Many folks say stuff like "I guess my lock is safe, because it is heavy, and it was expensive". But, there is no need to guess. There are three sources of published tests on bike locks.

- "Cycling Plus" publishes one or two detailed bike lock test articles each year. This month's article rates chain locks and padlocks.


- the UK lock testing program results are on-line at:

www.soldsecure.com/Leisure.htm

- the Holland testing ART Foundation program results are on-line at:

www.stichtingart.nl/sloten_resultaat.asp

The ART Foundation results have a complete list for all locks tested, plus a "search" function that lets you find the results for YOUR lock. A manufacturer generally sends only its BEST locks for testing at the ART Foundation, because the standard to earn a "Four Star" rating is very high.


One surprise in the ART testing was that the Kryptonite NY Noose earned the same high rating as Kryptonite's heavier and more expensive chains. So, folks who want a "top rated" chain lock can use the 4.6 pound NY Noose, spend just $80, and enjoy a level of security similar to that of chain locks weighing twice as much.

So, you want to know if YOUR lock earned a "Four Star" rating from the ART Foundation? Visit the ART website, and find out.

My last lock sucks. Its a cable Kryptonite. Same as one of the 2 locks that was securing my old Trek. The other was my u-lock. I only use it for short times on my beater MTB after washing and stuff when I lock it on the balcony to dry. Never after dark again, thats how I got jacked last time. I was a lucky one though and got my bike back, minus locks, lighting.

well nuts, i'm using the trek lock by kryptonite...looks like i should go out and buy a new one

Can't remember the exact models but one is a Specialized cable rated Sold Secure Bronze and the other is a small OnGuard D rated Sold Secure Silver.

I also park in busy, well lit spots and preferably next to a better bike with worse locks.

Not that busy areas are that much of a deterent. I've seen the footage of a thief spending 20 minutes working on one bike whilst a lot of people just walked on by. The trouble with locking in a busy area is that most people just don't care if someone steals a bike.

Cable locks are not really "locks". A cable is okay for attaching your front wheel to the frame. But, your bike needs a top-rated U-lock or top-rated chain lock.

Location, location, location. I could tie a bike up with a shoelace in front of a coffee shop nearby. Other places, locking it to a rabid pit bull is a better choice. Depends on the location.

Egggggggg-zactly.

I've used a cable lock for six months now. I also leave all my doodads (lights, mini pump, helmet, computer, etc) attached to the bike. Haven't lost a thing. I probably don't even need the cable, honestly... but I felt it might deter the random prankster or whoever who might just MOVE my bike so I can't find it.

I have to cut a U-lock off a bike to day. I will post how long it takes. Using a 4 1/2 angle grinder with a chop blade. My guess is about thirty seconds.

What about bike *racks*. Do people in high bike-crime areas see a lot of mutilated racks? The photo shows one of the most common type around where I live. The metal doesn't seem to be especially hardened (sometimes you see them bent), and looking closely, they appear to ship as a bolt-together kit. So could someone with a socket wrench make quick work of liberating a bike?

It was a cyclepro u-lock, with a 12mm shackle. It took 33 seconds and the blade. kicked out once. So with a fresh blade and no kicks maybe 25 seconds.

On the contrary, a cable lock is indeed a lock. Any control mechanism which requires a physical key to manage is a "lock" by very definition. Definition is not, and never will be, dependant on quality. However, your opinion aside, I do only use it to attach the wheels to the frame. Although I so usually loop it around whatever I'm locking to if there's enough space. Afterall Sold Secure didn't issue a Bronze rating just for laughs.

I also use the Onguard D (Mini because I'm not a fan of trawling unnecessary weight) for the frame. With my MTB I can usually fit the D around my rear wheel, chainstay and regular Sheffield Stand, making it damn awkward to get to and play with.

A lock is a lock. If a determined thief wants your bike, he'll get it. If not for the complete bike, a hacksaw will go through any frame in 30 seconds or less. Don't kid yourself.

Back to location. It's far more important where you lock the bike up.

