Anybody here know how to paint a bicycle frame? I would like to be able to do this myself. It can't be that hard....probably the same techniques as painting sheet metal on a car.

Do you have to strip off the old paint, though.

I've been contemplating the same thing myself. Here are some links from my bookmark file on the subject:

https://www.atnf.csiro.au/people/Suzy.../painting.html
https://www.thuan.org/bikepaint/
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...frame+painting
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...frame+painting
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/37079-need-paint-help-3.html#post315970
https://www.members.aol.com/biketune/paint.htm
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...frame+painting
https://www.mindspring.com/~d.g1/paint.htm
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...frame+painting
https://www.geocities.com/thespeakerguy/speedster3.html

Let us know how you get on.

Painting a bike is just like painting anything else......It's
all in the prep. Assuming you prep the bike correctly
then you'll need to address getting a hard paint on
the bike that does not take special equipment to
apply.

Going to the hardware store for a can of spray on
Rustolum enamel ain't gonna get it, mate.

Why not? With proper prep it'll go on just as smoothly and nice as any automotive paint that might be used. Put it on relatively thin and do numerous coats. Then do 1 or 2 clear coats over it and call it good. This advice came from my brother in law who paints cars for a living.

I am going to do this with my own bike when it comes time to paint it. Still haven't decided on color.

Obviously not a hard coat, but with proper prep it'll do the job for most folks. As a matter of fact, I am in the middle of primering one of my Mtb frame with a can of Rustoleum spray primer....

I've got a couple of bikes which I've assembled fully after several coats of primer only simply because I cannot decide on the color. In fact, I like that dull, flat primered look....

I stripped my frame with Aircraft Stripper, washed it down at the carwash, prepped the steel frame with these metal prep wipes from Duplicolor, and then shot my base and clearcoats using Duplicolors High Heat Engine Enamel in Chevrolet Orange and clear. Follow the instructions on the stripper can and the enamels to the letter! In doing so you should end up with a very mice DIY-painted frame!

A good auto paint supply store can load aerosol cans with auto paint... choose your color from their sample books. This stuff is pretty durable, and I'd bet someone at the store will be willing to give some advice. Good luck.

Depends how pretty you want it. In the past, I have done a flat black spray paint over the light sanded old finish which turned out pretty decent, and easy to touch up. Keeps the frame from rusting and has a nice utilitarian look to it.

To do it "properly", however isn't cheap. LOTS of prep, and expensive paint. You may need good spraying equipment. I think there are some good paints available in spray cans, but they're usually had from specialty stores for $$$. I found that in the end, a paint job by a professional is probably worth the money. Once in a while you could find a powder coat place that'll bead blast a frame and powder coat it one color for less than $150. And it'll look pretty good, too.

I use Tower Paint to order any color in a spray can.. approx $13 a can.

https://www.towerpaint.com/index2.html and click on "Custom Spray Cans"

My bike was painted with a PPG Yellow (picture), and I ordered one spray can as touchup paint..

Not bad for a spray can.....I'm sure it was prepped well.

I found a place that would do powder coat for about $125....I wish somebody had a picture of a powder coated bike.

I'd sand off the original paint first, and thouroughly wash the entire frame.

Buying decent paint is key, as are many thin coats. I painted an old Schwinn Letour (if anyone remembers it, yes it's the one with the rear axle replacement) bright green with a brush, to save on the prep, three coats and it was themost beautiful thing I"d ever seen. I masked on lines, new decals, etc with masks I designed on computer imaging program, printed on regular computer paper, cut out VERY carefully with a scalpel, lightly brushed with Elmers, and applied. Two light coats of nornal white sprayed, let the whole thing bake dry for a day or two, and hose the bike down...the Elmer's dissolves and the paper masks flake off...the whole thing looks almost professionally done, and I spent about twelve bucks on paint and fifty cents on a brush.

