Will mashing make you faster/stronger?
#26
Professional Fuss-Budget
In this context, "efficiency" (or "gross efficiency," to be precise) refers to the ratio of oxygen consumption to power output.
Long story short: You put out more power per minute with a slower cadence, but your aerobic system needs to work significantly harder to keep it up. Your "force effectiveness" (also called "mechanical effectiveness") is high, but your gross efficiency is lower.
https://link.springer.com/article/10....421-011-1914-3
Correct.
Correct. (Though you also have more points when you are supplying force to the drivetrain.)
However, you're leaving the aerobic system out of the equation. When you're mashing, you are predominantly using your leg's muscles, which can be powerful but can't keep it up for long, and makes the rest of your body work harder. When you spin, you are shifting the effort to your aerobic system. As long as you don't go anaerobic, and can maintain a good calorie/carb intake, you can literally cycle all day long.
It is, but afaik that isn't because of the pedal stroke. It's because the chain is always in a straight line, and there is far less friction than if you are using a rear derailleur.
Long story short: You put out more power per minute with a slower cadence, but your aerobic system needs to work significantly harder to keep it up. Your "force effectiveness" (also called "mechanical effectiveness") is high, but your gross efficiency is lower.
https://link.springer.com/article/10....421-011-1914-3
It seems to me, since power applied to the crank is sinusoidal, using I think Drew's term, higher cadence means a higher frequency and lower amplitude force...
and more interruptions to a continuous feed of supply. You have more points in a minute where your force drops to zero.
However, you're leaving the aerobic system out of the equation. When you're mashing, you are predominantly using your leg's muscles, which can be powerful but can't keep it up for long, and makes the rest of your body work harder. When you spin, you are shifting the effort to your aerobic system. As long as you don't go anaerobic, and can maintain a good calorie/carb intake, you can literally cycle all day long.
By the same token, isn't a single speed more efficient than a geared bike?
#27
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In this context, "efficiency" (or "gross efficiency," to be precise) refers to the ratio of oxygen consumption to power output.
Long story short: You put out more power per minute with a slower cadence, but your aerobic system needs to work significantly harder to keep it up. Your "force effectiveness" (also called "mechanical effectiveness") is high, but your gross efficiency is lower.
Long story short: You put out more power per minute with a slower cadence, but your aerobic system needs to work significantly harder to keep it up. Your "force effectiveness" (also called "mechanical effectiveness") is high, but your gross efficiency is lower.
Also, I listed the same reasons you did for why a single speed is more efficient, and didn't say it had anything to do with cadence. I only brought it up because I often see posts saying geared bikes are more efficient than single speeds. It was an example of people using the word efficient, IMO, incorrectly.
Could someone with science weigh in? Like Drew?
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In this context, "efficiency" (or "gross efficiency," to be precise) refers to the ratio of oxygen consumption to power output.
Long story short: You put out more power per minute with a slower cadence, but your aerobic system needs to work significantly harder to keep it up. Your "force effectiveness" (also called "mechanical effectiveness") is high, but your gross efficiency is lower.
https://link.springer.com/article/10....421-011-1914-3
...
Long story short: You put out more power per minute with a slower cadence, but your aerobic system needs to work significantly harder to keep it up. Your "force effectiveness" (also called "mechanical effectiveness") is high, but your gross efficiency is lower.
https://link.springer.com/article/10....421-011-1914-3
...
My questions in the aerobic case are: How much power does the change in gross efficiency represent, and how much does the difference vary between individuals? My purely personal reason to wonder is that when riding at tempo I can detect no difference in my heart rate or respiration rate when riding at a higher or low cadence. Unfortunately without power equipment I can draw no firm conclusion from that, but who wants to waste 20 watts for example at a less efficient cadence?
