For the love of English 3 speeds...
10-12-16, 05:42 AM
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10-12-16, 12:14 PM
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Hello knowledgeable people. I've put a 22 tooth cog and new tires (Schwalb Delta Cruiser) on a 1974 Raleigh Sports and am also putting on a new chain.
My problem: If I push the rear axle all the way back in the dropouts, the rear tire rubs on the fender in the back. Is it safe to have the rear wheel further forward within the dropouts so that the tire doesn't rub?
I can see from a circular wear pattern in the paint that, maybe for this reason, the previous owner had the wheel far forward, almost to the end--or is that called the beginning?--of the dropouts where the wheel would drop out. Is that safe/acceptable?
My problem: If I push the rear axle all the way back in the dropouts, the rear tire rubs on the fender in the back. Is it safe to have the rear wheel further forward within the dropouts so that the tire doesn't rub?
I can see from a circular wear pattern in the paint that, maybe for this reason, the previous owner had the wheel far forward, almost to the end--or is that called the beginning?--of the dropouts where the wheel would drop out. Is that safe/acceptable?
10-12-16, 12:32 PM
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Hello knowledgeable people. I've put a 22 tooth cog and new tires (Schwalb Delta Cruiser) on a 1974 Raleigh Sports and am also putting on a new chain.
My problem: If I push the rear axle all the way back in the dropouts, the rear tire rubs on the fender in the back. Is it safe to have the rear wheel further forward within the dropouts so that the tire doesn't rub?
I can see from a circular wear pattern in the paint that, maybe for this reason, the previous owner had the wheel far forward, almost to the end--or is that called the beginning?--of the dropouts where the wheel would drop out. Is that safe/acceptable?
My problem: If I push the rear axle all the way back in the dropouts, the rear tire rubs on the fender in the back. Is it safe to have the rear wheel further forward within the dropouts so that the tire doesn't rub?
I can see from a circular wear pattern in the paint that, maybe for this reason, the previous owner had the wheel far forward, almost to the end--or is that called the beginning?--of the dropouts where the wheel would drop out. Is that safe/acceptable?
10-12-16, 12:35 PM
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Thanks! So as long as I tighten the bolts there's no safety reason why the wheel needs to be all the way back in the dropouts? Basically I don't want the wheel to fall out while I'm riding, that's my fear. eeks.
10-12-16, 12:41 PM
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It's hard to stop riding in this fall weather. Back to work after some coffee. I did remember to bring my phone along today. I tend to stay in out of the way places, not much to see. I guess I'll never be a photographer like some of you here. Still, here's the roadster on a couple of my favorite roads.
10-12-16, 12:46 PM
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If the nuts are tight the wheel isn't going anywhere and it can't fall out at any rate.
10-12-16, 12:49 PM
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The extra room is there so as the chain wears you can move the wheel back to tighten it up. When the chain is properly set you should be able to pick up the middle of the chain about 3/4".
If the nuts are tight the wheel isn't going anywhere and it can't fall out at any rate.
If the nuts are tight the wheel isn't going anywhere and it can't fall out at any rate.
10-12-16, 01:06 PM
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https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-C.../dp/B00HZ8PAQY
I've used these successfully on a couple of my 10-speed to IGH conversions. They work fine.
10-12-16, 01:37 PM
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An additional note- as pointed out earlier, if the wheel goes all the way to the rear of the dropout your chain is too long; as you noted the wheel runs into the fender.
You'll need a chain link removal tool to get the chain to the right length. There is a bit of a technique to it! So I would practice removing and installing links on the old chain if its still around (youtube is your friend), otherwise get someone to show you how to use the tool.
You'll need a chain link removal tool to get the chain to the right length. There is a bit of a technique to it! So I would practice removing and installing links on the old chain if its still around (youtube is your friend), otherwise get someone to show you how to use the tool.
10-12-16, 01:44 PM
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An additional note- as pointed out earlier, if the wheel goes all the way to the rear of the dropout your chain is too long; as you noted the wheel runs into the fender.
You'll need a chain link removal tool to get the chain to the right length. There is a bit of a technique to it! So I would practice removing and installing links on the old chain if its still around (youtube is your friend), otherwise get someone to show you how to use the tool.
You'll need a chain link removal tool to get the chain to the right length. There is a bit of a technique to it! So I would practice removing and installing links on the old chain if its still around (youtube is your friend), otherwise get someone to show you how to use the tool.
10-12-16, 04:57 PM
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Correct-- window shifter is 1950s era.
1938-48 is the long lever:
1948-49: the uncommon "silver" or "black" solid face (two types)
Starting around 1950, and for much of that decade you see a variety of window shifters with various faceplates. They indeed were plated to start with, and lose their plating easily. If you have the short lever, window shifter, it's 1950s-era.
