what is the best and most durable spray paint out there to paint a steel frame? any good techniques? websites? anything would be helpful....I was going to buy an old steel frame and repaint it.

Thanks

Do a few searches on the topic both on google and here on the BFs. The topic has come up quite a bit. Best advice I can say is not to put the paint on too thick and end up with a 'film' effect where the paint flakes off in huge sheets. Good prep work, primering are also very important. I'm currently painting a bike with DupliColor paints and so far so good.

As far as paint, you do get what you pay for. Cudas suggestion of Duplicolor is good. Krylon offers a variety of choices. I have used engine enamles with great success, but they aren't offered in a wide range of colors and you have to go to an auto parts store to get em. Remember to put primer/sealer over bare metal too!

Will you be painting over older paint? If you can take the time, stripping the old paint would be advisable. I've had great results with off the shelf "spraybomb" as long as the surface is good. Of course, complete disassembly of the bike makes life a lot easier too. Think lots of light even coats. Follow the can directions for application times and temperatures. Buy a can of clearcoat to go over the finsihed product a few times - after it has completely dried (ask me how I know this!) That will keep it from getting chipped or scratched as easily.

Preparation should take about 90% of the project time if you want really great results!
Good luck!

I don't know if you are considering using a spray primer before painting. I'd recommend it for two reasons: First, it will help you detect any flaws in your prep job that would spoil the look of new paint. Second, it improves adhesion of the paint.
If you don't spray paint a lot, primer will also help your technique.

Tips:
Spray cans need to have the living daylights shaken out of them before painting. And then again after stopping. And a little bit during as well.

A day with less humidity is better, no wind better still.

When you stop after spraying the first coat, invert the can and spray a short blast. This will spray out just propellant, no paint, thereby clearing the nozzle. When you go for the subsequent coat the can will work properly.

Good masking tape is worth it.

Completely stripping the bike of parts is desireable. Also a good time for maintenance, with everything apart.

Hanging the bike somehow will ease the process.

Painting can be a lot of fun. I love it, although prepping and sanding the frame are a huge PITA.
Best of luck!

Powdercoating is both cheap and kind to little bunnies.

If you dont have experience spray painting I would suggest you avoid spray cans as they are more complicated and require much more skill.

PM if you want any advice.

Ricardo

PS> Dont strip your frame using heat.

Ricardo, are you suggesting that Seaden BRUSH PAINT a bike? If so, I reluctantly disagree. Results will surely be better from a spray can than from a can of paint that must be thinned, mixed, brushed out, wetsanded and compounded. It takes more skill to do all of that than to push a button.

Dooley: Powdercoating isn't cheaper than spraypaint. Also, the paint and the propellant is already in the can, and the only place it can go now is, unfortunately, OUT. Powdercoating is a plastic, a synthetic manufactured material that came from a lab. It doesn't necessarily give little bunnies a break.

powdercoating....won't you need to bake it in a oven big enough?

Anyone have tips about spray painting over chrome, and spray painting over rust?

I'm going to spray paint my bike this weekend. I'm going to use Duplicolor's Wheel Coating paint. The colors are limited to black, white, shades of gray, a bronze color, and a clear coat, but this paint has received rave reviews in automotive forums for its durability and ease of application. It also has the advantage that it doesn't require a primer. I'm going to remove every bit of the old paint from the frame with aircraft stripper and wire brushes and then apply Duplicolor's adhesion promoter for metals before the first layer of paint and give it a few layers of clear on top.

Make sure you use an enamel instead of a lacquer, because enamels are much tougher when fully cured. Most auto body touch up paints are lacquers because they're harder for the average joe to mess up, so make sure the can explicitly says 'enamel' on it. Also, follow the directions on the can to the letter, especially what it says about recoat times. If you apply a layer of enamel and you're not inside the recoat window, you will end up with a weak, wrinkled finish.

Duplicolor's website has tons of good information, and maybe you can get some painting ideas by looking at their various products. You may also be able to get some ideas about paint from reading some of the computer case modders forums - you won't believe the lengths some of those guys go to when painting their cases. A good place to look for tips on painting technique is websites for people painting their RC cars and boats.

Good luck!

The following is quoted from another member of bike forums, in reply to a similar post. I found it so insightful, I emailed it to myself, and now have had to pass it on several times.

"You can get a really nice paint job with rattlecans if you take your time. It won't be as good as a pro job, but good enough that no one will notice without a close inspection.

Contrary to popular belief, the difference between amateur and pro has very little to do with the paint itself. Yes, pros have better paints (most of which are too toxic for home use), but what makes the biggest difference is their prep work!

Painting only takes a few minutes, its the prep that takes time, and determines how your paint job will come out.

First off, unless the original finish is actually peeling or flaking off, don't sand or strip it off! Just clean it well, and sand it lightly with a 220-500 grit sandpaper, and dust it off with a terry cloth, that will roughen up all the surface.

