BMC_Kid 

I’ve never thought much about the stem rotating as it’s never been an issue, for me. So I just went and tried to rotate the bars and it took quite a bit of force on the bars with the wheel between my legs. I mean a lot. So, I tightened the stem bolts a precise smidge and tried again and it didn’t budge. I didn’t use my torque wrench but I did when I installed it, so it might have loosened a bit. Or I might have exceeded the torque specs when I just tightened it. The only way to find out is to retorque to specs and try to see if it rotates again. Unfortunately, I don’t have my torque wrench with me right now.

joejack951

I am glad you clarified the issue as that is not what I thought you were describing. Did you try the assembly paste between your stem and the innicycle steerer tube to see if that helps? Where I initially described adding it wouldn't make any difference but I thought you had slippage somewhere else.

Which stem are you using on your innicycle and what are you torquing the bolts to? Is there still a gap at the split in the stem clamp or has it bottomed out? If not already bottomed, have you tried going a 'precise smidge tighter' as BMC_Kid describes?

Alan K

Am I correct then in my understanding that when tightened a little more (16 ft-lb rather than N-m), the slippage is no longer a problem?
I am contemplating changing quills in my older bikes (at least 2, may be 3) this winter and I do not want to add something for esthetics that comes with a few added headaches. 😉

joejack951

There are two slippage issues that have been brought to my attention over the years (amongst hundreds of problem free installs FWIW):

1. slippage of the innicycle quill within the threaded steerer tube: A few customers have mentioned either needing to use additional torque (15 ft.*lbs. or so, versus the 15 N*m stated in the install video) on the top cap or carbon paste on the quill to have it locked to their satisfaction. I've also made some small changes recently to the cone to aid in its ability to expand the quill for a tighter lock. I expect this issue to be resolved with that change, as rare it was to hear about it.

2. slippage of the threadless stem on the innicycle steerer tube: This one is brand new to me as of cycledog1 mentioning it. Just browsing Amazon, there are a LOT of threadless adapters out there with the majority having no texture, and most of those having a bright, nearly-polished finish as well. A few have some texture and notably Nitto makes an adapter with a knurled finish. I also have a bunch of forks in my office in steel, aluminum, and carbon, and only one of those has anything nearing what I would consider texture (a Trek Domane fork). I'm still willing to accept that the finish on the innicycle is causing the slippage he's seeing, but then I'd also bet that a different stem wouldn't have that issue either.

cycledog1

ritchey WCS. I put the thompson on, its not as snug for obvious reasons. the bolts are as tight as possible.

as you can see, the installs are clean, to anyone thinking of using one. I still have grease oosing out the the crack. mine didn't come with the special rubber bolt cap, but this one isn't a rain bike ------- my all weather bike is my allroad disc with fenders, so this lemond doesn't intentionally see rain. I'll let you know what I use to lock'er down, locktight is the most common market item as accessible anywhere, so will keep you posted.


'99 Lemond Zurich retromoderned with 6700 and now converted from the quil to the innicycle headset/steerertube conversion.

the innicycle headset/steerertube conversion from the former quill stem.

cycledog1

problem solved - the issue DID turn out to be slippage of the innicycle quill within the threaded steerer tube. I was sure it was as tight as could be reasonalby expected, but there was more to be done and THAT WAS the slippage afterall, not the stem. big relief.

cantiger

Hiya, got a bit of a project going on, eyeing the inni headset. Thing is, also need to replace the fork. Frame steerer tube is 170mm, how long should the fork steerer column be? Cheers.

Or other way to ask: what's the stack height of the inni headset cups?

joejack951

The easy answer to your question comes from the installation specs: your fork should be 27-45 mm longer than your headtube. So in your case (and assuming you meant headtube not steerer tube on your frame), you’ll want a steerer tube that’s 197-215 mm long. Given that you have the option, I’d say shoot for 210 mm plus or minus a few.

Since you asked, the stack height of the lower cup is 12.4 mm and the upper is 14.6 mm but those numbers don’t translate into anything useful for gauging fork length given the design. It does give you an idea of how much adjustment you’ll have for your threadless stem, though.

cantiger

Oh, headtube of course, my bad, thanks for the swift reply. Thought I'd seen the figures somewhere when watching the video a few days ago but couldn't find back where it was.

Since the fork is this Crust's Lightning Bolt one (can't post links yet with under 10 posts) i'll go with the 202mm version then. (Next longer would be 232mm).

Now if only those Nitto tall stack stems wouldn't be quite so scarce.

joejack951

This fork?

The 202 mm version will do it. Alternatively, you could use the next size up and cut off the excess. They have plenty of threads for that per the description.

Crust has worked with me in the past on my thru axle conversion kits. Unlike some manufacturers, they were open to my questions and recognized that more options are better for their customers than less. I'd love to show them their fork with an innicycle conversion headset.

Tall stack stems work a treat with this headset. Good luck finding one! Maybe try one of these: https://velo-orange.com/products/vo-...stem-31-8-rise

cantiger

Yup that's the fork, thanks for confirming the length. Will try to follow up here, but between modding the frame, parts shipment, and paint job, better not hold your breath. Really looking forward to getting on with the build though!