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Dilemma

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Old 11-06-11 | 12:02 PM
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Dilemma

I'm in a bit of quandary an so thought I'd see what the bet and brightest of BF might have to say.

The short of it is that I need to decide between replacing the group set on my bike or replace the bike all together.

Now for the back story: I have a mid-90's LeMond Buenos Aires with the original 9-speed 105 group set on it. Aside from wheels (Aksium Race), saddle, cables/housings, and bar tape, it is original. The shifter for the rear has given up the ghost and per a couple local LBS's if I get a new shifter it will be 10-speed (9-speed is no longer made and I don't want Tiagra) and so I'll need a new rear derailleur, new rear cassette, and new chain. But because the old crankset won't work with a 10-speed chain, I'll need to replace the crankset as well. Also, the headset needs to be reworked. At this point I might as well change out the entire group set for $950 (including LBS build).

Well, one of my LBS's offered $400 for the bike. That basically gives me a $1350 allowance. A couple hundred more and I can get a very well equipped carbon Scattante or Motobecane . But, after perusing BF for a while doing research on factory direct bikes, the LeMond enthusiasts over in Vintage have me second guessing the replacement option. Also, one of the Vintage threads mentioned finding NOS components.

So, my options are:

1) Keep the LeMond and have a LBS replace the groupset for me (I have neither the time nor experience to do so myself).

2) Track down some NOS 9-speed shifters (potentially a low probability of success endeavor).

3) Replace my bike with a Scattante/Motobecane/Paramount/Fuji.

What say yea oh gods of the biking interweb?
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Old 11-06-11 | 12:13 PM
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It's easy to find 9 speed shifters on ebay, but if you do go 10 speed your crank will be fine. You could go DT, or bar end as well to save some money.

If you like the bike it's not much of a dilemma...if you just want a new bike, that's okay too.
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Old 11-06-11 | 12:15 PM
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ebay.

Someone was selling a dura-ace 9 speed brifter set for < 100 this week.
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Old 11-06-11 | 12:27 PM
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for that kinda money why waste it on a scattante or moto,get a nice brand not some lower rep
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Old 11-06-11 | 12:38 PM
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Your 9sp crank and rear derailleur will work with 10sp. The front derailleur will work too but not quite as well as a 10sp one.

9sp shifters are common on ebay.
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Old 11-06-11 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Spinjack
2) Track down some NOS 9-speed shifters (potentially a low probability of success endeavor).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Shimano-...9#ht_500wt_969
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Old 11-06-11 | 02:36 PM
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Not sure about being "best and brightest" but I also suggest NOS (or gently used, but ideally NOS) 9 speed shifters from scambay.
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Old 11-06-11 | 05:07 PM
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I say option 3.

Technology has moved on - move with it (and get the advantage of a full warranty).

You won't be sorry.



All IM(very)HO...
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Old 11-06-11 | 09:05 PM
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I didn't think about the eBay route. I'm surprised at how much new old stuff is on there.

Do the shifters "know" what gear they are in or is that determined by the derailleur? I've been getting different stories from different bike shops. One story is that a 10-speed shifter will shift the chain off the 9-speed cassette. The other story is that the shifter doesn't care how many cogs there are, but that it controls the distance the derailleur moves and so there is a spacing incompatibility between a mis-matched derailleur/shifter pair.

Also, some of the eBay front shifters are advertised as good for either 2 or 3 speed. My understanding is that the front shifter can be one or the other but cannot be both. Is that accurate?

Lastly, what is the frequency of Shimano knock-offs on eBay? I'd hate to end up with $200 worth of junk. The link canam73 posted shows 9 sets for sale.

Anyway, thanks for all the input.
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Old 11-06-11 | 09:23 PM
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The total space between the top and bottom gear on 8,9 and 10 speed cassettes is virtually the same. It's the spaces that matter and the shifter will move the derailleur a pre-determined amount per 'click' depending on how many speeds the shifter is. 10 will not shift the chain off a 9 speed cassette, it just won't mesh properly for most of the gears except the first and last. As for the shifter knowing what gear it's in the mechanic (or you) tells it where to start with it's first shift when you set the stop and the tension the cable and the indexing should then hit the rest.

I think my wife's r600 9sp shifters are supposed to be 2/3 compatible on the front. I believe by setting limit screw to only allow for one upshift you effectively eliminate the '3' option.

I've never heard of a branded shimano knock off shifter, but I would believe there may be some '2nds' or refurbs out there. But assuming the link I posted is for the real deal my guess would be they were ordered by a bike manufacturer but not used up in their production run.

