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the nashbar and iro hubs are both good value, and you'll be less likely to commit suicide if your wheels get stolen.

but its the only NJS approved action to take when your wheels get yoinked.

dolface...do you ride either of those hubs? what makes you endorse them?...I've heard good stuff about IRO (sorry to see on the site that Tony's son died).

I'm down to make an investment if I need to tho.

and...for the most part...no one is taking my back wheel. see my chain below...

Be careful with that chain - did you pick it up from a hardware store? How easy did they cut a chunk off for you? That's how easy it'd be for a bike thief (happened to a person I know) - and lately, I've heard that it's easy to pick those padlocks too.

The IRO hubs will do you good. I've build up friends' bikes up with those hubs and they are solid it would seem. The many accolades on this forum will back that up.

i don't ride either of those hubs (i rode a nashbar rear for a while, and it felt very nice), but the reputation of the iro's is excellent.

it just seems like it doesn't make sense to take a track hub (cup and cone) and subject it to new england winters.

i know people do it, and have no problems, but if you're looking for a high-end hub that can take the abuse, i recommend the phils (i have them on one of my bikes).

they're heavy and expensive, but they'll last.

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yes.

OK, so for the chain you could just get a BMX chain, that is easiest, cheapest, and you can get cool colors (I use a gold KMC Z410 chain) it was about $8. For the chainring you will have to make sure you have the same size ring that will fit the crank arms. I don't know how to measure it but an LBS will.

On the rear hub, I also have a peugeot fixie conversion from 1970, I think the rear spacing is around 126mm and the hub is 120mm, so the stays bend in a little bit but it's fine, you could also just put spacers in if it made you nervous.

For future reference on painting. If you strip yourself use a spray on stripper, the ones that are like "aircraft" grade. I would reccomend sandblasting though. Be aware, a first time rattle can job will be pretty bad, I can strip mine off if I dig in really hard with my fingernail... but it looks pretty cool and is easy to touch up.

Now a question for you... Where did you buy the chain in the first place (for the lock) and where did you buy the lock? How much? Is it a CHP grade chain? and did you have to get it cut with a saw? thanks.

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if you get nice wheels, you might be better off getting a mini u-lock (most people here seem to favor the kryptonite or on-guard brands) and using that to luck your rear wheel and frame, and using the chain to lock the front wheel.

i'm pretty sure that most hardcore chain locks _cannot_ be cut with cutters, the fact that yours was makes me think it might not be super-hard, so i'f you're gonna spend ~$500 on a wheelset it's not a bad idea to invest in good locks.

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