Bike stuff that bugs you more than it bugs most people
#376
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I just realized my list excluded possibly my biggest pet peeve - dirty/greasy drivetrain. Not necessarily on others' bikes (not my problem if you want to deal with the mess).
I've ditched grease/oil altogether and have gone the Molten Speedwax route for several years now, and will never go back. Silky smooth and spotlessly clean.
I guess my years of commuting with a belt drive/IGH setup decreased my tolerance for dirty driveline beyond my already low level, once I re-integrated chains into my life.
I've ditched grease/oil altogether and have gone the Molten Speedwax route for several years now, and will never go back. Silky smooth and spotlessly clean.
I guess my years of commuting with a belt drive/IGH setup decreased my tolerance for dirty driveline beyond my already low level, once I re-integrated chains into my life.
Last edited by canyoneagle; 01-05-21 at 10:19 AM.
#377
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More than aesthetics, there is a practical reason for going bottom-top, primarily the direction of the overlap as it relates to the direction of your hand placement/movement. For folks who spend alot of time on the hoods/tops, the bottom/top wrap yields a more compatible overlap, whereas the top/bottom results in an overlap that will very readily peel/roll or gap as the miles pass.
Who among us can remember gaps in their Benotto pearlescent tape or rolled edges of cloth/cork tape on the top bends and above their hoods after trying the top/bottom wrap?
Personally, I'll take a small strip of tape at the center of my bar to messy tape edges and gaps any day
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#378
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I've wound bottom to top for nearly 40 years - the center tape has always been an element of a properly finished bar, in the minds of many (myself included).
More than aesthetics, there is a practical reason for going bottom-top, primarily the direction of the overlap as it relates to the direction of your hand placement/movement. For folks who spend alot of time on the hoods/tops, the bottom/top wrap yields a more compatible overlap, whereas the top/bottom results in an overlap that will very readily peel/roll or gap as the miles pass.
Who among us can remember gaps in their Benotto pearlescent tape or rolled edges of cloth/cork tape on the top bends and above their hoods after trying the top/bottom wrap?
Personally, I'll take a small strip of tape at the center of my bar to messy tape edges and gaps any day
More than aesthetics, there is a practical reason for going bottom-top, primarily the direction of the overlap as it relates to the direction of your hand placement/movement. For folks who spend alot of time on the hoods/tops, the bottom/top wrap yields a more compatible overlap, whereas the top/bottom results in an overlap that will very readily peel/roll or gap as the miles pass.
Who among us can remember gaps in their Benotto pearlescent tape or rolled edges of cloth/cork tape on the top bends and above their hoods after trying the top/bottom wrap?
Personally, I'll take a small strip of tape at the center of my bar to messy tape edges and gaps any day
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#379
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Funny thing, and I wonder if others here have experienced this - more than once I've come down the road on my bicycle and passed by motorcyclists who have extended the wave that I used to get and return when I rode a motorcycle. There is a commonality in that car and truck motorists often fail to look out for two wheeled road users. Anyone else?
What I find interesting is that I get it a lot more when riding the recumbents than when riding the upright bikes. Maybe I'm more recognizable as kin when leaning back than when leaning forward?
I do try to wave to the motorcyclists more often now, just to try to expand the sense of community. A little positive public relations never hurts!
Steve in Peoria
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#382
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to wit:
https://youtu.be/5MzIiv7pewE
https://youtu.be/5MzIiv7pewE
I guess it all depends on where you prefer to have your tape rolling. Rolling is going to happen regardless if you utilize the bar's real estate to the fullest extent possible.
Top down for me, and sometimes I use an alternating finishing tape. Sometimes not.
DD
#383
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i've seen some folks wrap the tops down and then from the bar ends up finishing off both at the levers
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#384
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I'm frightened by the very large flat pedals with the knarly grippy studs for foot traction.
They are shin rippers to me.
They are friendly to my wife and some of her riding friends.
They are shin rippers to me.
They are friendly to my wife and some of her riding friends.
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#385
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ha! there was a time in my younger years of riding knobby platforms i shied away because of the shin damage. i don't ride them, anymore. i like toe straps. getting stuck in them sucks....and then it's bloody elbows
#386
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Wrap from top to bottom and the tape will roll from contact on the tops of the bars, okay. But! Wrap from the bottom to top and the tape will roll from contact on the drops.
I guess it all depends on where you prefer to have your tape rolling. Rolling is going to happen regardless if you utilize the bar's real estate to the fullest extent possible.
