What’s the deal with the really loud wheels when coasting?
#51
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Taking this opportunity to once again lament how underrated Shimano hubs are. Not only are they nearly silent, but they have proper bearings, unlike almost anything else high end but Campy.
Oddly enough, when it comes to employing the cassette body as a stressed member to put the DS axle bearing where it belongs, the only other folks doing it are the likes of Joytech; there's nothing else above low end stuff that has the right sort of bearings in the right place, to my knowledge.
Oddly enough, when it comes to employing the cassette body as a stressed member to put the DS axle bearing where it belongs, the only other folks doing it are the likes of Joytech; there's nothing else above low end stuff that has the right sort of bearings in the right place, to my knowledge.
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Angry Bees tshirt. Chris King.
"Back when hub warranty registration was done by mailing us a postcard, Akiyoshi Takamura coined an infamous quote in the comment field of his card; "It rolls good with angry bee sound". This was the birth of the angry bees and so much more."
"Back when hub warranty registration was done by mailing us a postcard, Akiyoshi Takamura coined an infamous quote in the comment field of his card; "It rolls good with angry bee sound". This was the birth of the angry bees and so much more."
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And your drive side rear axle bearing is near the centre of the hub, rather than next to the dropout where it belongs, which is dumb and crap.
If folks were to stop defending this junk, we might get something better, but nooo
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Oddly enough, out of the 3 wheelsets I own, the quietest hub (an OEM Formula hub) has the most drag, based on my own unscientific bike-in-workstand test where I just spin up the rear wheel and let it go.
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Best looking bling I have seen in a long time. Who cares about electronic shifting, deep CF wheels, bottle cages, etc, etc. This is smoking hot!
Last edited by seypat; 04-27-21 at 07:49 AM.
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Can you adjust the preload on your bearings? Being DT Swiss, I'd guess the sealing is okay, but I'd be surprised if they're angular contact, which would surely require preload adjustment, which I can't recall ever seeing on a cartridge bearing hub. Meaning your wheels will rattle sooner or later, maybe even out of the box.
And your drive side rear axle bearing is near the centre of the hub, rather than next to the dropout where it belongs, which is dumb and crap.
If folks were to stop defending this junk, we might get something better, but nooo
And your drive side rear axle bearing is near the centre of the hub, rather than next to the dropout where it belongs, which is dumb and crap.
If folks were to stop defending this junk, we might get something better, but nooo
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#59
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Can you adjust the preload on your bearings? Being DT Swiss, I'd guess the sealing is okay, but I'd be surprised if they're angular contact, which would surely require preload adjustment, which I can't recall ever seeing on a cartridge bearing hub. Meaning your wheels will rattle sooner or later, maybe even out of the box.
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If they were really junk, I think we'd all know by now. Your opinion of the quality doesn't make it a fact. None of my wheels "rattle" or have lateral play in them...out of the box or after thousands of miles of riding. If they did, I'd just grab a set of cartage bearings, and replace them, and be back on the road, no "artful" preloading required.
None.
But apparently the simple act of setting preload within a rather wide window where the bearings don't self-destruct is actually some sort of arcane magic, judging by the number of rooted bearings I've come across as a mechanic.
Folks generally don't appreciate the finer points.
Last edited by Kimmo; 04-27-21 at 03:40 PM.
#61
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You must be very diligent about maintenance. I also prefer cup and cone hubs and consider myself to be pretty conscientious but have managed to pit a few cones in my lifetime. They definitely require more attention than just setting the preload. I can understand why most people prefer cartridge bearings.
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You know how many times I've needed to replace cup and cone bearings in any of my stuff over nearly forty years?
None.
But apparently the simple act of setting preload within a rather wide window where the bearings don't self-destruct is actually some sort of arcane magic, judging by the number of rooted bearings I've come across as a mechanic.
Folks generally don't appreciate the finer points.
None.
But apparently the simple act of setting preload within a rather wide window where the bearings don't self-destruct is actually some sort of arcane magic, judging by the number of rooted bearings I've come across as a mechanic.
Folks generally don't appreciate the finer points.
I have 4 Hope and DT Swiss (Hugi) hubs ranging from 12 to 20 years old. These are on my 2 most ridden bikes. In all that time I have had to replace the bearings in just one hub one time due to wear. Other than that, zero maintenance to these bearings. None.
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Yep. And the one wheel set I had that used cup and cone bearing type hubs required adjustment about once every 3 months. After a couple of years, when I gave that bike to my son, I bought an inexpensive set of DT Swiss wheels, and he's ridden it for 2 years with not so much as a thought about the bearings. Though we did grease the free hub pawls and rotor last year, probably time to do that again. Just for the record that free hub is pretty quiet.
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Can you adjust the preload on your bearings? Being DT Swiss, I'd guess the sealing is okay, but I'd be surprised if they're angular contact, which would surely require preload adjustment, which I can't recall ever seeing on a cartridge bearing hub. Meaning your wheels will rattle sooner or later, maybe even out of the box.
And your drive side rear axle bearing is near the centre of the hub, rather than next to the dropout where it belongs, which is dumb and crap.
If folks were to stop defending this junk, we might get something better, but nooo
And your drive side rear axle bearing is near the centre of the hub, rather than next to the dropout where it belongs, which is dumb and crap.
If folks were to stop defending this junk, we might get something better, but nooo
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i like my hubs to sound just right.
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I use quality gear, generally Ultegra or better, and it's always been set and forget. Maintenance? Pshaw. Proper hubs have proper sealing. Many, many cartridge bearing hubs have little more than the poxy dust seals meant for electric motor applications you find on so many of these bearings.
