What is the Market for 52/36 cranksets?
03-24-18, 03:19 PM
#26
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Personally I find it has more to do with how fast I want to pedal, not how fast I can pedal.
03-25-18, 12:42 PM
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I recently got my first compact setup on my new bike. I never realized how much I suffered on climbs with a 39-25; I always dealt with it at about 40 rpms up the steepest pitches. With 34-30, I can almost always maintain 80.
My new crank arms are 175, and I've always used 172.5. Initially, I didn't think I could use the 175s, so I picked up another setup with 172.5. I thought it was advertised as a compact, but it's 52/36. As it turns out, I don't really notice the longer arms, but I'm considering a swap of the arms/chain rings (As an added complication, I'm sending the crankset I'm sticking with to Pioneer to get a power meter installed).
My question after all this is whether to go with the compact or mid compact, as i have to commit to get the power meter installed. I live in the Pocono area, so there's a lot of climbing. I just don't know if there's a noticeable difference between the 34 and 36. I'm not concerned about the big ring.
My new crank arms are 175, and I've always used 172.5. Initially, I didn't think I could use the 175s, so I picked up another setup with 172.5. I thought it was advertised as a compact, but it's 52/36. As it turns out, I don't really notice the longer arms, but I'm considering a swap of the arms/chain rings (As an added complication, I'm sending the crankset I'm sticking with to Pioneer to get a power meter installed).
My question after all this is whether to go with the compact or mid compact, as i have to commit to get the power meter installed. I live in the Pocono area, so there's a lot of climbing. I just don't know if there's a noticeable difference between the 34 and 36. I'm not concerned about the big ring.
03-25-18, 10:15 PM
#28
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I often wonder if many who are 'spinning out' are really just pedaling quickly.
50x11 at 110rpm is 40mph with 25mm tires.
If that can be sustained on flat road, sure a bigger ring is needed. Few ride that setup for any meaningful sustained period on flat road.
As for downhill, spinning at 120rpm will send you flying down the hill at over 43mph before gravity is taken into account. Seriously- tuck at that point. How many are going 47mph or faster so often they need to swap out the big ring for something larger?
'Spinning out' seems to be a bit of a misnomer on here, if all the road cyclists i see are any representation of riders elsewhere.
50x11 at 110rpm is 40mph with 25mm tires.
If that can be sustained on flat road, sure a bigger ring is needed. Few ride that setup for any meaningful sustained period on flat road.
As for downhill, spinning at 120rpm will send you flying down the hill at over 43mph before gravity is taken into account. Seriously- tuck at that point. How many are going 47mph or faster so often they need to swap out the big ring for something larger?
'Spinning out' seems to be a bit of a misnomer on here, if all the road cyclists i see are any representation of riders elsewhere.
03-26-18, 06:41 AM
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Turning 120rpm while barreling downhill is the last thing I want to do. I want the stability of substantial torque on the pedals and the solid feel of connection through the drivetrain. I don’t want to upset by bumps or caught improperly weighted when my tires need traction.
When I lived in Avon, CO, I fitted a 58t to my bike for this reason; my rides were up and down. It wasn’t ideally suited for the valley ride west out 6 to Glenwood Springs, but coming down mountain roads confidently at speeds well north of 50mph made the trade off worthwhile.
When I lived in Avon, CO, I fitted a 58t to my bike for this reason; my rides were up and down. It wasn’t ideally suited for the valley ride west out 6 to Glenwood Springs, but coming down mountain roads confidently at speeds well north of 50mph made the trade off worthwhile.
03-26-18, 10:20 AM
#30
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Great feedback, thanks everyone! Seems like the short answer is, easy enough to swap out and sell if I don't like the mid compact.
I prefer climbing to sprinting, and (gasp), I probably freewheel, or even brake, far more than I pedal on the downhill. I may see how I like the 52/36 first. Right now I have a 50/34 paired with a 12-32 cassette (ten speed setup).
For my weight I have decent power, but when the grades in my area go from 10% to 15%, and then up (in some cases even over 20%), I really like not having to pedal at 20 rpm, or fall over :-). With the new 11 speed from Shimano, it looks like I could get the same ratio with a 36-34 combination as with my current 34-32, so I guess there is that to consider as well.
q
I prefer climbing to sprinting, and (gasp), I probably freewheel, or even brake, far more than I pedal on the downhill. I may see how I like the 52/36 first. Right now I have a 50/34 paired with a 12-32 cassette (ten speed setup).
For my weight I have decent power, but when the grades in my area go from 10% to 15%, and then up (in some cases even over 20%), I really like not having to pedal at 20 rpm, or fall over :-). With the new 11 speed from Shimano, it looks like I could get the same ratio with a 36-34 combination as with my current 34-32, so I guess there is that to consider as well.
q
My logic is as follows: I often end up climbing at 40-50 cadence on the toughest climbs. More low gears will get me up those climbs faster and with less destruction to the legs that will impact the rest of the day. If I'm climbing that crap, you can bet I'm descending it too, and I will spin out on the steepest parts of the descent. Not so much that I couldn't pedal, but that it becomes hamsterish, and I don't usually bother. But sometimes I do, and when I do, like to catch onto a draft or to catch someone before a switchback, at which point, sure, I'm hamster spinning briefly. On the 50.