#29
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How'd we get off the rails and over in this pasture again? Efficiency, as correctly defined by BG above, goes down as cadence goes up. IIRC from reading many studies of the matter, GE peaks around a 55 cadence. So if you were well-trained at using this cadence, you'd be fastest up say one 15 minute hill at this cadence. The problem is that low cadence burns glycogen more quickly, so we run out more quickly. Hence long periods of high power output demand that we use the normally advocated 85-105 cadence on the flat. Due to the lower climbing speeds and thus momentum of most recreational riders, a somewhat lower cadence of 70-85 is usually faster on long climbs. This seems to be due to a greater ease of varied muscle recruitment at lower speeds and cadence.
Be that as it may, IME and in the studies mentioned in this thread, climbing ability is improved by low cadence workouts. SS is not more efficient as defined. In fact, it's the least efficient, since the rider will very seldom be in either the most desirable or efficient cadence. The minuscule change in drive train friction losses is unnoticeable beside the much greater physiological losses.
Be that as it may, IME and in the studies mentioned in this thread, climbing ability is improved by low cadence workouts. SS is not more efficient as defined. In fact, it's the least efficient, since the rider will very seldom be in either the most desirable or efficient cadence. The minuscule change in drive train friction losses is unnoticeable beside the much greater physiological losses.
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SS is not more efficient as defined. In fact, it's the least efficient, since the rider will very seldom be in either the most desirable or efficient cadence. The minuscule change in drive train friction losses is unnoticeable beside the much greater physiological losses.
I will end my thread diversion, and apologize OP. I meant no derail, and thought it went in conjunction (except of course for the SS crap).
#32
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I've been thinking about cadence lately. I haven't been road cycling all that long, and learn a great deal by reading, that helps me understand what I'm doing while I ride, if I pay attention and observe. I read this thread with interest, and put it into context with what I've read in other sources about high cadence riding, why it's done, what it does for a rider, etc.
It's likely you guys are all thin with optimum cycling body types, and maybe this belongs in the Clydesdale forum, who knows. I'm a big guy at 6'3" and around 270 lbs (and falling, albeit slowly now). I used to be 380lbs. I dropped from wearing size 53/54 pants to currently wearing size 40 pants. What does this mean? It means I've got very large legs compared to the "ideal" cyclist.
So how does all this cadence talk change for people with large legs? It takes a certain amount of energy just to spin one's own leg mass. With zero resistance, there's still going to be a limit to how fast a person could spin just because accelerating one's legs up and down as they spin on a bike takes effort. The larger the legs, the more effort.
A few months ago when I configured my bike's computer to display cadence, I noticed I was riding a lot in the mid to upper 70s. After reading a lot about higher cadence, I've pushed my cadence up a bit and found some benefit, but I still max cruise at maybe 85 rpm. 90rpm definitely is red line for me. There's just too much leg to contemplate spinning any faster than that.
So I'm definitely more on the masher side of things than the spinner side. Even climbing, last weekend, when we did a 7300 foot climb up Mt. Lemmon in Tucson, Arizona, in my lowest gear I was mashing along at cadences generally in the 50s, but on the steeper grades it could get into the 40s. I'm still changing my gear configuration, with a compact crank on order that will arrive in a couple days from PBK. That will boost my RPMs during climbs somewhat, and I'm interested in seeing how that impacts my climbing endurance.
Anyhow, I'm starting to think that with my body type, I'm destined always to ride at a lower cadence than you thin guys, and instead of reading what you all do and trying to do it myself, I might be better served trying to optimize my bike and riding style for the type of body I have. I'm thinking of moving from a 175mm crank to a 180mm, for instance, to complement my lower-cadence mashing style and perhaps improve my endurance by reducing the effort those fast-twitch muscles have to put out for each rotation.
Anyhow, mashing has certainly made me stronger. But it has had to, because mashing is what I'm stuck with.
It's likely you guys are all thin with optimum cycling body types, and maybe this belongs in the Clydesdale forum, who knows. I'm a big guy at 6'3" and around 270 lbs (and falling, albeit slowly now). I used to be 380lbs. I dropped from wearing size 53/54 pants to currently wearing size 40 pants. What does this mean? It means I've got very large legs compared to the "ideal" cyclist.
