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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Mountain bike Fixie conversion

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Old 12-02-12, 01:43 PM
  #26  
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I don't think you read through the posts.

A magnet is not suffice because it does not tell you the grade of the material. This is important to know for corrosion prevention.

My response about the track nuts is with regards to Bat56's most recent post.

I have been working on mechanical devices since I was 12. I have put together and taken apart many things and have a deep mechanical background.

What exactly am I throwing money away one? If you can't be specific then please stop clogging the thread and allow for constructive conversation to take place. It's defeating the purpose of using a forum.
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Old 12-02-12, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Rnauth1418
What is being over complicated?

The bike is painted, and I don't have the manual anymore. The only way to truly tell the grade of a material without serious effort it to hardness test it.
Dude, really? You're building a bicycle, not a rocket ship.

I don't have a fancy engineering degree and can tell whether a frame is steel or aluminum without having to perform a series of tests.

Originally Posted by Rnauth1418
I don't think you read through the posts.
Because they're overcomplicated.

Originally Posted by Rnauth1418
I have been working on mechanical devices since I was 12. I have put together and taken apart many things and have a deep mechanical background.
Yet you don't posses the common sense to know that a 1/8" chain will fit on a 3/32" cog.

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 12-02-12 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 12-02-12, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Dude, really? You're building a bicycle, not a rocket ship.

I don't have a fancy engineering degree and can tell whether a frame is steel or aluminum without having to perform a series of tests.

You're again missing the point. It was to tell what corrosive properties the material could have. It also helps when you're going to sand down those welds to know what you're working with.

And the weld bead does not tell you what material you're working with. It tells you how it was welded and how good the person is at welding. I know because I weld.

Also you're not being helpful with your responses. You're being confrontational which is not the post of a forum.

Last edited by Rnauth1418; 12-02-12 at 01:50 PM. Reason: Mis spelling
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Old 12-02-12, 01:54 PM
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Dude, you need to get over yourself. These are all things that are of no importance in converting a low-buck MTB to fixed gear. And yes, it is easy to tell whether a frame is aluminum or steel by looking ath the welds. Aside from that, even on my Dodici Gara - which has smooth welds - I can tell it's made of aluminum just by tapping a fingernail on the down tube.

By the way, you misspelled misspelling.
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Old 12-02-12, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Dude, really? You're building a bicycle, not a rocket ship.

I don't have a fancy engineering degree and can tell whether a frame is steel or aluminum without having to perform a series of tests.

Because they're overcomplicated.



Yet you don't posses the common sense to know that a 1/8" chain will fit on a 3/32" cog.
If you think they e over complicated then you're not responding to the proper points of the argument. I know that the 1/8th chain won't fit but my issue was in the pitch of the chain not the width. If you read the post you would know this. I would kindly ask you to stop posting if you reuse to be constructive and not educate yourself in the complete text of the thread.

I would kindly ask that you stop posting on this thread if you refuse to be constructive and educate yourself on the full text of this thread.

Last edited by Rnauth1418; 12-02-12 at 01:55 PM. Reason: Mis spelling
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Old 12-02-12, 01:58 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Rnauth1418
I know that the 1/8th chain won't fit but my issue was in the pitch of the chain not the width.
Unless you are dealing with a bicycle from the turn of last century (which you are not), there is no difference in pitch between 3/32" drive train components and 1/8".
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Old 12-02-12, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Rnauth1418
I don't think you read through the posts.

A magnet is not suffice because it does not tell you the grade of the material. This is important to know for corrosion prevention.
You might wanna know if you're dealing with steel or aluminum before you determine whether it's 1020, 4130, 6061, 7005, etc. Maybe that's just me. Why do you want to know corrosion resistance? Will this bike be parked outdoors 24/7?

Originally Posted by Rnauth1418
What exactly am I throwing money away one? If you can't be specific then please stop clogging the thread and allow for constructive conversation to take place. It's defeating the purpose of using a forum.
It's just stupid to pay someone $100 to paint a $3.50 frame. You can get completes with WAY better frames on CL for half the price of that paint job. Keep an eye out for a 1993 Specialized Rockhopper (or better), KHS Montana, Trek 930 or other 9xx, Giant Iguana or better, Nishiki Colorado or better...

