afilado

Recently I acquired a 1978 Schwinn Superior in need of refreshing. One of the changes I wanted to make was getting rid of the common, mundane (to my eye) set of stock Weinmann-made center pull brakes.

I've long coveted the Grand Compe 450 set-up but, in frugality, have missed several Ebay opportunities as their price has steadily risen to gasping heights. The GC 450's artful, industrial, overbuilt design and lovely clean, polished, rounded lines put them in the elite of 70s-80s production center pulls.

While looking for a way to satisfy both these ambitions, fate delivered a lightly used set of Zeus' Super Alfa 71s. Though even more obscure (I've never seen them before) than the GC 450s - and eminently more modest in design and construction - they have a certain brave-underdog character and appearance that is reminiscent of the 450s, making them suitable to my eye and my pocketbook as worthy stand-ins until the real thing comes along.

Enhancing the similarities required a little imagining and a trip to Ace Hardware's nifty fastener shelves for bits. Add two cuts from a 1/8" X 3/4" aluminum bar, some hand shaping, drilling, filing and elbow grease, and the result is........

The "counterfeits" - before and after - shown below.

As is often the case when substitutes are made, unforeseen difficulties arise. When I went to install my new brakes, I discovered their insufficient caliper reach for my 27" wheels. Drop bolt time.

Campy drop bolts are too expensive, rarely available and have only 6 mm drop. I needed 17-18 mm, so, again, it's (re)invention time. After looking into a several DIY solutions others have tried, here below is my variation.

....A summary in pictures. Hope you enjoy. Full rebuilt bike pics to follow.

Two clicks gets big pics.

RobbieTunes

wizard.

mkeller234

That looks really good, those are all just regular hardware store items? I had the same problem with some Shimano Tourney centerpulls that I liked, I settled and used some long-reach weinmann's

afilado

Honestly not a big deal, Mr. Keller. Everything is from Ace Hardware, one of their newer stores with the
killer fastener sections. Better than the big box places, even. And you can buy just one of anything.

Correction: the single serrated lock-washer in my last pic is not from Ace. It is one of the few Campy parts that is worth its high price - $1. Ace has similar items; so do other like places. But, as serrated lock-washers go, Campy is king.

I use the one lock-washer to help hold center on the brakes.

My cost on the whole shebang was under 10 bucks.

mkeller234

Awesome. We have a Do it Best hardware that is similar in style. They even let me take my bike in so I can make sure I get all of the right bits and parts, usually just to hold racks or fenders on.

Thanks for posting this, the other version (sheldon's I think?) looked to rigged up to me.

raverson

Nice work afilado!

I used a similar homebrew drop bolt setup to extend GC sidepulls on an Azuki frame recently. Inspired by Sheldon Browns idea for DIY drop bolts, I used 1/4 inch aluminum bar stock and a nylon bushing from a set of DiaCompe extension levers as a spacer.

pastorbobnlnh 

Great solution! Did you custom fabricate the two drop "arms" on the right of the picture? Or did you find them at ACE as well?

BTW, the paint on your Superior is looking really good! Isn't old Schwinn paint amazing when it comes to a hand rubbed sprucing up!?!

David Newton

Brilliant!
I bet you dug long and hard at ACE to find those 2-hole tabs.
You fabbed those, didn't you?

afilado

The tabs or plates are hacksawed from 1/8" aluminum bar stock (from Ace), hand drilled, then filed to rough shape, sanded, steelwooled and slightly finger polished. I like the slightly crude, used look they have. A personal touch but completely in character with a 30 year old bike.

Thanks, David.

afilado

Hello, Pastor. Yes, the plates are handmade of bar stock from hardware store.

The paint really surprised me. When I get to posting finished pictures you will see that the top tube was badly rusted on the surface, as if from sweat drops over the years. Many crusty worm lines of rust under the paint. Expected nicks and scrapes elsewhere. No dents. On balance, pretty decent except for the top tube

I actually used 0000 steel wool on the top tube to take everything down to a smooth, stable surface. The steel wool hardly fazed the paint, just dulling it somewhat. So, while I was at it I went over the whole bike lightly with the steel wool! When clean, I used rubbing compound, then a med. grade polish, a fine polish, then wax to finish.

I'm gonna ride it with spots of raw, waxed metal showing thru the paint. It looks honest and healthy. I'll just keep it waxed and the rust will stay away. I doubt I'll ever repaint.

In my original post i mentioned that there's a front reflector mount from this bike you might could use. Take a look and let me know; you're welcome to it.

Best,

J

dbakl

Wow! Slick job!

afilado

Raverson, that looks like a bulletproof drop setup. 1/4" plate is heavy duty.

Did you concave-evacuate the two interior plate surfaces so as to hug the brake bridge? Or is there some sort of curved washer/shim there? Also, I presume the nylon spacer is between the plates on the lower bolt? Hard to tell.

As a lower spacer/brace I used stacked stainless flat washers. Perfect fit.

j

dit

Nice job Julian! That is very, very similar to what I would have made but a lot nicer. You did good.

raverson

Yes to both questions. I used a piece of 1/4 inch scrap wood with the bar stock clamped on either side. Using a 1/2 bit, bore down the center. Trimmed the nylon spacer to fit with a safety razor and sand paper.

noglider 

I don't see the nylon spacer in the pictures. What's it made from and how?

raverson

pinofro

sick adapter! do you know if anyone makes this kit? or where i might be able to buy it?

Chris_in_Miami

I think that's the sound of opportunity knocking! For what it's worth, my local hardware store has aluminum tubing in several diameters, that would also work great for the lower spacer.

unworthy1

yes, that's the finishing touch to a brilliant DIY adaptation, I'd recommend the thick-walled aluminum stand-off spacers, they are even satin anodized (won't rust either and you'll save all that weight over the stack of SS washers!)

triplebutted

McGuyver award!

okane

Was unable to see any reference to the question asked earlier in the tread: Did anyone have any problem with he caliper shifting from side to side?

OldsCOOL

Love the ingenuity.

rhm

It's been a while, but remember this thread. I can see how the allen headed pivot bolts introduce a certain resemblance to the near-fabulous GC 450's, but there's more to it:



I'd love to find a set for my Trek 720, but I'm going to settle for Mafac Competitions.