The correct way to lock a bike is with the lock around the rear wheel. Cut a rear wheel in 30 seconds? Good luck with that. Gotta get through the rim, the inner tube, and the tire. And then, the crook can't ride off on the bike. And, he has destroyed the single most valuable component of the bike. Ever try to pawn a bike that lacks its rear wheel? The next bike stolen by cutting through the wheel may also be the FIRST bike ever stolen in that manner.

Park only at "safe locations"? That might work in "Friendly Village". But, I live in a high crime area in one of the crime capitals of America. I ride to the store, to work, to the movies, to the clubs. My bike is locked up in public places more than 300 days each year, and often at night as well. I lock my bikes in neighborhoods where the police are afraid to patrol alone. And guess what? In twenty-five years of using Kryptonite locks: zero bikes stolen.

The folks at the ART Foundation, Soldsecure, and Cycling Plus have tested locks that have been proven to resist a skilled crook using power tools for ten minutes minimum and (for several) up to an hour or more. There is no rational reason for anyone to still be using "pretend" locks that can be broken by half-witted dopers in thirty seconds.

If I can get a hold of some Krypto links or similar. I will take a stab at defeating them.
We will see what happens, as I am neither an editor nor a doper. Just a former heavy equipment mechanic. Next time I get an abandoned wheel I will cut through it with a cordless sawzall just for grins.

And why did you delete your previous post?

[edit] That question is directed at Alan.

No Alan, that's the correct way for you to lock a bike.

Couple of quick snips with the nice big chain cutters that got stolen from Brixton Police Station last year should do the trick. The three in grab on those are more than enough to get purchase and no sawing required. Who said bike theives actually ride of on every single bike they steal. Police in London have on more than one occasion arrested a gang of bike theives going out to steal en masse with a transit van. They don't care about loosing one or two components of a bike, they'll just do a rebuild with something from another bike. If there is one thing to be said about the infamous Brick Lane bike market (virtually all stolen) is that they know a lot about bikes and are almost professional in making them saleable. Your tactic is no guarantee in these parts, nothing is.

Do you concede that a cable with a sold secure rating is a proper lock?

You really need to read this article https://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

You haven't actually tried this have you? In the real world cutting a wheel (especially with a tire) doesn't work as easily as you seem to think.

Depends on the lock in question. I can get through most cable locks with minimal effort using manual tools. Cables are great as a secondary lock, but as a primary they're SORELY lacking

If someone wants your bike, they'll get it. No security device is fail-safe. If you have to leave it someplace patently unsafe, that's your decision. For the majority of cyclists, a decent cable lock is all that's needed to secure a bike at a coffee shop or grocery store.

While I agree that no lock is fail safe I wouldn't park my commuter (much less my trail rig) at my local grocery store with only a cable lock and I live in a "fairly decent" section of town. I know how fast I can get through a cable, it's why I don't advocate them as a main or only lock

Doesn't really give any additional information from ABHs post there. Certainly sensible but to say that there is a "correct" way to lock a bike is like saying that there is a "correct" colour for a bike.

Odd you should mention that but it's not one of the things that I've done personally. But the London Tonight presenter certainly made it look easy (40ish seconds). Possibly something to do with the scissoring action as opposed to the hacksaw action reference by the venerable Sheldon Brown. She claims she didn't have any training but no doubt she was lying to fulfill some kind of secret evil agenda to make ABH look stupid.

You should let sold secure know about this. It seems they have erroneously rated a cable lock as more effective than a papier mache guard dog.

For the sake of arguement we'll ignore the barrel style keyway which is easily bypassed with a BiC pen.

It's THAT easy.

Thankfully, not the lock that I have.

You would have which model?

Bike locks are like safes: here is no such thing as an uncrackable safe. What reputable safe companies sell in their product, is TIME. A cheapo safe may take a few minutes to crack, while the top job may take several days. Same with bike locks. A Brute or New York is breakable, but it just takes that much longer. (And makes a lot more racket and sparks.)

Exactly. I feel my bikes are worth a lot of racket and sparks. Why should I (or anyone else) make things easy for a crook?