So how does all this cadence talk change for people with large legs? It takes a certain amount of energy just to spin one's own leg mass. With zero resistance, there's still going to be a limit to how fast a person could spin just because accelerating one's legs up and down as they spin on a bike takes effort. The larger the legs, the more effort.
A few months ago when I configured my bike's computer to display cadence, I noticed I was riding a lot in the mid to upper 70s. After reading a lot about higher cadence, I've pushed my cadence up a bit and found some benefit, but I still max cruise at maybe 85 rpm. 90rpm definitely is red line for me. There's just too much leg to contemplate spinning any faster than that.
So I'm definitely more on the masher side of things than the spinner side. Even climbing, last weekend, when we did a 7300 foot climb up Mt. Lemmon in Tucson, Arizona, in my lowest gear I was mashing along at cadences generally in the 50s, but on the steeper grades it could get into the 40s. I'm still changing my gear configuration, with a compact crank on order that will arrive in a couple days from PBK. That will boost my RPMs during climbs somewhat, and I'm interested in seeing how that impacts my climbing endurance.
Anyhow, I'm starting to think that with my body type, I'm destined always to ride at a lower cadence than you thin guys, and instead of reading what you all do and trying to do it myself, I might be better served trying to optimize my bike and riding style for the type of body I have. I'm thinking of moving from a 175mm crank to a 180mm, for instance, to complement my lower-cadence mashing style and perhaps improve my endurance by reducing the effort those fast-twitch muscles have to put out for each rotation.
Anyhow, mashing has certainly made me stronger. But it has had to, because mashing is what I'm stuck with.
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Indirectly, spinning builds capillary beds and Nicholson (sp). That will add to output in a round about way. Where I ride/climb lots of places my cadence is super slow. I rode some 19% grade last week and it was like walking up a ladder. My bike would move forward to the bottom of my stroke and stopped until I was able to mash the other leg to the bottom of my stroke. My front tire was wobbling back and forth to keep me upright. I doubt spinning on the flats equates to training for that type of climbing out side of above comment
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be kind to your knees, or maybe you want a torn knee meniscus
https://www.google.com/imgres?sa=X&bi...27&tx=84&ty=52
https://www.google.com/imgres?sa=X&bi...27&tx=84&ty=52
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I've been thinking about cadence lately. I haven't been road cycling all that long, and learn a great deal by reading, that helps me understand what I'm doing while I ride, if I pay attention and observe. I read this thread with interest, and put it into context with what I've read in other sources about high cadence riding, why it's done, what it does for a rider, etc.
It's likely you guys are all thin with optimum cycling body types, and maybe this belongs in the Clydesdale forum, who knows. I'm a big guy at 6'3" and around 270 lbs (and falling, albeit slowly now). I used to be 380lbs. I dropped from wearing size 53/54 pants to currently wearing size 40 pants. What does this mean? It means I've got very large legs compared to the "ideal" cyclist.
So how does all this cadence talk change for people with large legs? It takes a certain amount of energy just to spin one's own leg mass. With zero resistance, there's still going to be a limit to how fast a person could spin just because accelerating one's legs up and down as they spin on a bike takes effort. The larger the legs, the more effort.
A few months ago when I configured my bike's computer to display cadence, I noticed I was riding a lot in the mid to upper 70s. After reading a lot about higher cadence, I've pushed my cadence up a bit and found some benefit, but I still max cruise at maybe 85 rpm. 90rpm definitely is red line for me. There's just too much leg to contemplate spinning any faster than that.
So I'm definitely more on the masher side of things than the spinner side. Even climbing, last weekend, when we did a 7300 foot climb up Mt. Lemmon in Tucson, Arizona, in my lowest gear I was mashing along at cadences generally in the 50s, but on the steeper grades it could get into the 40s. I'm still changing my gear configuration, with a compact crank on order that will arrive in a couple days from PBK. That will boost my RPMs during climbs somewhat, and I'm interested in seeing how that impacts my climbing endurance.
