Just bought a set of NJ5 Dromo cranks. I assumed they were re-badged andels.
I bought a JIS 110mm bb on the assumption that the same bb for andels would be what was used here. Some google-fu lead me to believe JIS is the right taper.

Just tried installing everything on a new Pake Rum Runner frame and the crank arm spider came in contact with the chainstay.

Dae have experience with these cranks? I can't find a homepage for NJ5 so I'm assuming they went out of business.

It looked like the cranks were bottoming out on the taper - so perhaps they are ISO cranks instead? According to sheldon brown, if they were ISO cranks on a JIS bb they should be spaced out further on the spindle, not close to bottoming out.


Here are the cranks I bought: https://www.bikewagon.com/nj5-dromo-f...crankset-black
Here is the bb: https://www.bikewagon.com/fsa-square-...bottom-bracket
Here are the andel cranks I think that they are: https://www.benscycle.com/p-887-ande...165mm-46t.aspx
Here is the andel bb which has the same dimensions as the fsa one: https://www.retro-gression.com/produc...bottom-bracket

Anybody else have issues with clearance on the Rum Runner?




EDIT: Swapped the cranks and bb to a new frame and had zero issues so the bb on the rum runner must have been off by a few mm.

Did you ask bikewagon what the right bottom bracket is?

¿ porqué ?

Those are in fact re-branded Andel cranks (NJ5 was a "house brand" of a parts distributor from Portland OR named Cyclone Bicycle Supply) and they do require a 110mm JIS spindle.

I've installed quite a few Andels on Rum Runner frames using a 110mm BB and have never had any trouble.

Did you measure to make sure the BB is in fact 110mm? Is the chain ring on the correct side of the spider?

No, I did not ask bikewagon - that's a pretty good idea though. I assumed since it wasn't on their site that they would not know.

The spindle is labeled 110.5mm on the nds.

Yes the chainring is on the outside, but it is the spider that is touching the chainstay anyway.

Glad to hear you've had no troubles scrod.

Perhaps there was an error and the wrong taper bb was shipped?

Just checked the box again and looked up the what was engraved on the bb "RPM BB-7420" and it seems to be JIS.

If you guys have anymore ideas I'm all ears.

Perhaps I just overtightened the crank bolts? Is that easy to do? In my experience, no, but perhaps I've always overtightened and in this case there's been a problem?

When I just set the cranks on the spindle there were several mm of room.

A very good possibility considering most people think gorilla-like strength is necessary when installing bike parts.

Aside from what the spindle says, have you actually measured it?

Measured the spindle today and it's 110.

When I was installing the bb and cranks, if I put equal tension when tightening the crank bolts, the driveside arm was noticeably closer to the stay than the nds. I tightened the ds till there was a mm of clearance with the spider and then tightend the nds till they were close to equidistant.

The mechanic and I agreed that the ds should have needed more force but the nds was fine.

I'm thinking I'll try and find a bb spacer to put between the ds cup and the frame.

Maybe it's just an unlucky combination of tolerance variances going on here.

fooled me. i actually thought you bought some cranks approved by the nihon jitensha shinkokai. quit buying garbage and give the companies that have value your dollar.

NJ5.. c'mon ----------------------------- i've seen it all

The name is terrible, I'm with you there 100% but andel cranks are reportedly great bang/buck.