Inexpensive Bike for Large Riders
#26
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Throwing my 2 cents in, I agree that a mountain bike sounds good. IMHO, a non-suspension MTB bike might be best. The tires, which should be new (fairly fresh at least), will provide some "suspension". An old steel MTB in top shape for $50 to $100 +/- would be a good start. Good fit, good tires, good brake pads, reasonably well adjusted components, and wheels that spin true (aligned). Start slow with it, make sure it works right and will hold up. (If pro athlete or similar, disregard the following comments) ... If you STICK with cycling and cut down on the troublesome 3 (fats, salt and sugar), try to eliminate fast and processed foods, and drink water, you should drop weight over a course of time. Think months not minutes. Make it a routine. Don't worry about it. A touring bike, IMHO, would be a good choice at 250, drop bar or flat bar performance road bike at 225. An older Schwinn Suburban, mentioned above, may also work. They are seriously well made. Just watch out for rusted spokes. Again, just my 2 cents. Newer, inexpensive bikes have flimsy alloy rims that "taco" (bend, fold up). I wouldn't trust the forks, suspension or rigid, either. I ride alot, group rides and solo, worked as a bike mechanic in college, and have ridden alot of bikes alot of miles. It is a pretty
good addiction.
good addiction.
#27
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I weigh 280 and get on fine with an aluminum frame, used trek 7200 hybrid bike having 36 spokes each wheel, bought at lbs with new cassete, chain and tire for $280.00. Watching ads on line I recently got a used fuji touring bike that has a 40 spoke rear and 36 spoke front, steel frame. Needed some work, not quite done, will have about $400.00 in it pretty much rebuilt when done. I joined the bike co-op in my city for $35 and they held my hand on all work, got some parts free, learned a lot. If you have access to such a source I highly reccomend that path.
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I weigh 280 and get on fine with an aluminum frame, used trek 7200 hybrid bike having 36 spokes each wheel, bought at lbs with new cassete, chain and tire for $280.00. Watching ads on line I recently got a used fuji touring bike that has a 40 spoke rear and 36 spoke front, steel frame. Needed some work, not quite done, will have about $400.00 in it pretty much rebuilt when done. I joined the bike co-op in my city for $35 and they held my hand on all work, got some parts free, learned a lot. If you have access to such a source I highly reccomend that path.
#30
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When I got back into riding I used my old beach cruiser. Rode a lot of miles on it. When I realized I was going to stick to it I went the $500 hybrid route.
#31
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Also I would look at this place for an extra strength 48 spoke bike polo wheel / wheelset.
https://boxwoodbicyclepolo.com/wheels.html
https://boxwoodbicyclepolo.com/wheels.html
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#32
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I started out where you are. I went down to the local bike shop and picked up a used specialized hardrock mountain bike. Then I changed out the tires for something like Hutchinson Acrobats.
The fork was trashed when I got it, and when it bothers me enough I will swap it out with a geometry correct fixed fork. This bike came in at $315 plus $60 for the new tires and another $30 for some wider handlebars, another $50 for some BMX style pedals (I put most pressure on the outside of my feet. After 1 year, I trashed out the rear wheel, but that was my fault. I got too ambitious on a trail that was a little too technical for me. A new wheel was another $110 dollars.
So after 4 years of ownership (not counting small accessories (toolbag, tubes, lights for commuting,frame pumps) I am in for about $500.
Along the way I bought a steel road bike $200, and sold it (shouldn't have). Also I picked up a Kona Dew hybrid about $500, which is awesome for what I want to do. (paved trails, some gravel, to the train station.
In general, check your local bike shop used section, you are going to want to start building a relationship there anyway. Test ride everything that looks even remotely possible. You can tell within just a few minutes if it will feel good.
There is a huge quality difference from 300 to 500. And if you cant afford it at the beginning, just buy the best you can, and be willing to spend on it as you go. I log my miles and "pay" myself 55 cents a mile for parts. That way, when I know I want some new light system, I only have 4 x 15 mile rides to go.
Do not cheap out on parts where your body meets the machine. Buy a saddle, handlebars, pedals that fit good. I still use the factory seat (it's fine) but I have upgraded the handlebars to bring them higher, and spread out my hands, and pedals.
Hope this helps.
The fork was trashed when I got it, and when it bothers me enough I will swap it out with a geometry correct fixed fork. This bike came in at $315 plus $60 for the new tires and another $30 for some wider handlebars, another $50 for some BMX style pedals (I put most pressure on the outside of my feet. After 1 year, I trashed out the rear wheel, but that was my fault. I got too ambitious on a trail that was a little too technical for me. A new wheel was another $110 dollars.
So after 4 years of ownership (not counting small accessories (toolbag, tubes, lights for commuting,frame pumps) I am in for about $500.
