spotted soem Dura-Ace down tube shifters for $90. I haven't ridden a bike with down tube shifters in almost 20 years so I don't remember what it was like. I've got my own ideas, but what does BF's best and brightest think about downtube versus brifters?
So anyway, I finally decide to eBay my way to new 9-speed shifters and a new compact crankset. I already have a SRAM Force crankset, but still need the bottom bracket for it. I was thinking that if I could get the LeMond to 20lbs or below and get a shorter stem to bring the bars back to me a little I could live with it for a while yet. Then I can justify a tri-bike next summer.

It appears that losing approx. 900 grams is going to be a huge challenge. Stem, seat post, crankset, BB, and brakes/shifters are the only places I can realistically shed weight right now. Not sure I can find 900 in those places without spending as much as a new bike.
I do have a question about shifters. I found some 105 5510 shifters for $150, but I also spotted soem Dura-Ace down tube shifters for $90. I haven't ridden a bike with down tube shifters in almost 20 years so I don't remember what it was like. I've got my own ideas, but what does BF's best and brightest think about downtube versus brifters?
#25
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,411
Likes: 13
From: Haunchyville




