2_i 

3 speeds tend to be very forgiving, allowing for shifting with any shifter that has 3 or more stops.

berlinonaut

We are talking about a friction shifter. Such a shifter has no stops by definiton as it is a friction shifter.

berlinonaut

The shifter is part of their M96 series of shifters. Looking at the data sheet for the left side they seem to offer a friction version and a 2/3-speed version (which possibly has stops). I am using the friction version, which is marketed as 2/3-speed friction shifter by some dealers.
You first link goes to a right-side shifter. Your second link seems to show exactly the left side shifter I am using. As they write "They click but don’t index." Following the data sheet the thing's model name should be SLM96LF - still what's written on it is M90 and it is sold as M96 quite often.

2_i 

What is marketed these days as a friction shifter is often a shifter with many microstops. A true friction shifter has an infinite number of stops. I have SunRace M90 Friction and I can count that it has 18 microstops.

Schwinnsta

Rivendell mounts their shifters opposite sides from the conventional mounting. They claim it is more ergonomic.

fietsbob

Current BSR is of NIG redesign the British did , as the company was changing hands..
No In-between Gear feature .. but I managed with a friction shifter with old AW3, in 1957,

you just learn where the center position is ....






...

berlinonaut

I do not care how they mont the shifters. This is the picture from you first link:


They write this would be a right hand shifter and (in bold letters) If you want to mount these on the inside of the bar like in the video below, buy this one for the left side.

I have the left hand friction shifter (the one from your second link) mounted on the intended left side in use on my Brompton, as outlined in my description of the 9-speed mod further above in this thread. M90 is written on it and - as outlined above - in the notation of Sunrace it would probably be the model noSLM96LF. This is what I am using and what you have been asking for. If you want to mount the shifter on the other side of the bar, upside down, wrong way round or whatever your intention is you are totally free to do so. If you want to use a different shifter you are also free to do so. But do not expect me to know what you are intending or anything about a shifter I do not have in use...
Regarding the photos from Rivendell: You could also look at them as from a perspective from the front of the bike - than they would correctly fit directionvise....

Schwinnsta

OK, you already answered my question and I have placed and order. I appreciate the help..Thanks.

As to whether I ordered the right one, that remains to be seen, but I think so.

I will update. Right now it is shifting great. I replaced cable in it.

Schwinnsta

Installed 12-14-17 Bikegang kit with end lug and Sunrace 3-speed friction shifter. Everything works fine and it shifts great but ran into this problem which seems strange. If I tighten the derailleur 15mm nut that holds the derailleur on more than hand tight, the underneath side of the derailleur hits the driver that holds the sprockets. So the driver rubs against the derailleur. For now I have it on hand tight but with two cone nuts, one acting as a jam nut so it can't come off. Since I did not alter the driver or the derailleur, I can't understand why this should be.

2_i 

Have you made a washer and put it on the axle tu push the derailleur slightly out, per @berlinonaut instructions? I do not already remember details, hence cannot quite confront my experiences against yours, but without that washer the derailleur was getting stuck against the sprockets or something.

Schwinnsta

Yes I tried that but it was not shifting well with the spacer and I was getting frustrated at this point so I went back to it with out the spacer and all was well again. I do not have an understanding of why this happening. I am using the same derailleur and same hub driver. I have three sprockets but it is hitting at the end of the driver which has not moved. Why should this be?

2_i 

One explanation of not shifting well with the spacer is that you might not have adjusted the limit screw to let the jockey wheel pusher rotate farther out. If this were the case you should try putting that spacer back and adjust the limit screw.

Schwinnsta

I did that but to no avail. Shifting was poor so I went back to no shim. This picture may help

If you look close at the driver you see how close it is too rubbing on the derailleur.

2_i 

To solve the rubbing problem you need the shim. Let us try another angle on the poor shifting then. The spring in the derailleur that pulls the shift cable back is fairly weak. Did you try playing with the tension bolt on top of the shifter? You should loosen it as much as you can to let the derailleur spring do its pulling.

fietsbob

Add a Flat Washer?

