zandoval 

I did not take time to read all the details but I know your dilemma - I solved this problem on my vintage bike freewheel clusters changes by inserting a spacer before threading on my freewheel - It gives me about 1.5mm extra clearance on the derailleur without changing to much of the geometry of my sets...

FBinNY 

You do understand that the OP solved his problem by correcting the tension imbalance in a crossed pair of spokes. If interested, read post #3 for a description of the nature of the problem and the solution.

As I say below my signature, the cure depends on an accurate diagnosis.

To r0cket88, there's no need to worry about a possible extrusion problem.
These are extremely rare and would manifest differently. A rim is under nearly pure compression, with each section between spokes acting as an arch wanting to bow out under load, and restrained by the spokes. There is a shear load at each spoke hole, so a defect might cause some buckling or dimpling locally, but that would be visible to the naked eye.

It's possible that the rim was malformed when it as bent into the hoop, but that too is rare these days (used to be much more common) because process controls are so much better. We can only speculate (lots of smoke and mirrors here) about why the spoke broke in the first place, and it's possible that you'll break others if it wasn't a fluke, but otherwise you can rest easy and enjoy the bike.

r0cket88

I am kind of dragging this thread up from the dead I know, but:
1) Its my thread.
2) Wanted to try and keep continuity on this repair process.

OK, so a few updates here.
First off. FB, the re-tensioning of the spokes helped for quite some time.
Since I am relegated to stand training right now due to weather in this part of the country, I have been able to pay a bit more attention to what is going on.

First off, I have ordered a set of hubs (Shimano 105 5700 Rear and Shimano DH-3N72 front dynamo hub).
I will be ordering a new set of rims and spokes soon so that I can eliminate the wheels from the equation here completely.
Besides I got really jealous of my wife's Schmidt dyno hub last fall since she could ride later into the evening hours than I could.

Wheel plans are for 36 spoke set with the aforementioned hubs.
For rims I am looking at 3 options and any input would be appreciated:
1) Mavic Open Sport
2) Mavic CXP-22
3) Sun CR18

I am about 6'4" and 200 lbs right now. I ride in SE Michigan so the roads aren't exactly the greatest.
I have been running 700x28 Panaracer Paselas at this point for tires, but I would like to reserve the ability to step back down to a 23 or 25mm tire if I can.
Would this rule out the possibility of using the CR-18's? I know they are a significantly wider rim than either of the Mavic rims.

One other thing I have noticed while riding on the trainer.
While I am riding and only while pedaling, I have noticed that the rear derailleur will move in a lateral direction (Like the attached park tools image shows).
This only happens while pedaling, and once I stop pedaling the lateral motion stops.
I am concerned that this may possibly be contributing to my derailleur contacting the spokes while riding in the largest cog in the back.

Keep in mind this derailleur was transferred to this bike from a 1988 Schwinn Tempo originally.
It is a Shimano 105 7 Speed rear, but I am not sure of the model number.
Park tools only indicates that you should check for "Excessive" play in this direction.
Unfortunately, as I am not the most experienced bicycle tech out there, I have no history as to what is excessive and what is not.
I have also noted that this derailleur has some play of the body around the mounting bolt.
I am not sure if these things are related or not, but I want to make sure that when I build my new wheels that I don't throw this derailleur into my spiffy new wheels.

Thanks for reading, and any further input would be appreciated.
-Rick

ksisler

FB; Agreed.

OP; Check the article on wheel building at the Sheldon site. About 2/3 way down look for an odd photo of him (not intending a pun) sticking a left side crank arm in between the spokes to bend them and also the pix with him hitting the spokes near the hub with a hammer. Read and follow the great ones advice and you will be back on happy trails with spokes that aren't bowing outward on their way to the rim. On the side, I would also recommend putting one of those plastic pie-pan spoke protectors behind your cogset. About $8 at the LBS or on Amazon. Get the 34T one to get maximum coverage.

Bill Kapaun

The CR-18 is 17.5MM between the inner beads.
It'll take a 23MM tire, but I wouldn't go smaller.

mrrabbit 

r0cket88

I'd suggest bypassing the CR-18. My experience the past few years is that it has become a pretty soft rim. The two Mavic considerations are okay. However, I would seriously look at DT Swiss products as well. They're more costly but they make very good quality stuff.

The H+Plus Son TB14 wouldn't be too bad of a consideration either. Same for the Velocity DeepV.

=8-)

musicgalaxyman

try putting a thin shim between deraileur and dropout, you can use metal from an aluminum can, one or two thicknesses.