But not pedaling on the steepest descents is much less of a loss of time than being destroyed on the steepest climbs, so I go with the 34/50 rings. I even went 11-32 cassette. WHAT? wtf for? Well in my defense I do hit some 14-18% stuff every year, and the gearing is critical for those rides, and never "a problem" for other rides.
Were I Nibali, hammering downhill at 50+ MPH to make time in a pro race, then yeah, sure, I'd be running a full size crank. But I'd also be climbing at 80 cadence on the 39/28 with my 6w/kg FTP.
TL;DR - If you are strong enough to climb your toughest climbs at a reasonable cadence on the 36, then get the 36/52. If not, then get the 34/50. Simple.
But not pedaling on the steepest descents is much less of a loss of time than being destroyed on the steepest climbs, so I go with the 34/50 rings. I even went 11-32 cassette. WHAT? wtf for? Well in my defense I do hit some 14-18% stuff every year, and the gearing is critical for those rides, and never "a problem" for other rides.
Were I Nibali, hammering downhill at 50+ MPH to make time in a pro race, then yeah, sure, I'd be running a full size crank. But I'd also be climbing at 80 cadence on the 39/28 with my 6w/kg FTP.
TL;DR - If you are strong enough to climb your toughest climbs at a reasonable cadence on the 36, then get the 36/52. If not, then get the 34/50. Simple.
03-26-18, 11:26 AM
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Turning 120rpm while barreling downhill is the last thing I want to do. I want the stability of substantial torque on the pedals and the solid feel of connection through the drivetrain. I don’t want to upset by bumps or caught improperly weighted when my tires need traction.
When I lived in Avon, CO, I fitted a 58t to my bike for this reason; my rides were up and down. It wasn’t ideally suited for the valley ride west out 6 to Glenwood Springs, but coming down mountain roads confidently at speeds well north of 50mph made the trade off worthwhile.
When I lived in Avon, CO, I fitted a 58t to my bike for this reason; my rides were up and down. It wasn’t ideally suited for the valley ride west out 6 to Glenwood Springs, but coming down mountain roads confidently at speeds well north of 50mph made the trade off worthwhile.
03-26-18, 11:54 AM
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Hmm, I think it was a 39t inner; that was back in '98, so I don't recall that well. Similarly, the shift performance I don't recall well, either, but I think that bike (a red Bridgestone RB2) was 7spd Ultegra (downtube levers, of course).
03-26-18, 07:00 PM
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But still, if anyone says 90rpm in their toughest gear is spinning out, i would quietly think they are misusing the terms and dont understand what spinning out means.
90rpm is simply not spinning out because they could always pedal 100rpm...which is a very commonly achieved rpm.
A simple spin class would help those who think 90rpm is spinning out(meaning they cant pedal faster and make the bike go faster).
03-26-18, 11:40 PM
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Sure, spinning out is subjective.
But still, if anyone says 90rpm in their toughest gear is spinning out, i would quietly think they are misusing the terms and dont understand what spinning out means.
90rpm is simply not spinning out because they could always pedal 100rpm...which is a very commonly achieved rpm.
A simple spin class would help those who think 90rpm is spinning out(meaning they cant pedal faster and make the bike go faster).
But still, if anyone says 90rpm in their toughest gear is spinning out, i would quietly think they are misusing the terms and dont understand what spinning out means.
90rpm is simply not spinning out because they could always pedal 100rpm...which is a very commonly achieved rpm.
A simple spin class would help those who think 90rpm is spinning out(meaning they cant pedal faster and make the bike go faster).
Last edited by 2018Roubaix; 03-27-18 at 12:06 AM.
03-27-18, 10:11 AM
#35
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I haven't claimed that. Havent suggested it. Nothing i posted should even make you think this.
I help teens learn and train to ride across our state and they put over 1500mi on bikes each summer on this activity alone. Point is, i come to the opinion i have because i see claims of spinning out a lot each year.
Your example of being able to ride 90rpm with a larger ring than 120rpm isnt an example of spinning out.
Again, this isnt me suggesting i can ride better than you or anyone else. I probably cant ride 'better'. I just disagree with what many think is spinning out.
I liked your pre-edited post better.
I help teens learn and train to ride across our state and they put over 1500mi on bikes each summer on this activity alone. Point is, i come to the opinion i have because i see claims of spinning out a lot each year.
Your example of being able to ride 90rpm with a larger ring than 120rpm isnt an example of spinning out.
Again, this isnt me suggesting i can ride better than you or anyone else. I probably cant ride 'better'. I just disagree with what many think is spinning out.
I liked your pre-edited post better.
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