Top down for me, and sometimes I use an alternating finishing tape. Sometimes not.
DD
I guess it all depends on where you prefer to have your tape rolling. Rolling is going to happen regardless if you utilize the bar's real estate to the fullest extent possible.
Top down for me, and sometimes I use an alternating finishing tape. Sometimes not.
DD
Tim
#387
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DD
#388
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More terminology: "vintage"
#389
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Wrap from top to bottom and the tape will roll from contact on the tops of the bars, okay. But! Wrap from the bottom to top and the tape will roll from contact on the drops.
I guess it all depends on where you prefer to have your tape rolling. Rolling is going to happen regardless if you utilize the bar's real estate to the fullest extent possible.
Top down for me, and sometimes I use an alternating finishing tape. Sometimes not.
DD
I guess it all depends on where you prefer to have your tape rolling. Rolling is going to happen regardless if you utilize the bar's real estate to the fullest extent possible.
Top down for me, and sometimes I use an alternating finishing tape. Sometimes not.
DD
But none of these are peeves for me, so maybe this bar tape stuff is just off-topic.
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#391
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Non-aero brake cable housing where the loops pass beneath the handlebar from the front side. Yikes.
Splatter patterned bar tape.
Tires colored to match the trim of the bike. Tires should be black or tan/black. In some exceptional cases, wider tires can be cream colored. Otherwise...no.
Splatter patterned bar tape.
Tires colored to match the trim of the bike. Tires should be black or tan/black. In some exceptional cases, wider tires can be cream colored. Otherwise...no.
#392
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The one exception to this I've found is where the closing the lever would interfere with a disc brake caliper combined with a thicker MTB fork. Flipping the front skewer gives the lever free movement on the drive side. I know, otherwise a heresy.
#393
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#394
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Wrap from top to bottom and the tape will roll from contact on the tops of the bars, okay. But! Wrap from the bottom to top and the tape will roll from contact on the drops.
I guess it all depends on where you prefer to have your tape rolling. Rolling is going to happen regardless if you utilize the bar's real estate to the fullest extent possible.
DD
I guess it all depends on where you prefer to have your tape rolling. Rolling is going to happen regardless if you utilize the bar's real estate to the fullest extent possible.
DD
My question is whether this (and other) advice is specific to a type of tape, and whether there are factors that determine whether the edge of the tape will roll.
Honestly, I thought this debate was only relevant to cloth tape. I've always wrapped cork-ish tape from bottom up because ... I think that is what the instructions showed? It's been so long!
Plus, cotton tape was finished at the bottom partly because you could just shove it in the end of the bar and secure it with the bar plug. That was never going to work with the thick tapes.
Personally, I don't recall the tape ever rolling, regardless of the type or direction of wrap (with the disclaimer that I always wrap cloth from top to bottom, and cork from bottom to top). Cloth tape wears out before it rolls, or just starts looking terrible. Cork-ish tapes get filthy or get loose, or both.
I think some proper research is in order! I recently wrapped a bike with Tressostar cloth tape using the Harlequin pattern. The bike uses bar end shifters, so I had to wrap the top half from the stem down to the brake levers, and the bottom half from the bar ends up to the brake levers. Maybe I'll get both halves rolling at the edges? Maybe neither? I'm betting it will just get too faded and nasty before either happens.
(sorry... no good photos)
Steve in Peoria
#395
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Wrap from top to bottom and the tape will roll from contact on the tops of the bars, okay. But! Wrap from the bottom to top and the tape will roll from contact on the drops.
I guess it all depends on where you prefer to have your tape rolling. Rolling is going to happen regardless if you utilize the bar's real estate to the fullest extent possible.
Top down for me, and sometimes I use an alternating finishing tape. Sometimes not.
DD
I guess it all depends on where you prefer to have your tape rolling. Rolling is going to happen regardless if you utilize the bar's real estate to the fullest extent possible.
Top down for me, and sometimes I use an alternating finishing tape. Sometimes not.
DD
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#397
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This gives you the wrong overlap direction on both parts of the bar. Starting at the levers and working towards the top and towards the ends would give you the right overlap. However, it wouldn't eliminate the finishing tape on top, which is the hang-up for some people.
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#398
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perhaps. i'm just sayin' i've seen people do that. i just wrap from the bar ends up, personally. never been a problem for me
#399
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People do lots of things that don't make sense - LOL. That said, I'm an ends-up guy, too.
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#400
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