Baloney. You go and wiggle some rims; if you can feel the tiniest movement, that's an unraveling thread, and I've felt it plenty, even as I say, on new wheels. It's a stupid application for radial bearings, despite the lack of lateral loading on wheels - even with no rattle, without any preload, there's a hair's breadth of room before rattle sets in, then it's a short road to pitting.
And ye gods, the contamination. If a cartridge bearing that's otherwise fine gets contaminated, it might as well be junk. Sure, you could painstakingly disassemble and clean it in order to use it until it's actually worn out, but nobody does that except for that one guy. Cup and cone bearings on the other hand, are actually quite tolerant of contamination (yet are often better sealed anyway), since there's a natural escape path for grit to be pushed out of the way (like on the angular contact cartridge bearings that almost nobody uses).
I actually have a qualification at this stuff, you know. Is there anyone here poo-poohing my concern at this egregious yet overly prevalent shortcut, who's also actually a mechanic?
And ye gods, the contamination. If a cartridge bearing that's otherwise fine gets contaminated, it might as well be junk. Sure, you could painstakingly disassemble and clean it in order to use it until it's actually worn out, but nobody does that except for that one guy. Cup and cone bearings on the other hand, are actually quite tolerant of contamination (yet are often better sealed anyway), since there's a natural escape path for grit to be pushed out of the way (like on the angular contact cartridge bearings that almost nobody uses).
I actually have a qualification at this stuff, you know. Is there anyone here poo-poohing my concern at this egregious yet overly prevalent shortcut, who's also actually a mechanic?
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I use quality gear, generally Ultegra or better, and it's always been set and forget. Maintenance? Pshaw. Proper hubs have proper sealing. Many, many cartridge bearing hubs have little more than the poxy dust seals meant for electric motor applications you find on so many of these bearings.
Baloney. You go and wiggle some rims; if you can feel the tiniest movement, that's an unraveling thread, and I've felt it plenty, even as I say, on new wheels. It's a stupid application for radial bearings, despite the lack of lateral loading on wheels - even with no rattle, without any preload, there's a hair's breadth of room before rattle sets in, then it's a short road to pitting.
And ye gods, the contamination. If a cartridge bearing that's otherwise fine gets contaminated, it might as well be junk. Sure, you could painstakingly disassemble and clean it in order to use it until it's actually worn out, but nobody does that except for that one guy. Cup and cone bearings on the other hand, are actually quite tolerant of contamination (yet are often better sealed anyway), since there's a natural escape path for grit to be pushed out of the way (like on the angular contact cartridge bearings that almost nobody uses).
I actually have a qualification at this stuff, you know. Is there anyone here poo-poohing my concern at this egregious yet overly prevalent shortcut, who's also actually a mechanic?
Baloney. You go and wiggle some rims; if you can feel the tiniest movement, that's an unraveling thread, and I've felt it plenty, even as I say, on new wheels. It's a stupid application for radial bearings, despite the lack of lateral loading on wheels - even with no rattle, without any preload, there's a hair's breadth of room before rattle sets in, then it's a short road to pitting.
And ye gods, the contamination. If a cartridge bearing that's otherwise fine gets contaminated, it might as well be junk. Sure, you could painstakingly disassemble and clean it in order to use it until it's actually worn out, but nobody does that except for that one guy. Cup and cone bearings on the other hand, are actually quite tolerant of contamination (yet are often better sealed anyway), since there's a natural escape path for grit to be pushed out of the way (like on the angular contact cartridge bearings that almost nobody uses).
I actually have a qualification at this stuff, you know. Is there anyone here poo-poohing my concern at this egregious yet overly prevalent shortcut, who's also actually a mechanic?
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It's a shame folks like me who like their stuff to be as good as it can be are such a minority. Cartridge bearings, particularly as generally implemented, are a marginal proposition; an insult to the discerning.
And cantilevered hubs are just plain stupid. I've seen a through-axle one fail at that totally unnecessary fulcrum in the middle of the hub. Best engineering practice is to give parts more than one job; the cassette body should be a structural member.
I really can't understand why folks who are prepared to pay for the best gear aren't actually interested in the best gear.
And cantilevered hubs are just plain stupid. I've seen a through-axle one fail at that totally unnecessary fulcrum in the middle of the hub. Best engineering practice is to give parts more than one job; the cassette body should be a structural member.
I really can't understand why folks who are prepared to pay for the best gear aren't actually interested in the best gear.
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It's a shame folks like me who like their stuff to be as good as it can be are such a minority. Cartridge bearings, particularly as generally implemented, are a marginal proposition; an insult to the discerning.
And cantilevered hubs are just plain stupid. I've seen a through-axle one fail at that totally unnecessary fulcrum in the middle of the hub. Best engineering practice is to give parts more than one job; the cassette body should be a structural member.
I really can't understand why folks who are prepared to pay for the best gear aren't actually interested in the best gear.
And cantilevered hubs are just plain stupid. I've seen a through-axle one fail at that totally unnecessary fulcrum in the middle of the hub. Best engineering practice is to give parts more than one job; the cassette body should be a structural member.
I really can't understand why folks who are prepared to pay for the best gear aren't actually interested in the best gear.
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Who knows. It's not people that, it's people who.
You might call it pedantry, but I call it not calling people objects. You might think that's NBD, but it matters.
Like goddamn crappy cartridge bearings and half freehubs.
You might call it pedantry, but I call it not calling people objects. You might think that's NBD, but it matters.
Like goddamn crappy cartridge bearings and half freehubs.
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#74
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Okay, sure, nothing means anything.
It's a pomo paradise; no daylight between glorious excellence and scammy imitation.
It's a pomo paradise; no daylight between glorious excellence and scammy imitation.
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Discussion's getting snarky. Time for the Turbospoke.