More gasoline on the fire - Electronic Shifting
#201
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That feels great.
#202
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Aside from the obvious puritanical beauty of an "analogue" classical bike... what bull... shifting with mechanical STI levers is substantially more strenuous on your fingers than Di2... and it's not mere milliseconds... especially with multiple consecutive shifts. When I built a Di2 flatbar for city use - I eventually had to ditch my old mechanical Trek Madone for a Di2 roadbike... it was simply too big a QOL improvement to pass up.
I totally agree! I have that on both my Di2 bikes... even my Dura-Ace spec S-Works. I'm not always sure where the front-derailleur currently is otherwise x) ...and the battery indicator entirely removes any charging concerns/issues.
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i‘ve only used the latest di2, but the battery lasts months. thousands of miles. it would have to be a seriously long tour without access to power!
when it “dies” it also dies for the FD first, into the small ring, so you still have access to a wide range and can climb, you just can’t go fast.
on the other hand, the failure mode of a broken cable is walking home / calling a lyft.
when it “dies” it also dies for the FD first, into the small ring, so you still have access to a wide range and can climb, you just can’t go fast.
on the other hand, the failure mode of a broken cable is walking home / calling a lyft.
I'm an electronic shifting fanboy but a broken cable is trivial. Just carry a spare along with a spare cleat, mounting hardware, etc. I've never broken a cable, because I replaced them on a PM schedule. I have broken cleats and the mounting plate, but was able to repair on the road.
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If you've ever used Shimano's downtube or bar-end levers, or Campy's Ultrashift, then you should be able to get your head around it. An indexed non-escapement shift mechanism incorporating a counterspring is a pretty damn satisfying way to shift. You can feel what the chain is doing through the cable on upshifts (pulling the cable), and downshifts on non-escapement shifters feel so much better; think anti-SRAM.
I can't get my head around it. But I can't feel anything anyway.
Bottom line for me, I just want gears to change fast, easy, reliability, for a long long time. SRAM AXS and eTap fit that bill for me. All the old crap is up in the attic where it will die.
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The maintenance issue is probably the biggest attraction .... I understand (from people who would know and whose experience i respect) that electronic shifts better but I can make mech shifters work just fine, so ... the idea of never having to index a derailleur or wonder how my cables are holding up or spin a barrel adjuster when the bike starts missing shifts ... I have no problem keeping batteries charged in cameras, flash units, headlights, tail lights, my phone, my laptop .... why would a derailleur battery be so hard to keep charged?
In fact, mine can easily last 2 months, but I charge it monthly with my power meter regardless.
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Trying to picture.. you can shift while hard braking (therefore not pedaling)?
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I only do bike maintenance about once every 2 weeks and during that hour, I wax the chain, charge the eTap batteries, wash the bike, and inspect the bike. I have no idea how many shifts a SRAM battery will last. Probably 400-1000 miles depending on terrain and shifting behaviours. The longest for me was about 40 hours and I just swapped it.
For busy people or scatter brains, charging batteries is a challenge
For busy people or scatter brains, charging batteries is a challenge
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What?
I'm an electronic shifting fanboy but a broken cable is trivial. Just carry a spare along with a spare cleat, mounting hardware, etc. I've never broken a cable, because I replaced them on a PM schedule. I have broken cleats and the mounting plate, but was able to repair on the road.
I'm an electronic shifting fanboy but a broken cable is trivial. Just carry a spare along with a spare cleat, mounting hardware, etc. I've never broken a cable, because I replaced them on a PM schedule. I have broken cleats and the mounting plate, but was able to repair on the road.
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Unless they are snipped off inside the ratchet mechanism on the older Shimano units, in which case a case of beer is needed, yes, it really is that easy. Fetch the 5 mm, push the old cable out, thread the new one in, connect, adjust and tighten. A couple of minutes? Ten? Whether one just takes one long one or a long and a short is personal pref, I always just carried one long. I always have tiewraps and duck tape.
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Unless they are snipped off inside the ratchet mechanism on the older Shimano units, in which case a case of beer is needed, yes, it really is that easy. Fetch the 5 mm, push the old cable out, thread the new one in, connect, adjust and tighten. A couple of minutes? Ten? Whether one just takes one long one or a long and a short is personal pref, I always just carried one long. I always have tiewraps and duck tape.
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Would love to see a video of that. It's impossible to shift for obvious reasons when the crank is not moving, so the rider would need to continue pedaling slowly while downshifting and hard braking
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If you want to fix a flat in the rain and in the dark, the first time should be blindfolded in your shower, naked with cold water running. Ok, maybe start without the blindfold
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I do this too if it's an expected slow-down, like rolling up to a stoplight. I think most experienced riders do this instinctively to avoid being in too tall of a gear once they start pedaling again.
Doing this while braking hard seems ridiculous though.
Doing this while braking hard seems ridiculous though.
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If you are talking about braking during a descent, the front brake is all the business. Letting up on the rear for a quick shift a couple of sprockets takes what 500msec? Very easy to do with AXS. I actually think most this thread is ridiculous.
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I've only encountered this once, but the chain went to the bottom cog and I could easily ride home. I ride vintage with downtube friction but I don't see why that would make a difference.
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If you are talking about an emergency stop as when a vehicle is about to kill you? Yes, totally agree
If you are talking about braking during a descent, the front brake is all the business. Letting up on the rear for a quick shift a couple of sprockets takes what 500msec? Very easy to do with AXS. I actually think most this thread is ridiculous.
If you are talking about braking during a descent, the front brake is all the business. Letting up on the rear for a quick shift a couple of sprockets takes what 500msec? Very easy to do with AXS. I actually think most this thread is ridiculous.
The rest of the time? I usually downshift.