Anyhow, I'm starting to think that with my body type, I'm destined always to ride at a lower cadence than you thin guys, and instead of reading what you all do and trying to do it myself, I might be better served trying to optimize my bike and riding style for the type of body I have. I'm thinking of moving from a 175mm crank to a 180mm, for instance, to complement my lower-cadence mashing style and perhaps improve my endurance by reducing the effort those fast-twitch muscles have to put out for each rotation.
Anyhow, mashing has certainly made me stronger. But it has had to, because mashing is what I'm stuck with.
It's likely you guys are all thin with optimum cycling body types, and maybe this belongs in the Clydesdale forum, who knows. I'm a big guy at 6'3" and around 270 lbs (and falling, albeit slowly now). I used to be 380lbs. I dropped from wearing size 53/54 pants to currently wearing size 40 pants. What does this mean? It means I've got very large legs compared to the "ideal" cyclist.
So how does all this cadence talk change for people with large legs? It takes a certain amount of energy just to spin one's own leg mass. With zero resistance, there's still going to be a limit to how fast a person could spin just because accelerating one's legs up and down as they spin on a bike takes effort. The larger the legs, the more effort.
A few months ago when I configured my bike's computer to display cadence, I noticed I was riding a lot in the mid to upper 70s. After reading a lot about higher cadence, I've pushed my cadence up a bit and found some benefit, but I still max cruise at maybe 85 rpm. 90rpm definitely is red line for me. There's just too much leg to contemplate spinning any faster than that.
So I'm definitely more on the masher side of things than the spinner side. Even climbing, last weekend, when we did a 7300 foot climb up Mt. Lemmon in Tucson, Arizona, in my lowest gear I was mashing along at cadences generally in the 50s, but on the steeper grades it could get into the 40s. I'm still changing my gear configuration, with a compact crank on order that will arrive in a couple days from PBK. That will boost my RPMs during climbs somewhat, and I'm interested in seeing how that impacts my climbing endurance.
Anyhow, I'm starting to think that with my body type, I'm destined always to ride at a lower cadence than you thin guys, and instead of reading what you all do and trying to do it myself, I might be better served trying to optimize my bike and riding style for the type of body I have. I'm thinking of moving from a 175mm crank to a 180mm, for instance, to complement my lower-cadence mashing style and perhaps improve my endurance by reducing the effort those fast-twitch muscles have to put out for each rotation.
Anyhow, mashing has certainly made me stronger. But it has had to, because mashing is what I'm stuck with.
So, back to cycling. This fellow on the podium:
has pretty good-sized legs, yet he can spin them very fast indeed, being a champion track racer.
All that said, as the previous discussion indicates, efficiency does go down for human cyclists as cadence goes up, I think due to losses involved in the rapid contraction of muscles, nothing to do with accelerating leg mass. And it may very well be that cyclists with higher leg mass lose efficiency more rapidly with increasing cadence than cyclists with lower leg mass. That's an interesting supposition and I wonder if there's any evidence for it.
In any case, an 85 cadence is totally reasonable. I know a very strong long distance racer whose self-selected cadence is closer to 60. He's very unusual, though he can also spin very fast. It is advantageous to be able to ride at cadences inside a wide power band, whether they are more efficient or not. I suspect that with a bit of concentrated training, you could easily ride at cadences over 100 for short periods.
My advice, though it is not asked for and thus is dangerous to give, is to try holding a lower gear for a few minutes at a time. On the flat, spin up to where you start bouncing in the saddle and just stay there for 2-3 minutes. You'll be going slower than you would in your self-selected gear and cadence. Repeat a few times during a ride. Relax your legs and concentrate on cycling using the uppers on your shoes, with a cushion of air beneath your foot if possible. Concentrate on your feet. I think you'll see benefit from doing this in a couple of weeks, even if you don't change your normal self-selected cadence.
