700C to 26" Conversion Question
10-22-20, 08:38 PM
#26
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Welcome to bikeforums, @Het Volk. What does your name mean?
Speaking of fashion, I think the resurgence of single pivot side pull brakes was the result of fashion. We got center pull brakes which, while messy to set up, really worked better than side pull brakes. And we looked down our noses at bikes with side pull brakes, because mostly they came on lower end bikes. Then Campagnolo came out with side pull brakes, and they were fancy and expensive, and we wished we could afford them, so all the makers went back to side pulls for many bikes, and some of them got fancy (with finish etc). Some were pretty good, and some were not. I am blessed with large, strong hands, so they work for me, even most of the crappy ones. But they are not good for some people. The dual pivot solves most of the problems of both single pivots and center pulls. I took a long loaded tour with Weinmann side pulls in 1981. They were just about the worst choice, but I didn't know. There were some descents when I barely controlled the bike, and thank goodness for my hands. They equipped some touring bikes with brakes like those. What were they thinking? I can only say that fashion played too big a role.
Speaking of fashion, I think the resurgence of single pivot side pull brakes was the result of fashion. We got center pull brakes which, while messy to set up, really worked better than side pull brakes. And we looked down our noses at bikes with side pull brakes, because mostly they came on lower end bikes. Then Campagnolo came out with side pull brakes, and they were fancy and expensive, and we wished we could afford them, so all the makers went back to side pulls for many bikes, and some of them got fancy (with finish etc). Some were pretty good, and some were not. I am blessed with large, strong hands, so they work for me, even most of the crappy ones. But they are not good for some people. The dual pivot solves most of the problems of both single pivots and center pulls. I took a long loaded tour with Weinmann side pulls in 1981. They were just about the worst choice, but I didn't know. There were some descents when I barely controlled the bike, and thank goodness for my hands. They equipped some touring bikes with brakes like those. What were they thinking? I can only say that fashion played too big a role.
So - when I first got into amateur racing on my own (circa 2011), I fell in love with the first real European race of the season, the Omloop Het Nieusblad, which used to be known as Het Volk. I still consider it one of the best races of the season given the terrain, weather and history.
10-22-20, 08:40 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Welcome to bikeforums, @Het Volk. What does your name mean?
Speaking of fashion, I think the resurgence of single pivot side pull brakes was the result of fashion. We got center pull brakes which, while messy to set up, really worked better than side pull brakes. And we looked down our noses at bikes with side pull brakes, because mostly they came on lower end bikes. Then Campagnolo came out with side pull brakes, and they were fancy and expensive, and we wished we could afford them, so all the makers went back to side pulls for many bikes, and some of them got fancy (with finish etc). Some were pretty good, and some were not. I am blessed with large, strong hands, so they work for me, even most of the crappy ones. But they are not good for some people. The dual pivot solves most of the problems of both single pivots and center pulls. I took a long loaded tour with Weinmann side pulls in 1981. They were just about the worst choice, but I didn't know. There were some descents when I barely controlled the bike, and thank goodness for my hands. They equipped some touring bikes with brakes like those. What were they thinking? I can only say that fashion played too big a role.
Speaking of fashion, I think the resurgence of single pivot side pull brakes was the result of fashion. We got center pull brakes which, while messy to set up, really worked better than side pull brakes. And we looked down our noses at bikes with side pull brakes, because mostly they came on lower end bikes. Then Campagnolo came out with side pull brakes, and they were fancy and expensive, and we wished we could afford them, so all the makers went back to side pulls for many bikes, and some of them got fancy (with finish etc). Some were pretty good, and some were not. I am blessed with large, strong hands, so they work for me, even most of the crappy ones. But they are not good for some people. The dual pivot solves most of the problems of both single pivots and center pulls. I took a long loaded tour with Weinmann side pulls in 1981. They were just about the worst choice, but I didn't know. There were some descents when I barely controlled the bike, and thank goodness for my hands. They equipped some touring bikes with brakes like those. What were they thinking? I can only say that fashion played too big a role.
Yup....The Fuji America was equipped with side-pull, single pivot brakes. They were below average, but as someone who is 135 pounds when in race shape, and 150 pounds when not racing, not as big a deal.....on a normal bike. Add 60 pounds of gear for touring, and yikes!!!
10-22-20, 08:42 PM
#28
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Het Volk,
Aside from all th history, you said you have a clearance issue at the chainstays. You can increase the clearance between chainstays by dimpling in-between. While many here are totally DIY and will just take out a hammer and a big dowel and start beating away. I would send my bike to say, Gugie, and have it done with care and watchfulness.
650b has practical width up to 38 mm or 42 mm. To add a minimym of 3 mm per side, you need 48 mm free width. Depending on how you do fenders at that interface you may or may not need additional clearance.
In addition I'd add braze-on pivots, and I would probably set up for brazed center pulls rather than cantilevers of any sort.
I would not worry about crank length, but you can also test it and decide. Add a popsicle stick or a paper clip to your pedal, and test whether you are ever causing it to drag. This can set you up to make a good decision about BB height, pedal length, and crank length.
Aside from all th history, you said you have a clearance issue at the chainstays. You can increase the clearance between chainstays by dimpling in-between. While many here are totally DIY and will just take out a hammer and a big dowel and start beating away. I would send my bike to say, Gugie, and have it done with care and watchfulness.
650b has practical width up to 38 mm or 42 mm. To add a minimym of 3 mm per side, you need 48 mm free width. Depending on how you do fenders at that interface you may or may not need additional clearance.
In addition I'd add braze-on pivots, and I would probably set up for brazed center pulls rather than cantilevers of any sort.
I would not worry about crank length, but you can also test it and decide. Add a popsicle stick or a paper clip to your pedal, and test whether you are ever causing it to drag. This can set you up to make a good decision about BB height, pedal length, and crank length.
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10-22-20, 10:34 PM
#29
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i think "het volk" is Dutch for "the people." Where's @nonfixie when we need him....
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10-23-20, 03:47 AM
#30
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i think "het volk" is Dutch for "the people." Where's @nonfixie when we need him....
In 1953 they still rode for real prizes: booze, cigarettes, watches, radios. Ah, the good old days!
10-23-20, 08:02 AM
#31
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Assuming I just stick with the current set-up, I assume I can use Velo Orange fenders with P-Clamps due to the lack of braze-ons, correct?
10-23-20, 03:11 PM
#32
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Doesn't the frame have fender eyelets?
10-23-20, 05:16 PM
#33
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There may have been different specs for different markets, I also don't know whether the bike was all original-spec when you got it, but for the USA market the America was always spec'd with 700c wheels, not 27". So it shipped to dealers with tires labeled 700x28c, though I think they actually measured narrower.
So - this is interesting, because when spec'd with Panaracer 28MM tires for a 27" rim, the tire rubbed against the fork....which supports your statement. Likely, they were originally spec'd with 25MM tires, at 27" (while badged at 28MM), which allowed for the tire to work with those clearances on an older 27" rim.
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