Then find the magic ratio. Get a SS chainring and cog an spacers. Live to ride. Live to ride.

I've converted a REALLY crappy MTB to SS before, but with parts on hand. I couldn't fathom spending real money to do it. I snapped/bent two rear axles on mine. 7-speed freewheel axles are sooo easy to bend/break when you jump a bike. Go freehub if you can.
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Old 12-02-12, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Unless you are dealing with a bicycle from the turn of last century, there is no difference in pitch between 3/32" drive train components and 1/8".

Which is exactly why I am asking what the issue is with the chain fitting with respect to the width of the cog and not in the pitch of the cog teeth. A response to why this is the case would be helpful.
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Old 12-02-12, 02:11 PM
  #34  
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Dude! I have a bike that is using a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" cog and chainring. Guess what? No problems. What are you not understanding about that?

A 3/32" chain will not work on a 1/8" cog and/or chainring (because they are quite obviously too wide) but the other way around is just fine.
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Old 12-02-12, 02:14 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Dude! I have a bike that is using a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" cog and chainring. Guess what? No problems. What are you not understanding about that?

A 3/32" chain will not work on a 1/8" cog and/or chainring (because they are quite obviously too wide) but the other way around is just fine.
Merely anecdotal.

I'm gonna need to see some hardness test data, and perhaps the corrosive properties of said chain.
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Old 12-02-12, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_
Merely anecdotal.

I'm gonna need to see some hardness test data, and perhaps the corrosive properties of said chain.
Hahaha, OK you got us. You funny mech. eng. troll.
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Old 12-02-12, 02:22 PM
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I apologize, I did say that my 1/8th chain would not fit on my 3/32 cog. I mis-spoke. Clearly. The chain should fit this. I have tried placing my 1./8 chain on my 3/32 cog and I am having an issue of the pitch preventing the chain from sitting nicely on it.
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Old 12-02-12, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Rnauth1418
I have tried placing my 1./8 chain on my 3/32 cog and I am having an issue of the pitch preventing the chain from sitting nicely on it.
You could have a very worn out cog if this is the case. Pictures would really help.
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Old 12-02-12, 02:28 PM
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I actually just laid my chain length tester on the chain and realized that many of the links are severely stretched. I guess I should have test fitted the drive train with a better chain.

Just put a new sram 3/32 chain on it and it fits nicely all around the cog.

Thanks.
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Old 12-02-12, 02:45 PM
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Now, how about some pics???
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Old 12-03-12, 11:57 AM
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what most people here are trying to warn you about is you will likely spend more on your conversion than you could on an entire complete new bike if you factor in price of the components plus monetizing the time spent getting everything working together properly.

if you just want the nicest possible bike at the lowest possible price i'd probably agree; but if you are doing this as a learning experience you should absolutely go ahead and spend whatever you feel is justified, just don't be shocked when it ends up costing more than you thought it would/should.

you sound like you did enough research this ***** is actually pretty damn simple. you have the internet's official blessing if you show us some sweet pics when you get it built!
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Old 12-03-12, 02:43 PM
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I'm so dying to see pics of the sweet Pacific conversion. He put up that twatter pic link but his account is super secret so I can't see pic.

Maybe entire thread is a fishing for followers mission...
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Old 12-03-12, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
twatter
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Old 12-03-12, 03:05 PM
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OP, start posting with common sense and a non-confrontational tone. So far your thread sucks, big time. Post some questions that, in the scheme of your conversion, actually matter and we'll all be glad to help. Otherwise, I'm gonna start posting about helmets and get this mother shuddown.
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Old 12-03-12, 03:43 PM
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he said "helmet"
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Old 12-03-12, 03:47 PM
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No need for helmets. Humans skulls score higher on the Rockwell hardness test.
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Old 12-03-12, 04:23 PM
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Old 12-10-12, 11:28 AM
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Old 12-10-12, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Rnauth1418
What's the question?
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Old 12-10-12, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bat56
What's the question?
"How and why, after doing extensive research and performing so many rigorous tests, did I end up with such a half-assed bike?"

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 12-10-12 at 02:30 PM.
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