Along the way I bought a steel road bike $200, and sold it (shouldn't have). Also I picked up a Kona Dew hybrid about $500, which is awesome for what I want to do. (paved trails, some gravel, to the train station.
In general, check your local bike shop used section, you are going to want to start building a relationship there anyway. Test ride everything that looks even remotely possible. You can tell within just a few minutes if it will feel good.
There is a huge quality difference from 300 to 500. And if you cant afford it at the beginning, just buy the best you can, and be willing to spend on it as you go. I log my miles and "pay" myself 55 cents a mile for parts. That way, when I know I want some new light system, I only have 4 x 15 mile rides to go.
Do not cheap out on parts where your body meets the machine. Buy a saddle, handlebars, pedals that fit good. I still use the factory seat (it's fine) but I have upgraded the handlebars to bring them higher, and spread out my hands, and pedals.
Hope this helps.
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#33
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I started out where you are. I went down to the local bike shop and picked up a used specialized hardrock mountain bike. Then I changed out the tires for something like Hutchinson Acrobats.
The fork was trashed when I got it, and when it bothers me enough I will swap it out with a geometry correct fixed fork. This bike came in at $315 plus $60 for the new tires and another $30 for some wider handlebars, another $50 for some BMX style pedals (I put most pressure on the outside of my feet. After 1 year, I trashed out the rear wheel, but that was my fault. I got too ambitious on a trail that was a little too technical for me. A new wheel was another $110 dollars.
So after 4 years of ownership (not counting small accessories (toolbag, tubes, lights for commuting,frame pumps) I am in for about $500.
Along the way I bought a steel road bike $200, and sold it (shouldn't have). Also I picked up a Kona Dew hybrid about $500, which is awesome for what I want to do. (paved trails, some gravel, to the train station.
In general, check your local bike shop used section, you are going to want to start building a relationship there anyway. Test ride everything that looks even remotely possible. You can tell within just a few minutes if it will feel good.
There is a huge quality difference from 300 to 500. And if you cant afford it at the beginning, just buy the best you can, and be willing to spend on it as you go. I log my miles and "pay" myself 55 cents a mile for parts. That way, when I know I want some new light system, I only have 4 x 15 mile rides to go.
Do not cheap out on parts where your body meets the machine. Buy a saddle, handlebars, pedals that fit good. I still use the factory seat (it's fine) but I have upgraded the handlebars to bring them higher, and spread out my hands, and pedals.
The fork was trashed when I got it, and when it bothers me enough I will swap it out with a geometry correct fixed fork. This bike came in at $315 plus $60 for the new tires and another $30 for some wider handlebars, another $50 for some BMX style pedals (I put most pressure on the outside of my feet. After 1 year, I trashed out the rear wheel, but that was my fault. I got too ambitious on a trail that was a little too technical for me. A new wheel was another $110 dollars.
So after 4 years of ownership (not counting small accessories (toolbag, tubes, lights for commuting,frame pumps) I am in for about $500.
Along the way I bought a steel road bike $200, and sold it (shouldn't have). Also I picked up a Kona Dew hybrid about $500, which is awesome for what I want to do. (paved trails, some gravel, to the train station.
In general, check your local bike shop used section, you are going to want to start building a relationship there anyway. Test ride everything that looks even remotely possible. You can tell within just a few minutes if it will feel good.
There is a huge quality difference from 300 to 500. And if you cant afford it at the beginning, just buy the best you can, and be willing to spend on it as you go. I log my miles and "pay" myself 55 cents a mile for parts. That way, when I know I want some new light system, I only have 4 x 15 mile rides to go.
Do not cheap out on parts where your body meets the machine. Buy a saddle, handlebars, pedals that fit good. I still use the factory seat (it's fine) but I have upgraded the handlebars to bring them higher, and spread out my hands, and pedals.
And my comment regarding the 2 bike entry to cycling is this:
If you are out-of-shape or oversized or just-hate-to-exercise-but-let's-try-cycling;
You have an exercise need and a 'new routine' need - which MIGHT be cycling.
Come in affordably, but find comfy saddle and handlebar and gloves. Geared correctly for your terrain.
If you like the routine and/or see fitness improvement -
you will soon desire bike #2 ,
(and likely deserve it)
more than you can explain to a Sig Other.
And if you get pretty good at the sport = likely #3 .
Folks who get hooked need #4 .
Then people like me,
who want to ride every quality, lightweight, road tubeset made since the 1960's;
but the SO said, "Only Euro from 70s+80s."
A man has to know his limitations
and pick his battles.
Just find good hobbies
with physical rewards.
Here’s some. Never enough.
I used to be more than a stone over 200lbs, as a cyclist with a late night dessert issue.
Last edited by Wildwood; 05-04-20 at 04:03 PM.