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Indirectly, spinning builds capillary beds and Nicholson (sp). That will add to output in a round about way. Where I ride/climb lots of places my cadence is super slow. I rode some 19% grade last week and it was like walking up a ladder. My bike would move forward to the bottom of my stroke and stopped until I was able to mash the other leg to the bottom of my stroke. My front tire was wobbling back and forth to keep me upright. I doubt spinning on the flats equates to training for that type of climbing out side of above comment.
#37
Senior Member
And, to be honest, I did take my 75 rpm and convert it to 85 rpm high cruising speed by thinking about it and working accordingly. I can't say for sure that just because I cannot now spin at 95 rpm for longer than a few seconds that I couldn't develop the ability. I just don't know.
In any case, an 85 cadence is totally reasonable. I know a very strong long distance racer whose self-selected cadence is closer to 60. He's very unusual, though he can also spin very fast. It is advantageous to be able to ride at cadences inside a wide power band, whether they are more efficient or not. I suspect that with a bit of concentrated training, you could easily ride at cadences over 100 for short periods.
My advice, though it is not asked for and thus is dangerous to give, is to try holding a lower gear for a few minutes at a time. On the flat, spin up to where you start bouncing in the saddle and just stay there for 2-3 minutes. You'll be going slower than you would in your self-selected gear and cadence. Repeat a few times during a ride. Relax your legs and concentrate on cycling using the uppers on your shoes, with a cushion of air beneath your foot if possible. Concentrate on your feet. I think you'll see benefit from doing this in a couple of weeks, even if you don't change your normal self-selected cadence.
#38
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Originally Posted by squatchy
Originally Posted by squatchy View Post
Indirectly, spinning builds capillary beds and Nicholson (sp). That will add to output in a round about way. Where I ride/climb lots of places my cadence is super slow. I rode some 19% grade last week and it was like walking up a ladder. My bike would move forward to the bottom of my stroke and stopped until I was able to mash the other leg to the bottom of my stroke. My front tire was wobbling back and forth to keep me upright. I doubt spinning on the flats equates to training for that type of climbing out side of above comment.
Indirectly, spinning builds capillary beds and Nicholson (sp). That will add to output in a round about way. Where I ride/climb lots of places my cadence is super slow. I rode some 19% grade last week and it was like walking up a ladder. My bike would move forward to the bottom of my stroke and stopped until I was able to mash the other leg to the bottom of my stroke. My front tire was wobbling back and forth to keep me upright. I doubt spinning on the flats equates to training for that type of climbing out side of above comment.
Either way, doesn't mashing up hills in higher gears somewhat mimic the squat machine in a gym?
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OTOH, the higher cadence can allow higher maximum power because you recruit more muscle fibers
Based on the contractile properties of human muscle it has been shown that maximal cycling power output is achieved at approximately 120-130 RPM
and lets you do that longer because you accumulate less fatigue.
These data strongly suggest that the optimal pedaling rate estimated from neuromuscular fatigue in working muscles is not coincident with the pedaling rate at which the smallest VO2 was obtained, but with the preferred pedaling rate of the subjects. Our findings also suggest that the reason that cyclists prefer a higher pedaling rate is closely related to the development of neuromuscular fatigue in the working muscles.
Empirically you'll do best (feel better, fatigue less, go faster) if you increase cadence with power output. Riding intervals approaching my lacate threshold 85-95 RPM average feels good, at a five minute pace 105 RPM works better, and sprinting I like to shift about 120 RPM although 60 RPM is great at a recovery pace.
The specifics vary between different individuals with varying balances of fast and slow twitch muscles a plausible hypothesis.
#40
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Just trying to keep up here. Surely you mean high gear? He said he was mashing up a hill at a very low cadence, indicating that he was in a higher gear. Or am I missing something?
Either way, doesn't mashing up hills in higher gears somewhat mimic the squat machine in a gym?
