keidal

This is how I re-finish a frame.
It's not the only way, but I've been doing this now for over sixty years [100+ frames] and it suits - my time available [this is a full-time hobby], the very basic tools that I use [have] and the end result.
Over the decades I've tried many alternatives, some short-cuts, but I've been using this technique now for quite some years and to achieve the final result, takes time but at the moment I have plenty to spare.
I do not use "mechaical /electrical" tool; everything is done by hand.
I use a pen-knife, a Stanley-type knife, a "scrawker" and Aluminium oxide paper and a Carborundum stick. The scrawker is in my case a modified 1/4" triangular file, which decades ago a friend made for me by grinding each side to a long pointed end. It seems to be self sharpening, because I've never sharpened it. So keep both the knife blades sharp.
I remove everything from the frame, including the head badge if possible by drilling out the rivets or by filing them flat inside the head-tube with a long rat-tail file and gently prising the badge off, helped by paraffin. I have a length of brass bar about 1" diameter which I use to knock out the headset bits in the frame. If the head badge looks as if it will not move. eg. the Boulin badge, then I use very small bits of sticky tape to cover it. I clean all threads with paraffin and when dry, I use a small wire brush and the point of the pen-knife to clean the threads up.
I clean the lugs, bottom bracket and drop-outs first by scraping and I go into every crevice and clean out the dirt, old paint, rust and brazing residue crust [whatever it is]. If there are file marks or excess brazing, I file them down reasonably smooth. I then use the Aluminium oxide paper in small pieces to get a decent smooth finish to the steel. It usually takes me a day to get this far and the scrawker is invaluable to poke into every corner !
I then use the Stanley-type knife to get the same off all the tubes, holding it almost parallel to the tubes - use long strokes from the centre right up to the lugs. Finish off with A o paper, as for the lugs. If there are any dings, I use quick acting 2 pack "plastic metal" and after half an hour, file it down to a rough shape finishing wit A o paper wrapped around a piece of wood.
If there remains any rust anywhere [there usually isn't] I paint the whole frame with quick dry Kurust which supposedly neutralizes the rust. It dries in about a quarter of an hour.
I wash the frame with water and a small amount of washing-up liquid, rinse it with warm water, dry it quickly with kitchen paper and if a house radiator is not warm, I use an old hair dryer.
The frame is kept in the house, where it is warm and where it will not visibly rust - and where it can be admired after many hours of grafting.
to be continued tomorrow, because I'm not a typist and it's the painting time !

non-fixie 

Looking forward to the results!

keidal

I will make an effort this weekend to explain what I do to the old frames !

bikebaer67

... wow.. for regular superficial rust spots, I am a friend of Dremel and Co and small rotary brass brushes.. but encountering a full rust job with one or two of my old frames soon, I am looking forward to keidals further explanations....
The tools he uses seem quite rough, but grinding a seat post lately, I figured out damaging it is nearly impossible.. so, I am eager on his further explanation... especially None-repainting alternatives..

keidal

These notes reflect the way in which I re-paint etc. old bicycle frames. I have developed these procedures over many decades and they suit me.
Obviously there are many other techniques etc. which can and are used, but mine suit me and I use them at all times.
I do not use shot or grit blasting on frames because in my opinion they are too abrasive. For the same reason I don't use electrical wire brushes and similar machines. All the stripping is done manually and typically takes about three [short] working days. I have the time available to do the job manually, so I don't need the help of machinery.
For the preparation of the frame ready to paint, I have only a few basic tools and they serve my needs.
I use a pen-knife, a "Stanley-type" knife, a scrawker - mine was made by a friend decades ago and has never been sharpened from new. It is a 3-sided long pointed tool ground down from a 1/4" piece of mild steel and hardened; it has a wood handle.
I also use Aluminium oxide paper and wet and dry paper.
I remove everything from the frame that I can - and that means usually everything. I have a length of hefty brass rod to knock-out cups and races etc. I clean thoroughly the bottom bracket with paraffin, especially the threads and I use the tip of the pen-knife to clean out the threads.
I start on the lugs, drop-outs and about 1" of adjacent tubing and clear every bit of old paint and muck etc., using the scrawker to clean the fancy bits and brazed joints, making certain that the brazing flux, oxides or whatever it is, is removed. I don't leave a scrap of old paint.
I then tackle the tubes and using the Stanley knife with the blade held almost flat along the tube, I scrape in long strokes from the centre to the lugs etc. It only removes very thin strips at a time, but eventually it's gone and I finish off with the Aluminium oxide paper to clean the tubes. I then gently rub the tubes and everything else with fine grade wet and dry paper - used dry to remove all traces of paint.
If there is any rust, I try to remove as much as possible with anything handy and then treat it with quick-drying Kurust from Halfords in the UK. If there are any dings, I fill them with quick drying 2 pack "plastic metal" and rub them down with A o paper, held on a piece of flat wood until perfectly smooth.
Finally, I clean the frame with warm damp [water] on sheets of kitchen paper and let it dry in the sun or in front of a radiator in the house, or with a hair dryer !
When I'm ready to paint, I always warm the metal forks and frame, usually with the hair dryer - or over the gas cooker ! My paint applying technique requires warmth ie. for quick drying. I rub down between each coat with different grades of wet and dry paper - used wet and dried off immediately with the kitchen paper.
Before applying anything I put cut up toilet roll centre tube in the bottom bracket and Kitchen roll centre tube in the head tube and seat ube, using tape wrapped around the tube to hold it in place as best it will. I cover the head badge with tape if I can't remove it by filing down the rivets in the head tube.
I will post this now and continue on a new reply !