Then, buy yourself a primer, a paint, and a clearcoat. I personally like Duplicolor. I use their basic primer, their basic enamels, and their clear Engine Enamel (its stronger than their regular clear). Read the backs of the cans. Seriously read them. No one does, but it really is important! If its too humid, the paint won't dry right. If you recoat outside the 'recoat window', your paint will bubble and crack. Read and follow the directions, it makes a difference.

Remember that three thin coats are better than one thick coat. Don't worry about getting complete coverage with your first coat. It won't happen, and thats OK. Just spray on a light coat, give it 20 minutes (or whatever is recommended by the can), and lay down another one. If it takes 7 coats to get complete coverage, so be it. I recommend hanging the bike up with a rope through its bottom bracket shell so you can freely rotate the bike around. Bikes don't have a lot of surface area, but they have a lot of weird curves and places for paint to miss.

If you want your paint job to be extra nice, once you are down laying down color, give the frame at least a full 24 hours, preferably a little more, and then wet sand the frame. Use a really high grit paper, like 1600 or up, and put a drop of dish detergent and some water on it, that lubricates things and keeps things more even and smooth. Don't try to remove paint, just smooth it out. Then rinse it clean, and dry it carefully. Then you can move to your clearcoat. If you don't want to wet sand, thats fine, it'll still be good.

I usually lay down at least 3 coats of clear. Make sure your last coat is a 'solid' coat, not too thick, of course, but don't just dust on the last coat, or you can get little flecks on the finish. Let it dry for at least 24 hours.

To finish, I use some automotive polishing compound on a terry cloth pad, and work it around by hand. Rub rub rub, but remember, you aren't trying to remove paint, just smooth it out. Wipe it clean with a clean cloth, and then apply an automotive wax, like Meguirs, or even cheap stuff like Turtle Wax. Buff it well, and enjoy.

If you can stand it, wait a few more days before building up the bike, enamels take a long time to cure, even if the paint seems dry, it will be most likely to chip the first few days.

Anyway, like I said, it takes time, but is worth it. I've painted quite a few frames and other things with this basic method, and it never fails to please."

The Duplicolor adhesion promoter isn't for use on bare metal. I'd use self-etching primer if I were you, even if they they claim that the wheel paint doesn't need primer. In my experience, you always get better adhesion if you use a primer.

Be sure you get the enamel clearcoat rather than the lacquer or you may end up with a wrinkle finish on your wheels.

https://www.nonlintec.com/carlton/

I contacted Duplicolor and asked about primer. The wheel coating paint is designed to be applied on cleaned metal, and a primer is not recommended. Of course, I will scuff the metal with some 400 grit sandpaper before I paint. As for the adhesion promoter, Duplicolor has at least two different products with the same name. One is designed for plastics, the other for metals. I asked Duplicolor about this as well, and their response was "You don't need it, but it won't hurt".

Here's a reference to using wheel coating paint on a PC case: https://www.pocketpcmag.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=13666.

You get your little bunnies powder coated???

Don't?
Hold the button down?

I know the temptation is strong, but you probably wont be happy with the texturized final product. It will draw your eye. Shiny paint will make it worse.

Around here you can tell which bikes are stolen. They have that one-color ghetto respray job on the frame and almost everything attached to it, except the tires.

If you scuff chrome with fine sandpaper or a Scotchbrite pad (like a green pot scrubber, or the gnarly pad they use on polishers to strip floorwax), then primer and paint, adhesion should be pretty good.
I have a pair of cruiser fenders that have chrome that's gotten too rusty to save, and they are going to get the above treatment, then a few coats of white spraypaint and clear.

Clean hand oils etc off the bare metal before primer and paint?

Nothing beats bare naked metal. Ok, I can think of something else, but I'm talking about bikes here.

.....an all girl metal band playing naked?

No way. You got it all wrong. I am suggesting to use a compressor and a spray gun or an airbrush since you can control air pressure and paint quantity with the later. Brush paint is an option only with almost inconspicuous touch ups.

Ricardo

Okay, that makes perfect sense. Even a small, inexpensive airbrush would be more "tuneable" than spraypaint. It would also permit custom mixing.
Thanks for replying, Ricardo.

Anytime man. If you ever need painting advice, PM me. I do airbrush paint jobs too.

Ricardo

I've painted a numer of frames using a compressor and spray gun. If one can borrow a compressor, spray guns can be had for cheap from Harbor Freight and the like.

The quality of finish from automotive body shop paints is far superior to anything from a rattle can. If you can find a friendly body shop, or paint supply shop, that will sell paint in small quanties, this is the way to go.

When using polyurethane paints, what do you use to clean your gun? Reducer is too expensive!

I was just looking at House of Color products online. Black or white polyurethane is $33 a quart, and I can live with that, but the reducer is $48 a gallon.

I can't believe that while transporting my Univega to a bike rally/festival in Mt. Dora, Florida I scratched the hell out of one of the chain stays. What's the best way to deal with this? Thanks