Last edited by canam73; 11-06-11 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 11-06-11 | 09:37 PM
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There's also Microshift, which makes well regarded 9 and 10 speed Shimano-compatible shifters and derailleurs for cheap.
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Old 11-06-11 | 11:12 PM
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I was in the same boat as you a few years ago, the shifters on my Lemond Zurich went out. I love this bike so my LBS gave me a great deal on changing everything out to dura-ace for $1,000 (crank, shifters and derailleurs). Best thing I could have done. It is like having a new bike!
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Old 11-06-11 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Spinjack

4) Replace my bike with a CAAD10.

What say yea oh gods of the biking interweb?
I like #4.



Seriously though, if you can get $400. for your current bike, I'd say get a new bike.
Even a Sora or Tiagra equipped bike will be eons better than what you're riding now
and give you thousands of trouble free miles.

Last edited by 2ndGen; 11-06-11 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 11-07-11 | 06:19 AM
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What size bike do you ride? If you're willing to buy from a shop around here, there may be a good deal (they're blowing out bikes). I like the shop but I have no business interest in them.

Remember about fit. Fit is extremely important. This is especially the case with a Lemond frame, which has a unique geometry.

If the Lemond fits you well, i.e. your saddle is mid-rail or positioned even further back, if you have a relatively normal length stem (100-120mm), then the Lemond geometry works for you (laid back seat post, longish top tube).

If your saddle is pushed forward, if you have a shorter stem, then you're riding the bike despite it not working for you. A more normal geometry frame will work as well or better.

For me, I'm the opposite of a Lemond type rider. I don't have long quads, I have short ones. I don't have a shorter torso, I have a longer one. I could get by on a Lemond but it would be far from ideal. If you're in that situation then a new bike makes sense. If the frame fits you great then you should get a new group for it.

Hope this helps,
cdr
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Old 11-07-11 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by carpediemracing
What size bike do you ride? If you're willing to buy from a shop around here, there may be a good deal (they're blowing out bikes). I like the shop but I have no business interest in them.

Remember about fit. Fit is extremely important. This is especially the case with a Lemond frame, which has a unique geometry.

If the Lemond fits you well, i.e. your saddle is mid-rail or positioned even further back, if you have a relatively normal length stem (100-120mm), then the Lemond geometry works for you (laid back seat post, longish top tube).

If your saddle is pushed forward, if you have a shorter stem, then you're riding the bike despite it not working for you. A more normal geometry frame will work as well or better.

For me, I'm the opposite of a Lemond type rider. I don't have long quads, I have short ones. I don't have a shorter torso, I have a longer one. I could get by on a Lemond but it would be far from ideal. If you're in that situation then a new bike makes sense. If the frame fits you great then you should get a new group for it.

Hope this helps,
cdr
It does. Thanks.

I'm 6'2" with a 32" inseam, so I'm a bit short of leg and long of torso. My bike is a 59 and I've always felt a bit stretched out on it, but then when I got on a 58 Fuji at an LBS the other day if felt pretty similar. Go figure. I guess my perception of how a bike should fit is off. I've been messing with the saddle lately and it is at midpoint right now.
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Old 11-07-11 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Spinjack
It does. Thanks.

I'm 6'2" with a 32" inseam, so I'm a bit short of leg and long of torso. My bike is a 59 and I've always felt a bit stretched out on it, but then when I got on a 58 Fuji at an LBS the other day if felt pretty similar. Go figure. I guess my perception of how a bike should fit is off. I've been messing with the saddle lately and it is at midpoint right now.
I'm similar to you, as I mentioned above. In this case I'd look for a different frame, one that has a longer top tube for a given seat tube (or effective seat tube if it's a compact geometry frame). This would mean getting a different bike, realistically speaking.
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Old 11-07-11 | 10:20 AM
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OP...you can easily go either way on this. Older bikes like a vintage Lemond either have sentimental value to you or not. If not, then you can be more clinical in your approach. If you Jones for a new bike, don't look back...sure will be easier. If you want to upgrade your Lemond, then ebay is your friend...gene pool for used and new bike parts. If you keep the bike, take it on as an opportunity to grow. Buy a bike stand and swap out parts yourself. Do research like you have started and find out exactly what you need and get it off ebay. You would be further ahead to keep the bike 9 spd and find shifters and any odd parts that you need. Piece meal off ebay is many times cheaper than buying an entire gruppo. You could even turn the bike into a fixie, townie or single speed. Lots of options and no single solution other than how you feel about it.
Have fun.
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Old 11-07-11 | 11:31 AM
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So, will at 10-speed crankset accept a 9-speed chain? If I keep the LeMond I'll want to dump the triple and get a compact double.