keidal

I now use spray can paint, rather than enamel brush applied paint. I buy it from Halfords and if I can't find the correct car colour paint on the shelves, I search through their colour books and have it specially made-up.
This is my technique, which is different to what the manufacturers' recommend and it applies to primer, top coat and clear gloss :-
I warm the metal and spray from a distance of about 4" or 100 mm using quick passes down / up or along left to right and right to left.
This gives a decent coverage of paint and I move the frame or forks about in all directions to avoid runs - and it works !
With the forks I cover the steerer tube with tape and start by holding the blade ends, spraying up to the underside of the crown and the top inside of the blades. I then hold the steerer tube and spray the top / sides of the crown and then the blades, twiddling it around etc. to stop the paint forming runs.
For the frame, I hold the seat tube and spray as much as I can. Later I spray the seat tube and any bits that I've missed.
I usually apply two coats of primer, grey for light colours, red for dark colours and white for white / pale colours.
Then at least three coats of top / finish coat and at least two coats of clear varnish. It takes quite a time but warming is the secret.
If I can't buy decals anywhere, I design my own [eg Boulin] using dafont.com type faces - typing in the name I want for the decal, select medium and alternatives and see you decals appear on the screen, from hundreds of type faces.
Andrew, at -- andrew@seventy2design.com will manufacture your choice in any colour and any size. If you can provide details, in the flat, of any badges etc. he will probably have a go at those.
info@flandriabikes.com will also do decals for you in the same manner.
After a few days, I give the decals a quick flash with the clear varnish and if I've polished the head badge brass etc. it too gets a coat of clear varnish.
That's all for now folks - I'll do it my way, as the song goes, I think !
Good luck with yours.

keidal

Re. rusty seat pins and all the other mild steel bits, including frames and forks, I scrape as much of the "crusty" bits / areas of rust off with a "Stanley" type knife as I can, keeping it sharp with a carborundum stick. I then use Aluminium oxide paper to get rid of the remainder of the rust. A o paper soon goes "blunt" and this is ideal for keeping for the final treatment, before using wet and dry paper - wet to finish.
Do not use any sort of metal polish as this will attack the steel and leave it almost black - not the desired effect for the clear varnish treatment.
If the frame is virtually all rust, after removing it I paint the whole frame and forks with Kurust and after half an hour, wash the frame in warm water - then dry quickly by any means you fancy. A hair dryer is ideal.
I'm not a fan of sand or grit-blasting frames, or using mechanical electrical wire brushes and the like - they are too drastic for my liking and not only do the destroy sharp edges, they all make horrible dust in the air which seems to get everywhere.
I'm not a great fan of re-plating, it is costly and the platers seem to have long waiting times, unless you pay the extra premium.
Use a pen-knife blade gently on rusty chrome or nickel plated steel and see the improvement straight away. If mine are just minor spots of rust, I'll use a chrome cleaner, otherwise it gets the clear varnish treatment.

non-fixie 

Thanks for the elaborate explanation, @keidal. I have a nice candidate frame to give this a try.

keidal

This is how I apply self-adhesive decals to frames.
I cut the excess off each end [approximately leaving 0.5 mm each end "spare"] and I measure the final overall length. I cut two lengths of sticky tape about 90+ mm long and wrap one piece around the tube at the end position of the decal. It takes me a few attempts to judge the 90 degree angle to the frame, to get both ends of the tape to meet. Then add 2 mm to the overall length of the decal and place the other piece of tape around the frame, in the same manner.
I press hard on the letters etc. with the back of my thumb / finger nail before removing the backing to make sure that letters come away from the backing.
Prop the frame up and looking past any tube in the way, judge the centre of the tube and mark the tape. Repeat at the other piece of tape.
Lay the frame down and place a ruler or similar between both marks and judge a] is it parallel to the tube and b] is it really in the centre of the tube. Look at it from both sides. If you're satisfied and you only have one decal to apply, mark the centre of the decal and apply it.
If you have two decals to apply, one on either side of the tube, take two small bits of tape about 30 mm long and make a mark roughly in the centre of each. Decide how far apart you want the decals [I make mine usually 12 mm apart] and make a mark on the tape, either side of the centre mark = half the distance eg 6 mm.
Stick both bits of tape on top of the long bits at both ends, so that the centre marks line up. Now use the ruler and make a short line on the small pieces of tape and these will be the guide lies for the top of the decal. Draw a line along the top of the decal from one end to the other, before removing the backing paper.
You can now apply the decal between the sticky paper, using the guide lines and starting carefully at one end, lining up the other end before dropping it in place. Remove the tape at both ends after pressing the decal firmly down - I use a folded paper handkerchief to press on.
This is a lot of messing about, even call it careful preparation but the finished result will be as near perfect as you can get - it works every time for me; so I hope that it does for you.
Good luck, because they're not cheap to buy !

keidal

Some of my recent frames, all prepared, painted and with decals which I had produced for me.
If you give it a try - good luck.