Or .. You might have to stick with just 2 cogs (13-17?) if you cannot solve it .. as it is..

I'm OK with my BSR M3L

Schwinnsta

I can leave at as it is now with three speeds but having the outside nut hand tight and having a jam nut. I am using two cone nuts with 17mm // sides. I may split a 15 mm // axle nut. I may try again to make a shim and may try a flat washer too but I like the way it shifts now, with the derailleur as it is.

berlinonaut

This sounds really weird. The position of the driver on the wheel and the derailleur are identical wether you use two sprockets (as original) or three sprockets w/o a shim. Thus the very same issue (derailleur hitting the driver) should have hit you in the original configuration that came from the factory. And as this is not the case possibly something went wrong during your latest re-assembly.

Schwinnsta

I was mistaken the derailleur is pressing against the smallest cog. Its hard to see. Its very close to the splined driver but I think it hits thee cog. This seems to leave me with two choices. One, make a shim. Two, a little filing on the derailleur. First I may try a little wet white on the side of the cog to see where exactly it hits and how much filing it will take. It is very hard to see or take a picture of it.

It tried to draw a white box around the interference area.

Schwinnsta

Problem resolved by adding a thin washer/spacer inboard of the drop out.

2_i 

That is certainly a solution and I considered it, but then I struggled to push the wheel into the dropout without an extra washer and I decided against it.

Schwinnsta

The washer is thin, and I will just have see how it goes. I do have a question for you. You stated in another thread that Bikegang was supplying 11-speed cogs. How do you know? For that matter, given a box of cogs, from different sets, how can you tell which speed set a given cog is from? I assume by measuring the thickness, but where? The tooth or body?

2_i 

In my memory the speed number was written on the cogs. The most important difference is in the leading cog that has a built-in spacer and it was thinner than analogous 10-speed. For other cogs the difference in thickness is more subtle. You should measure the cog thickness at the flat inner region, as teeth have all kinds of deformities. Let me still check at home for the components that I have off the bike. I also wrote that I felt that the most valuable piece of the bikegang kit was the retaining ring for the cogs, thinner than the Brompton original. After looking more closely at the bikegang ring, I realized that it was likely made from a spoke. I.e. you can just bend a piece of the center of a butted spoke to make such a ring.

2_i 

OK, I do not want to pull the leading 10sp cog, with integrated spacer, off the Brompton, but I remember it being thicker than the bikegang one. The subsequent cogs have the same thickness in the bikegang set and in a 10sp Shimano cassette. However the spacer for separating the second and third cog that bikegang provided is 2.04mm thick and the 10sp-spacers are about 2.37mm thick. I managed to squeeze 2.55mm or thereabouts onto the Brompton cassette. I went with as wide spacing as was possible for the sake of good shifting, and about equal between the 3 cogs. I have enough pieces in my parts boxes to come up with virtually any spacing I want.

P.S. There is nothing about speed number on the cogs - just letter symbols for cog identification and teeth number.

Schwinnsta

Thanks. I have emailed Bikegang and asked him about the speed set a few times but he has not responded. I put a 10-speed cog 16T on but it fit too loose so I went with his 17T. His set fits fine. Interestingly, 10 and 11 tooth Shimano cogs have the same thickness but different spacings. A friend has a box of loose cogs so I may have another go of it.

2_i 

What speed chain are you using? From scanning the web on this 10 vs 11sp issue, I found out that the outside width of 11sp chains is 5.4mm and of 10sp is 5.9mm. With the bikegang spacer one might fear that 10sp chain could be too wide. I ride with 10sp.

If the 16T cog was too loose for you, you might try putting back the Brompton chain guide. In my packing of pieces on the cassette I had to take the guide off and this seems to be most common when increasing the cog number, also in your photo. However, I eventually managed to put the guide back, this to cure the chain sometimes getting caught between the largest cog and hub for folded bike. I accomplished the feat by removing the most inner part of the guide and then placing the guide loose between the largest cog and the hub. Over a couple of days the guide occasionally pushed the chain off the largest cog, but then apparently enough of the protruding plastic rubbed off and the rear gears went back to complete normal.