Either way, doesn't mashing up hills in higher gears somewhat mimic the squat machine in a gym?
1) I use a triple. IME, if I'm standing on a 19% grade and the bike stops when the pedal bottoms, I'm in my granny ring. So for a compact, small ring, large cog. If I were in the middle ring, the bike would have enough speed to keep moving. At 19%, I'd only climb out of the saddle in the middle ring at a sprint pace, so not more an a one minute hill, but I'm just an old duffer. If it were long, I'd sit it in my granny.
2) Somewhat. Barbell squats primarily strengthen the pushing muscles. If you sit a really steep hill, you'll quickly see you need a lot of other muscles to get involved in keeping the bike moving at a steady pace, which I think is what we're talking about in this thread. Pretty hard to stimulate all of them in the gym. I can sit a climb OK down to about a 30 cadence, keeping a steady pace. Fortunately, I've never seen a climb so steep that I couldn't sit it at 30 cadence in my granny. That's probably about 2 mph.
#41
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Yes that's what I am implying. Adaptation can occure at substantial levelsa for as many as 10 years. Tha's one reason why you normally don't see many youngsters do well in indurance sports. I have read ( I think in Charmichaels book, maybe Kogen) that as we train our bodies create much more capilarie beds so as to be able to deliver more oxygen to your muscles. Not only that but as we all know our veins and arteries get much larger to accomodate this as well. The reserch suggest that when we begin to train this may go on for 10 years before we have developed as much as we are able. Lastly, we also create more mitochondria as well as the current ones we have learn to produce better results from use.
In Tyler Hamiltons book I remember a statement he said that was something I also had known for a while. If you look at a riders legs you can tell how well they are developed to a good degree by looking to see how large and to what extent his arteries and veins are crawling all over his legs on the outside of the muscle and under the skin. What I am saying is that on long time invested riders thier blood vessels are huge and scrawl all over thier legs. Compare that to someone who does nothing and you can't even see any vessels. I work with my hands and my vessels on my arms are bigger that a pencil where as most people you can't even see any except for on the back of thier hands.
I have been told this is why the younger kids are not so impressive and that this is why guys come into thier prime in the late twenties rather than in the early twenties in endurance events. Lastly once this is built up it takes forever for it to dissapear and that is why long time rides loose thier fitness much slower than a guy like myself who has only ridden for a couple of years.
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Much of this depends on your pedaling technique. I understand that you were climbing out of the saddle in a very low gear. I never stand in a gear that low, i.e. in a gear in which I have no momentum to keep the bike moving. The next time you climb a hill like that, sit it. Hold your body still and just rotate the pedals, pushing and pulling on the pedals all the way around the circle. Don't allow the bike to decelerate and accelerate. That's how you build strength as is being discussed in this thread. Just dropping your weight onto the pedals costs you energy and doesn't build the same kind of muscular, cycling-specific strength.
I was actually in my granny gear and sitting. I always sit to climb if I'm"working out". It was so hard for me I could barely keep the bike moving. Any slower at all and I would have fallen over. It would seem to me that mimicks one legged presses in a squat machine pretty closely.
I sit on lots of pitches where most peps stand. I weigh #250 or more and it's my way of building leg strength. Of course I will stand if I can't get up sitting, or to keep up with my group (although at my weight most often I get dropped on longer climbs for a bit). I find that once I have spent my juice climbing sitting in my saddle, I really don't have far to go once I stand before I am spent because I have depleted both my oxygen and gasoline.
I doubt anyone realized how much energy we clydes have to expend to do some of what we do. My Garmin usually shows me burning 2 times the amount that my GF spends riding the same route. I have seen where I need to generate 450 watts to do what she gets done at less than half that.
#43
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Hi CFB
I was actually in my granny gear and sitting. I always sit to climb if I'm"working out". It was so hard for me I could barely keep the bike moving. Any slower at all and I would have fallen over. It would seem to me that mimicks one legged presses in a squat machine pretty closely.