If I'd REALLY wanted to make it special I'd have clearcoatedit, but I unfortunately didn't have time for that...the owner wanted his wheels back I'm gonna buy that bike someday...

I am a professional painter and take my advice for a lasting finish the spray can method doesn't work. Ya it looks good at first, but give it a few miles and then you get a chip here a chip there, you'll be spraying that bike every 1000 miles. The reason? you ask. Good automotive paint is a 3 part mixture. Depending on brands of paint it has a catalyst to harden the paint. Spray cans don't have a catalyst, if they did they would only last a day before using. That catalyst is what makes it durable to the elements. It's a scientific thing. I'm not gonna make this post any longer than need be. Got a good bike? Then pay to have it sprayed by a profesional. Powder coat? No, have it liquid sprayed it's a lot glossier, powder sucks.

The finisher! the end

Done!

Okay I'm into the crafts thing and go to craft shops all the time (Micheal's, Hobby Lobby, etc.) and they have those airbrushes. While small they should be big enough for bike frames and parts without a lot of wasteage of paint (plus you can custom mix paint, add catalysts, etc.). This should work pretty well right?

Another thing I found at the craft shops is this stuff used for leafing (as in gold leaf). It comes in lots of colors and paterns on a mylar backing, and is applied by putting down a light, even coat of adhesive pressing down and peeling off the backing leaving the leafing material behind. This stuff would be great for making custom decals that are bright shiney metal colors (gold, silver, bronze, copper), or metalic colors. I've even seen pearlized, and mother of pearl paterns that would look pretty good. Layered aplications can also create drop shadow effects and pinstriping. Of course if you use this stuff your going to need to clear coat over it, but I think maybe I can make some interesting 3d effects by using alternating decal-clearcoat applications (put down drop shadow layer, apply few layers of clear coat apply top layer, clear coat again).

Any thoughts on my ideas?

Isn't the deciding factor whether the paint is baked on or not? I know the place we used to take our car to be painted every decade or so used to put the car in a low-temp oven and bake it for 48 hours...

Anyway, hotboxing a bike in a sunny area shouldn't be hard, if temperature's the deciding factor.

I was just starting to paint my frame today. Went and got Rust-o-leum primer, paint and stripper.

Be careful with that stripper! Wow. I accidentally had some blow back onto my arm and it started tingling immediately. I freaked out and ran and stuck it under water in the the tub. I said screw it and am going to take it to be sandblasted over the weekend (if I can find a place.)

Yikes.

With the better chemicals of todays era, the baked on finish really isn't needed, only to speed the drying if need be. I said erlier that powder sucks, although liquid coatings are generaly glossier and you also have more color options for lower costs, powder is good if you are mainly concerned about durablity and not bling-bling . Also nolageek I would stay away from sandblasting unless your local sand blaster has a lower pressure machine or has a different media than sand. Sand blasting will usually leave pits in the metal witch are very hard to fill without lots of primer and sanding. Also I said in another post that your old paint is better than primer, just smooth out any scratches and then spot prime only those areas. resand and your good to paint. Remeber light coats are better but don't go to many, better to just go until your color is solid then put a thin coat of clear over that. To thick or to many coats makes the paint esier to chip and harder to touch up.

Nice!!!!!!1 How much did that cost you? Are those decals or painted on?

Has anyone ever "Parkerized" a bike frame? It would be the ultimate post-apocalyptic finish.
https://www.shootersolutions.com/parkerizing.html

Here is an example (sorry I couldn't find a bike):

Haha!!!! I love it!

Actually not such a bad idea....parkerized like a 1911 colt officer's.

Parkerizing is a cool idea! How about the Glock tenifer finish?

If you want a tough paint job -Sand the bike with fairly coarse sandpaper and spray it with Rustoleum Textured Paint. The texture is enough to cover up most of the scratches so it looks pretty good . And it stays on. Unfortunately it only comes in patio furniture ish colors.