I think I'm getting a clearer picture. thanks for all the input.
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Old 11-07-11 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Spinjack
So, will at 10-speed crankset accept a 9-speed chain? If I keep the LeMond I'll want to dump the triple and get a compact double.

I think I'm getting a clearer picture. thanks for all the input.
Yes...9-10s cranks have the same space between rings...so you can convert. Another option to consider which is cheap...is lose the front derailleur completely...and LH shifter....or keep it as a brake lever and just don't run a cable to it. Run a single ring in front with outboard bash guard and inside chain retainer. I run 1 X 9 with 11-34 cassette on my 29er and honestly the bike is just about as fast as a std road bike with skinny tires. If you do a lot of climbing however...2 rings in front makes more sense if you must have short gear inches. I run a 38t front single ring on my middle position of triple SLX crank. The only reason why I don't run a 1 X 10 set up on my roadbike btw, isn't about the riding I do...1 X 10 would be fine. I run a compact in front so I can keep up with friends for the fastest gearing including descending. For just general flatish riding 1 X 9 is fine in my experience.
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Old 11-07-11 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life
Yes...9-10s cranks have the same space between rings...so you can convert. Another option to consider which is cheap...is lose the front derailleur completely...and LH shifter....or keep it as a brake lever and just don't run a cable to it. Run a single ring in front with outboard bash guard and inside chain retainer. I run 1 X 9 with 11-34 cassette on my 29er and honestly the bike is just about as fast as a std road bike with skinny tires. If you do a lot of climbing however...2 rings in front makes more sense if you must have short gear inches. I run a 38t front single ring on my middle position of triple SLX crank. The only reason why I don't run a 1 X 10 set up on my roadbike btw, isn't about the riding I do...1 X 10 would be fine. I run a compact in front so I can keep up with friends for the fastest gearing including descending. For just general flatish riding 1 X 9 is fine in my experience.
Interesting idea. Especially considering that I spend 99% of the time in the middle ring with the exception of fast downhills and flats with a strong tail wind. My only concern would being using a single ring for the occasional triathlon.
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Old 11-07-11 | 02:48 PM
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Keep the bike, upgrade it as required, and buy a new one to ride while you're wrenching the Lemond.
then you can have a rain bike when you're done. and you'll learn a ton.
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Old 11-07-11 | 03:46 PM
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https://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...d4438-qc49.htm

Tiagra 9sp shifter, still available from QBP. $150 for the right, $335 / $350 for a full set.

Tiagra only went 10sp a few months ago, so the 9sp should still be available for a little bit.
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Old 11-07-11 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bacciagalupe
https://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...d4438-qc49.htm

Tiagra 9sp shifter, still available from QBP. $150 for the right, $335 / $350 for a full set.

Tiagra only went 10sp a few months ago, so the 9sp should still be available for a little bit.
I think by 9sp no longer made the OP meant 105 5500. As for Tiagra the OP says he just doesn't want it.
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Old 11-19-11 | 07:57 PM
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Wow, BikeForums has really made this difficult. I was almost to the point that I thought I should build my own frame (the framebuilding section is awesome). New vs used vs upgrade. Steel vs. aluminum vs. carbon. Style vs. substance. Weight matters vs. weight doesn't (my LeMond weights 22lbs). Holy crap I was getting mixed up.

So anyway, I finally decide to eBay my way to new 9-speed shifters and a new compact crankset. I already have a SRAM Force crankset, but still need the bottom bracket for it. I was thinking that if I could get the LeMond to 20lbs or below and get a shorter stem to bring the bars back to me a little I could live with it for a while yet. Then I can justify a tri-bike next summer.

It appears that losing approx. 900 grams is going to be a huge challenge. Stem, seat post, crankset, BB, and brakes/shifters are the only places I can realistically shed weight right now. Not sure I can find 900 in those places without spending as much as a new bike.

I do have a question about shifters. I found some 105 5510 shifters for $150, but I also spotted soem Dura-Ace down tube shifters for $90. I haven't ridden a bike with down tube shifters in almost 20 years so I don't remember what it was like. I've got my own ideas, but what does BF's best and brightest think about downtube versus brifters?
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Old 11-19-11 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Spinjack
I've got my own ideas, but what does BF's best and brightest think about downtube versus brifters?
I have a DT shifting bike that I use for solo rides and I'm happy enough. But when I ride with a large and/or fast group I only use brifters.
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