I sit on lots of pitches where most peps stand. I weigh #250 or more and it's my way of building leg strength. Of course I will stand if I can't get up sitting, or to keep up with my group (although at my weight most often I get dropped on longer climbs for a bit). I find that once I have spent my juice climbing sitting in my saddle, I really don't have far to go once I stand before I am spent because I have depleted both my oxygen and gasoline.
I doubt anyone realized how much energy we clydes have to expend to do some of what we do. My Garmin usually shows me burning 2 times the amount that my GF spends riding the same route. I have seen where I need to generate 450 watts to do what she gets done at less than half that.
I was actually in my granny gear and sitting. I always sit to climb if I'm"working out". It was so hard for me I could barely keep the bike moving. Any slower at all and I would have fallen over. It would seem to me that mimicks one legged presses in a squat machine pretty closely.
I sit on lots of pitches where most peps stand. I weigh #250 or more and it's my way of building leg strength. Of course I will stand if I can't get up sitting, or to keep up with my group (although at my weight most often I get dropped on longer climbs for a bit). I find that once I have spent my juice climbing sitting in my saddle, I really don't have far to go once I stand before I am spent because I have depleted both my oxygen and gasoline.
I doubt anyone realized how much energy we clydes have to expend to do some of what we do. My Garmin usually shows me burning 2 times the amount that my GF spends riding the same route. I have seen where I need to generate 450 watts to do what she gets done at less than half that.
Anyway, next time you're on a steep hill, do as I described in that quoted post. Don't push down particularly. Instead, just rotate the pedals smoothly. Push forward at the top, hard, push down a little, pull back hard at the bottom, and pull up some on the backstroke. You'll find this very hard to do, but do it anyway. A few weeks of doing this and you'll notice positive results.
Another painful thing you can do is: on a slight grade, maybe 1%-2%, unclip one foot and pedal one-legged, trying really hard to keep a taut chain. Try to do that with each leg for at least 2 minutes. Ouch. But it works.
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squatchy
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Thank you for the clarification. Yes, I understand about the weight completely. I've been riding a tandem with my wife, who puts out less than half my watts. We weigh about 340 all-up.
Anyway, next time you're on a steep hill, do as I described in that quoted post. Don't push down particularly. Instead, just rotate the pedals smoothly. Push forward at the top, hard, push down a little, pull back hard at the bottom, and pull up some on the backstroke. You'll find this very hard to do, but do it anyway. A few weeks of doing this and you'll notice positive results.
Another painful thing you can do is: on a slight grade, maybe 1%-2%, unclip one foot and pedal one-legged, trying really hard to keep a taut chain. Try to do that with each leg for at least 2 minutes. Ouch. But it works.
Anyway, next time you're on a steep hill, do as I described in that quoted post. Don't push down particularly. Instead, just rotate the pedals smoothly. Push forward at the top, hard, push down a little, pull back hard at the bottom, and pull up some on the backstroke. You'll find this very hard to do, but do it anyway. A few weeks of doing this and you'll notice positive results.
Another painful thing you can do is: on a slight grade, maybe 1%-2%, unclip one foot and pedal one-legged, trying really hard to keep a taut chain. Try to do that with each leg for at least 2 minutes. Ouch. But it works.
Every spring I do a bit of one legged drills as well as a fewevery few months just to refresh my memory.
As a side bar, I have found, For me any way, that I used to ride with my saddle just a bit too high, even though I didn't rock back and forth. I have since learned that if I lower it just a bit I can really feel a difference in how easy (or not easy ) it is to get over the top of my stroke. I believe if I can get over the top a little more naturally then it surely must add to the overall fit/performance when riding in general. This is now how I fine tune my saddle height for myself and significant other FWIW
#45
squatchy
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I failed to say that it is with one leged drills that I could find the sweet spot for saddle height if that didn't seem obvious in my above post
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04-20-15 05:09 PM