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What gearing changes should I make to my Tarmac for better climbing in Maine?

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

What gearing changes should I make to my Tarmac for better climbing in Maine?

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Old 04-13-20, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by banerjek
I'd be careful about going over max.

While you often can do it, this sounds like a great way to increase your exposure to the sort of bad luck that can put your RD in your spokes.

Better to get the right tool for the job and ride with confidence IMO
To clarify, I don't do it myself, but LBS guys do. They've done it "countless" times, and in Boulder CO they have a huge amount of experience. YMMV :-)
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Old 04-15-20, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by banerjek
This is a great hill setup.

The deal with steep areas is that you tend to be in the bottom of your low gears or the top of your high ones. This means that midrange selectivity isn't so important -- and when it is, you can just swap in a narrower cassette because the extreme ends won't be so useful in such riding situations.

If 34x34 isn't enough to get you up those hills, a smaller ring combo up front (probably requiring a new crank) will probably be the ticket. Spinning out in high gears is really not an issue. Even with a 46 big ring, you don't spin out until 40mph -- at which point aero rather than your ability to spin the pedals is what's holding you back.
I agree - it is a great hill set up - I just got it back yesterday and I've ridden it twice, does just what I want it to do. Am able to use the two hardest gears on downhill/tail wind sections without spinning out up to about 35 mph which is fine, I'm not sprinting in a race.
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Old 04-15-20, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
In the spirit of every gearing discussion ever, 36x28 is good enough for me so it's all the low end anyone needs.

Having just made the change from 52/36 & 11/28 to 50/34 & 11/34 I truly appreciate your comment, and I believe I am going to use it as the quote on my profile from now on if you don't mind, as that does perfectly sum up everything that's been said here.
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Old 04-15-20, 07:36 PM
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Ok, so I disappeared for a week or more while waiting for the parts to come in and then be installed. I went with the LBS in Rockland Maine (SideCountry Sports) which was a great choice - I am really happy with the entire experience there.

SO what I ended up doing was keeping my FSA crank and changing the front chainrings to 50/34 (down from the 52/36), a new 105 rear derailleur, chain, and 11/34 cassette (instead of 11/28). I've ridden it twice and I am really happy with it - I found that I am able to keep it in a harder gear while on the small front ring and either climb out of the saddle or just sit and climb easier. Even keeping it in the 34/28 is easier than what I had before as my lowest gear so basically I picked up another three or four easier low end gears that allow me to really slow down and just breathe while climbing, or go with a lot more aggression at hills because everything is a little easier. I was able to do a fairly long stretch slightly downhill with a tailwind and in 2nd to hardest gear ride at about 27mph at 100rpm. Overall this was the ideal solution for me, thank you to everyone who provided their opinions and advice, I appreciate all of it.
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Old 04-15-20, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedyBlueBiker
My Specialized Tarmac is stock with a 52/36 up front and a 11-30 cassette in the rear. I've used this on several very long 100+ mile rides with long mountain pass climbs. Has served me well and no difficulty in climbing long grades 10+ miles at 7-8% incline. If I was to make any change it would be to a 11-32 rear cassette just for the added gearing on a big hill. No plans to do that though.

My much older LeMond Zurich is a triple with 52/42/30 and a 12-25 cassette. I rarely ever used the 30 up front. Once climbed a short half mile hill in 30/25 that was at 14-15% grade. Biggest problem was keeping the front wheel down!
Thanks for your input - I was starting to be able to slog my way up the hills/mountains in the 32/28 gear and admittedly a fair amount of my difficulty was my form and the fact that where I came from had virtually no elevation but I felt that with a more balanced drivetrain I would be able to ride more to my strengths and from what I've experienced with it so far I made the right choice. It's not that I'm necessarily using the 34/34 very much but it's certainly nice that it's there - perhaps the 11/32 or even the 11/30 would have worked along with the smaller rings, and that was my original plan. Without being able to fully put it into words yet due to the newness of the set up I am able to "hammer" more up the hills than I could before. I think that with time this is going to be a faster set up and have a lot more usable gearing.
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Old 04-16-20, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jdishner
Having just made the change from 52/36 & 11/28 to 50/34 & 11/34 I truly appreciate your comment, and I believe I am going to use it as the quote on my profile from now on if you don't mind, as that does perfectly sum up everything that's been said here.
I'd be honored.
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Old 04-16-20, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
I'd be honored.
Cheers!!
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Old 04-17-20, 01:21 AM
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I currently have Cannondale Hollowtech crank off a 2012 Supersix Evo. The current chainrings are FSA 50/34. They are 110BCD 5 bolt. I would like to switch to 48/32 chainrings. Bike is 10 speed dura ace. I see Praxis Works Buzz chainrings as an option. Cassette is 11/28, and it's the lowest the RD can go.

Could anyone please recommend some other choices that are hopefully cheaper and still good quality.

Many thanks
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Old 04-17-20, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Champ340
They are 110BCD 5 bolt. I would like to switch to 48/32 chainrings. Bike is 10 speed dura ace. I see Praxis Works Buzz chainrings as an option.
Are you sure that the Praxis Works Buzz chainrings would actually fit? 110BCD 5-bolt cranks only normally support down to a 33T small ring, and even that is flying pretty close to the sun: most manufacturers peg 34T as the minimum. The 48-32 Buzz chainrings rely on special milling on Praxis cranksets in order to work, they're not compatible with most 110BCD cranks.

You'll likely need a new crankset.
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Old 04-18-20, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by HTupolev
Are you sure that the Praxis Works Buzz chainrings would actually fit? 110BCD 5-bolt cranks only normally support down to a 33T small ring, and even that is flying pretty close to the sun: most manufacturers peg 34T as the minimum. The 48-32 Buzz chainrings rely on special milling on Praxis cranksets in order to work, they're not compatible with most 110BCD cranks.

You'll likely need a new crankset.
Thank you very much for the heads-up. I will contact them and see if they are compatible. Any other rings that would be compatible?
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Old 04-18-20, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Champ340
Any other rings that would be compatible?
Probably not.

The issue here isn't that Praxis wanted to use a proprietary scheme that's incompatible with most cranksets. It's that it's impossible to mount a practical 32T chainring to a traditional 110BCD crank spider. The reason that 110BCD chainrings from most manufacturers don't go lower than 33T or 34T isn't that most manufacturers are stupid or don't care, it's that there's not a reasonable way to make it work without using a weirdly-modified crankset like what the Praxis chainrings require. You're trying to use a chainring smaller than what your crankset was designed to accept.

Last edited by HTupolev; 04-18-20 at 01:19 AM.
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