tcs

I disagree. For details, there are numerous photos and drawings on the 'net, in Glenn's and from Sturmey-Archer. The video is helpful - especially for first timers - in illustrating the dynamic action of dis/re-assembly, something all those still photos and diagrams and text do not do well.

If anyone really wants to call themselves a S-A guru, they're welcome to post up a video series on Sturmey overhaul/rebuild that is complete and self contained and illustrates all known information, answers every question and leaves no possible issue to other sources.

tcs

rhm

Bumping this again, just to get it on page two... I'm very impatient, you see.

supton

How loose do the cones need to be? I took my bike out for a ride last night, and it was kinda squirrely. Got home, and the rear wheel had what felt like quite a bit of play--so I redid the cones this morning. I tightened the right one down, and then only did a quarter-turn out--half turn just felt really loose. Did the same on the left--tighten to no play, back off a quarter turn. Put onto the bike, and no play in the rim--but the cranks don't turn forward when I spin the wheel.

gna

The grease I use I bought at Napa. It's the tan stuff; essentially, it's soap and oil. Any soap based auto grease will work. Smear grease on the ball rings, and also the dustcaps that the cones screw into.

gna

I disagree as well. The first video shows how easy it is to take apart; as I mentioned, there are other videos Graham did showing planet gears and pawls. I recommend them highly (I also like the farting dog).

gna

The right cone you should only back out far enough to get the lock washer on--1/4 to 1/2 a turn. I also just have a small amount on the left cone--1/2 turn is way too loose.

supton

I've got this tub of marine grease, that I got for doing the bearings on my utility trailer. [It doesn't see water, but it does sit in a snowbank for 6 months of the year.] Good/no good? Would the right stuff say that it's soap based?

supton

Cool; thanks. Will give this a try, and see if it stops the wandering.

tatfiend 

Any good bearing grease should be fine. IMO people over worry about SA hub lubrication requirements. 20W to 30W oil, not 3 in 1, and a good bearing grease should do fine. All Glenn's manual says is a multipurpose grease and IIRC SA listed use of a lithium grease.

gna

Let me phrase it a bit more carefully. You are trying to line up the flats on that lockwasher with the flats on the axle, so you'll end up backing it out 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.

Bikesmith recommends the tan automotive grease; petroleum based grease will dissolve in oil and the oil will leak out.

I use the marine grease (the blue/green stuff) everywhere else (headsets, front hubs, bottom brackets). I use the tan grease in Sturmey hubs and auto drum brake grease in coater hubs.

noglider 

Any grease will do. I'm currently using silicone grease in all my bike work. I got it at the auto parts store. The owner said there isn't much petroleum-based grease any more, as the silicone stuff seems to work as well or better in every application.

supton

Wandering stopped. All is good again.

Ok, I thought, going on the instructions, that the right side was supposed to be turned out a half turn, like it was critical for the gears to work. I saw the "don't go past 1/2", but it seemed prescribed to do 1/2, as if less was bad. That, and the instruction to have some rim play. All set now. Seems to run just fine--all problems at the moment are motor related.

FlatTop

This is the nugget of information that I overlooked. I'd never have judged Graham's video so harshly if I'd known he had other, detailed videos posted. Such as https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFq5f...eature=related
(which is pure gold as far as I'm concerned).

Most definitely.

SirMike1983 

I use a small amount of Lithium grease on the bearings in the SA hub and am satisfied with that. I keep the hub oiled with 30 weight motor oil all year. It comes in tubs from the hardware store's automotive section and is a very slippery, green-grey color. I've used plain brown axle grease in the past, and won't be doing it again.

It probably is possible to use Silicone grease-- it should resist the oil. It also has the added benefit of not rotting rubber and plastic parts. Pure silicone grease is used by divers on rubber parts to prevent degradation. I have some here, but haven't used it on any of my SA hubs.

The quick guide is to avoid 3 in 1 because of the vegetable component that allows gumming. However there is a non-vegetable version called 3 in 1 "motor oil" that is actually very close to a basic 20 weight light machine oil. I've also seen people use sewing machine oil, and general purpose 20 weight oil.

As for oil seepage-- it happens. The grease never seems to perform a perfect seal and you always get a little bit here and there. After I oil and ride, I stick a rag around each end of the hub to catch any excess that seeps out.

I prefer flushing to take downs any day, except for the worst off hubs. Usually you can saturate the old crap enough to loose it and turn it back to a liquid that can be run out of the hub. It's a mess, but it beats a take down. I've also done partial take downs, which worked alright.

noglider 

That is a good video! That's the trickiest part of re-assembling the hub, and he does it very well.

hamish

Hi, if this isn't the right place to post this, please accept my apology.

I'm a new owner of a 1933 KB hub (and its attached roadster with front and rear drum brakes). All three gears work, but never at one cable tension setting on the top-tube mounted shifter. So I'm not sure there's anything particularly wrong with the hub, although surely it could do with a rebuild, but I'm not sure how to make the proper adjustments. The indicator is on the left side of the wheel, unlike the later versions, and it has a slot in it as though it's meant to be adjusted with a screwdriver. It moves in proportion to the bable when I shift gears, so it seems things internally are working more or less correctly.

Any thoughts, links to resources, suggestions of gurus who might take an interest would be gratefully received.

Thanks!

Hamish

gna

Wow, a KB--hub has a drum brake. I can find some info on K hubs here: https://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~ha...samaintind.htm

I'd recommend the Gentleman Cyclist group--there are a few old bikes kicking around there.

hamish

Ok, thanks. I tried the first one already, but could only find the (cool) brochure which had all their old hubs on it. No info on adjusting hubs with the indicator that goes all the way through to the left side.

I'll try the Gentlemen site and see how I get on, thanks!

Hamish