How many gears is too many?
#126
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#127
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And even that can change with mood. Sometimes, I want to ride my bikes with 2x6 gearing. Sometimes 2x11.
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#128
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That might be a bit harsh. It depends on the kinds of numbers you prefer.
60 is composite, colossally abundant and superabundant, so it’s a fairly special number.
59 (and 61) are both sexy primes (53 and 67 are also prime) so they are also special.
42 may be the answer to the ultimate question of life, the Universe and everything, but 43 is both a sexy prime and part of a prime triplet (37 and 41 are also prime), so it’s pretty cool, too.
Still, even 42 is too many, IMO. 😊
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60 is composite, colossally abundant and superabundant, so it’s a fairly special number.
59 (and 61) are both sexy primes (53 and 67 are also prime) so they are also special.
42 may be the answer to the ultimate question of life, the Universe and everything, but 43 is both a sexy prime and part of a prime triplet (37 and 41 are also prime), so it’s pretty cool, too.
Still, even 42 is too many, IMO. 😊
Otto
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Can’t see much overlap.
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TWO gears is the right answer. One for the flats at 80 rpm (at endurance output of 80% of FTP), and one for steepest uphill YOU will encounter at 80rpm (at endurance output). Anything more than TWO is just for ease or speed. If there's no hills (aka Florida), then ONE is the right answer.
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#134
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Now I can't imagine life without my 2x11 Di2, spinning up 9% grades with a 1:1 ratio, and flying down with a 1:4.55, and dumping the whole cassette with a single press and hold of a button. So I've learned to embrace ease and speed, but I'd survive without them in my life.
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All you have to do is to look at a snowmobile driveline, and envision something lighter that was calibrated to the torque and speed of a rider and bicycle.
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I think his point is that any ratios ~1 gear inch different (or ~2% or so) are meaninglessly different. They are effictively duplicates.
Here: Same data viewed in a different format.
Here: Same data viewed in a different format.
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I think his point is that any ratios ~1 gear inch different (or ~2% or so) are meaninglessly different. They are effictively duplicates.
Here: Same data viewed in a different format.
Here: Same data viewed in a different format.
The biggest issue I see with indyfabz' chart is big jumps, particularly at the ends. The chart indicates why 3x11 would be a superior touring/randonneurring set-up.
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I think his point is that any ratios ~1 gear inch different (or ~2% or so) are meaninglessly different. They are effictively duplicates.
Here: Same data viewed in a different format.
Here: Same data viewed in a different format.
Last edited by indyfabz; 11-18-21 at 12:07 PM.
#141
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I got the cog numbers from Shimano cassettes I found on line since I am not at home to count mine. I am assuming they are what I actually have. I would definitely like to tighten it up at the low end, especially since I have gotten older and don't train (as) much. Don't really care about the very high end. Even when touring or commuting on flat roads I am not concerned about the high end. On steep descents I am almost always coasting anyway.
#143
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252 gears, 3000% range, couple of years back, off the shelf parts:
#144
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yeah, but as we all know, it is a combination of available ratios and ease of access. The bugaboo of "overlap" matters when you have a 2x6 .... a 2x11 or 3x9, not so much. In fact, as I have said too wordily elsewhere, I have always liked knowing where near duplicates were so i could pre-shift---get into teh top of the small ring from the middle of the big ring at the base of a tough climb, for instance, or go from the middle of the small ring to the bottom of the big ring when i was coming to a corner so i could maximize ease of acceleration out of it.
The biggest issue I see with indyfabz' chart is big jumps, particularly at the ends. The chart indicates why 3x11 would be a superior touring/randonneurring set-up.
The biggest issue I see with indyfabz' chart is big jumps, particularly at the ends. The chart indicates why 3x11 would be a superior touring/randonneurring set-up.
If it were me, & I too were bound by minimalism I'd do away with the middle ring altogether & live with regular double shifts if there was that one "magic" ratio I needed. The environment in practice is such that most times, by the time you find it, or can get to that magical ratio needed, the goal posts have moved. Long steady climbs, with heavy loads & lots of time to figure it all out (like a mountain pass) being the exception for the bulk of the miles rode by bicycle buying public. Such is life.
Cross-chaining be damned, (shamefully, myself included) people often tend to operate their bicycle as a 1x high range & 1x low range, & in the case of a triple a 1x midrange anyway. It's no wonder the middle ring has fallen out of favor as a redundent production cost, on a marginal gain, most customers don't know how to use properly anyway.
I'm seriously tempted. Just so that I have it around for a future project.
Last edited by base2; 11-18-21 at 12:48 PM.
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Very true, which is why I think my situation is out of the ordinary when it comes to my view on triples for the type of touring I sometimes do. Road bike-wise, I have no desire for a triple.
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And, except for the very outer range each way, you can get around through your range with a lot less physical shifting. That's important for all day riding. Most importantly, you have options to match the grade or wind when enduring the slogs you are talking about. Half the time, I might not even know which cog I'm on in back. I have to look down/back to see which cog I'm on and which way I want to go. But, I have options, That's all that matters to me.
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Think of it like this. On your small chainring you have only 3 gears that are significantly lower than the lowest gear on your middle ring. Then on your large chainring you only have 2 gears higher than the highest gear on your middle ring. The rest are all overlapping even though they are not identical duplicates, except for the 32.8.
#150
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