oddjob2

A friend's daughter just graduated from college and had bought an $85 Schwinn World Sport late spring to train for a marathon.

I told him when race month arrives, she could borrow a real tri bike. He thought the original looked fast. I told him red bikes are faster. . Just cleaned up this 1989 Master and replaced rear brake cable housing, saddle and tape.

Full Shimano tri color in excellent nick.

ryansu

That is a sweet looking ride and appears to be my size . I need to find me an Ironman. Nicely done Oddjob.

RobbieTunes

Troll size?

canklecat

BTW, on the topic of cleaning those white rubber brake hoods, I found Clorox foaming bleach cleanser worked well. I'd tried other stuff, no luck. But last night I had the left hood off to redo a bit of bar tape and happened to have the Clorox spray on the kitchen counter. Gave it a try, let it soak about 15-30 minutes, and the grime came off with a sponge and Scotchbrite pad.

oddjob2

The IM Master will be ridden in next week's Chicago Triathlon Olympic distance event. You'll know the bike by the young lady with long legs and blue grey eyes upon it.

texaspandj

I didn't think you could improve the looks of that Ironman, but that should do it.

canklecat

Nice. She must be tall. That frame appears to be my size. And that red should go fast.

What's that saddle? I'm considering a replacement for the saddle that came with my Ironman.

oddjob2

She is almost 5'9"

Not about to put a leather saddle that will get a wet bathing suit or whatever on it, since the swim comes first.

Origin 8

Unkle Rico

I 650b'ed my IM a month or so back to make a commuter bike -- came out good. Rode in the rain the day I took this pic so thats why it looks messy..

texaspandj

Cool Unk. I'm digging it. How bout some Specs please. What brake calipers are you using?

Unkle Rico

Tektro's

10sp setup, Ultegra 6700 F/R, 105 bar end shifters, FSA crank (46/39), Ultegra 6800 BB, Ultegra 11-28, Cane Creek levers. 38mm Soma Xpress tires running on Pacenti rims laced with BHS hubs.

Kind of a mix/mash of parts but they all work well together.

oddjob2

Chicago Triathlon this morning - She's still smiling after the swim and 20 miles on the Ironman.

plonz 

Great pic and a heck of a gesture you helping her out. So cool to have C&V representation at an event like that.

texaspandj

I have a grinding feeling and noise when I put pedal hard.
It started when I felt my bike trying to shift while on a ride last year and stopped to check. The rear derailleur cable was shot. I got home replaced cable, however when I went for a test ride I felt a grinding in my bottom bracket. Since I had planned on overhauling my Ironman over the winter anyway, I decided I'd do it then. One thing led to another and I ended up overhauling the BB,HS,and Hubs. I figured I'd put cables on later and be done with it.
I haven't really rode it much except on the trainer. But I decided I'd compare it to my MV and that's when I discovered I still have the same grinding feeling and sound.
So far I've overhauled bb a few more times, overhauled freewheel, switched pedals and replaced cables.
Initially I thought maybe I had put the caged bearings wrong side out, but I didn't, however I swapped to loose bearings anyway and still grinding feeling and noise.
I tightened everything chainring bolts,saddle,quick release, and cleats. I eventually rode it on test ride with running shoes and still grinding.
When the bike is in stand it shifts fine no gear grinding, smooth as silk no chain crank spin, no detectable grinding at all. It's only when I ride and put hard pressure.
Is it possibly the chain? I've wiped it and will lube it and try that this morning, but man I'm really running out of ideas.
The worst part is all this is on my Classic. The bike I would choose to ride across the country with. It has dura ace 7400 bb,hs,fd,shifters,hubs,and 7402 rd.
Any suggestions?

johnlink

Is the grinding a steady continuous sound when you pedal hard or does it come and go?

texaspandj

Comes and goes.
Actually thinking about it more, as long as I'm going hard its grinding

rccardr 

Could be chain.
If only in the big ring, check teeth.
Could be RD pulley wheels, have they been serviced too?
Are the brake shoes dragging on the rim?

texaspandj

It happens on both chainrings.
Have not serviced Rd pulley wheels. However I thought about that after I serviced the ones on my MV. After disassembly and cleaning, I used a Teflon silicone lubricant, what do you recommend?
Definitely not the brake shoes dragging.

It's killing me, if I could afford it I'd send it to you and let you sort it out.

rccardr 

Did you clean and service the pulley wheels on the bike in question? If not, do that. Any lube is good enough, Mobil 1 or Triflo, the important thing is that they are clean and rotate smoothly.

But if the pulley wheels aren't the problem, gotta be the chain.

Classtime 

I know you said you overhauled the freewheel but...
I was about to start exchanging parts on my MV to get to the bottom of a grinding sound. I even contemplated getting my rear derailleur hanger checked, ...because I had done EVERYTHING else.
Finally I went crazy and opened up my freewheel to realize I was missing a couple bearings in both of the races. All is good now. If I go really crazy, I'll order a jar of bearings and replace them all so they match.

texaspandj

Thanks doc.
Yes cleaned and serviced pulley wheels and used same Teflon silicone lubricant. Unfortunately same thing after test ride. Same Ole Grind.
I noticed that my rear derailleur is missing the black notched ring that attaches to the cable barrel adjuster (not sure I'm describing that well). I'll try to find it tomorrow, borrow one, or make one. Doubt it's contributing to the grind though. Next step after that is new chain. Thanks again.

texaspandj

I'm not missing any bearings, however good idea, I'll put another freewheel or wheel on tomorrow and see if that stops it. Thanks for the suggestion.

canklecat

Sure it's not the brakes? Those full length cable housings play tricks on my Ironman. The Suntour GPX brakes on mine are very sensitive to the position of the cable housings.

I had to zip tie the front brake cable housing to keep it as vertical as possible.

And I need to tug the rear brake cable housing back into position if I let the handlebar flop during a stop, especially if it flops to the right. It tugs the cable housing about 1/8"-1/4", just enough to make the right rear pad rub. Usually I don't notice over normal wind noise.

But after riding 10 miles in the rain Saturday I noticed the rims were coated in a white powdery residue. This exaggerated the noise of any pad rubbing on the rear wheel.

Reminds me, I need to zip tie the rear brake cable housing as well. One less thing to worry about while riding.

texaspandj

A couple of pics of the other dilemma.
Turns out you need that black plastic washer type thingy because it prevents you from tightening the barrel adjuster down too much and pushing out a a tiny cylinder. Ask me how I know. I've now glued and used thread lock too to keep there. Also I used a Schrader valve cap for the black washer thingy on the barrel adjuster. I couldn't find the original and didn't want to rob one of another derailleur I have. And since the baby was asleep couldn't go to the hardware store. Anyways works good enough.
Now to reinstall and put another wheel on my Classic to see if it's the rear wheel making the grinding feel and noise.

texaspandj

Well I tried everything to find the source of the grinding feeling and noise.
The last thing I tried was a different wheel, same thing, so not my freewheel.
A few things I discovered while attempting to locate grind:
1. Somehow my BB had gotten tighter,fixed.
2. Headsets was loose, fixed.
3. Axle nut was loose, fixed.

All that's left is another chain. I've got a couple of extra but I'm gonna buy a new one and give it every chance to stop grinding!
Thanks all for suggestions. Later Irongents.