See: https://genetics.mgh.harvard.edu/hanc...satriggers.pdf
for an excellent resource.
1938-48 is the long lever:
1948-49: the uncommon "silver" or "black" solid face (two types)
Starting around 1950, and for much of that decade you see a variety of window shifters with various faceplates. They indeed were plated to start with, and lose their plating easily. If you have the short lever, window shifter, it's 1950s-era.
See: https://genetics.mgh.harvard.edu/hanc...satriggers.pdf
for an excellent resource.
10-13-16, 04:31 PM
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10-13-16, 10:16 PM
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They look nice, but I do think the short lever shifters from 1948 through the 1950s (silver/black face solid and window face) work better. The window shifters really are a functional wonder when you find one in good shape.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
10-14-16, 04:35 AM
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I have early 50s 3 or 4 speed window shifters on my roadsters now and I think they're perfect for rod brake bikes. The lever isn't as long as this very early one, but it's longer than the late 50s on type. I can position them in a very comfortable position for me. The one on my 72 was a rusty mess when I took it off a salvage bike, but it cleaned up nicely and as unlikely as it sounds, I found someone selling NOS replacement leaf springs on eBay. Works beautifully. They are nice shifters.
10-14-16, 03:56 PM
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Not exactly vintage-approved, but I do get excited from an engineering point of view about this:
Ginko feine veloteile and their heatsink modified SA+ brake hubs.
That and a ton of small tuning parts for Sturmey Archer brake hubs.
Ginko feine veloteile and their heatsink modified SA+ brake hubs.
That and a ton of small tuning parts for Sturmey Archer brake hubs.
10-14-16, 07:34 PM
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It's hard to stop riding in this fall weather. Back to work after some coffee. I did remember to bring my phone along today. I tend to stay in out of the way places, not much to see. I guess I'll never be a photographer like some of you here. Still, here's the roadster on a couple of my favorite roads.
10-14-16, 07:48 PM
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Those are excellent shots! Wow, the leaves there are much farther along in the color cycle than here in MN. Although I suppose it probably looks the same up north, like Ely or International Falls. I have yet to take any Fall Colors shots. Better get busy this weekend.
Nice path racer! Can't beat a DL1 for that - the rod brakes really stand out.
Nice path racer! Can't beat a DL1 for that - the rod brakes really stand out.
10-15-16, 11:47 AM
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Larger rear cog / chain guard issues.
I got a 22t to replace the 19t on my 1969 superbe. I am having issues with getting the frame tabs for the chainguard to line up with the holes on the chainguard. IS there a trick here? I might just leave the guard off. ITs kind of pointless. The screws/nuts for my chainguard are gone as well. Figuring they are witworth threaded i would probably just get smaller ones that fit through the hole with washers and nylon nuts....but at this point i cant get it to line up wiht the holes. Perhaps some spacers between the guard and the tab would do the trick.
10-15-16, 02:27 PM
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Enjoyed the mild autumn weather today with a ride to the coffee shop with my sweetie and riding the '79 Raleigh DL1 known as "Sir Wayes A. Tonne" The Radio Canada CBC backpack does duty as a bike bag. It has taken a while to get all the bugs out of this one, but SWAT is becoming my favorite "townie".
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
10-15-16, 02:28 PM
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I got a 22t to replace the 19t on my 1969 superbe. I am having issues with getting the frame tabs for the chainguard to line up with the holes on the chainguard. IS there a trick here? I might just leave the guard off. ITs kind of pointless. The screws/nuts for my chainguard are gone as well. Figuring they are witworth threaded i would probably just get smaller ones that fit through the hole with washers and nylon nuts....but at this point i cant get it to line up wiht the holes. Perhaps some spacers between the guard and the tab would do the trick.
10-15-16, 02:37 PM
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The trick is to tighten NOTHING down until you've gotten all the screws in place. Give yourself plenty of slack to wiggle things into place. I had similar issues on a R20, wondering what the hell happened that the guard didn't fit anymore. It'll fit, but you'll need to adjust things as you go to get them into place.
10-15-16, 02:40 PM
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10-15-16, 03:47 PM
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@browngw
Like the DL-1. Does the bag interfere with the wheel?
Like the DL-1. Does the bag interfere with the wheel?
10-15-16, 09:07 PM
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@browngw
Like the DL-1. Does the bag interfere with the wheel?
Like the DL-1. Does the bag interfere with the wheel?
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
10-16-16, 06:13 AM
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Enjoyed the mild autumn weather today with a ride to the coffee shop with my sweetie and riding the '79 Raleigh DL1 known as "Sir Wayes A. Tonne" The Radio Canada CBC backpack does duty as a bike bag. It has taken a while to get all the bugs out of this one, but SWAT is becoming my favorite "townie".
Of course, it would help if I took the loaded down bags off first...
Great photos!