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i ride omnoms, and sug's 75's in the grand mighty trim that retrogression now sells with the super lap bb and for regular commuting and casual riding like i and probably most all do. that said they are generally indistinguishable.
bear in mind i live in southen calf and weather is always dry and clean, so bb options are more forgiving vs fixies in lets say ny or chicago during winter. |
Originally Posted by GromCake
(Post 17811635)
they both come in silver and black tho.
op. if you insist on sticking with loose ball, I'd go Hatta. cause mirror polish, only a little more expensive than normal sg75, and a little less than super lap sg75. + most dope. but realistically, unless it's a show-bike or a dedicated track bike, I'd recommend the Sugino Prototype BB. It's a sealed cartridge bb designed for the 75's, and it's like $35. Sealed cartridge = less maintenance; less maintenance = longer crank life, because you aren't removing/installing the cranks every six months to clean and repack the bearings, so you aren't blowing out the taper on the cranks. |
wow ive been reading it as prototype for like a year, whoops. haha. uhh yeah op replace my recommendation with scrods i trust his judgment, and have never compared the two personally. all i can say is im happy with my protype, but airing on the side of caution i would go for the tange in the future.
/whydontpostquotesworkonmobile |
:lol:
I had very good luck with several Protype BBs on my own bikes too so I'm not sure what happened on the manufacturing side of things. One of the squares was cut so poorly on one of them I was trying to install on a customer's bike that the crank arm would sit crooked on the spindle when tightened down. At any rate, the OP is obviously looking for fancy over practical. If it were me, I'd use a sealed bearing BB and put the extra money on a better frame. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 17812301)
:lol:
I had very good luck with several Protype BBs on my own bikes too so I'm not sure what happened on the manufacturing side of things. One of the squares was cut so poorly on one of them I was trying to install on a customer's bike that the crank arm would sit crooked on the spindle when tightened down. At any rate, the OP is obviously looking for fancy over practical. If it were me, I'd use a sealed bearing BB and put the extra money on a better frame. |
Are you trying to cut the time it takes to get between stoplights by thousandths of a second? That's all it's going to get you. If you ask me, it makes no sense to put a "pimp" part like that on a street bike because a) it won't make any noticeable difference at all in that environment, and b) no one will ever see it, therefore never know it's there. In fact, you'll probably forget what kind of BB you are running after three months anyway. And c) as mentioned earlier, you're going to wreck the tapers on your crank by servicing the BB constantly.
Sounds like a lose-lose proposition all around except you win out when it comes to ego stroking. |
Just get a Phil Wood BB for the best of both worlds - unseen bling factor and no fuss, ultra-smooth sealed cartridge bearings.
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 17813994)
Just get a Phil Wood BB for the best of both worlds - unseen bling factor and no fuss, ultra-smooth sealed cartridge bearings.
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Originally Posted by veganbikes
(Post 17809460)
Regular square taper 75s. All this external B.S. and random splines is stupid all you need is a good ole' reliable square taper.
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I'd take outboard over sq taper any day.
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I'm the exact opposite.
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I don't have a preference. They're really both fine.
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Originally Posted by samzy
(Post 17814003)
Y'all are really putting the fear of loose bearings into me. Are loose bearings really that bad? :/ it's the one that fits into my budget currently
I just don't see why you wouldn't want to go with the item that is practical and will prolong the use of what you already own. You can go with the loose balls, but you're just paying extra for more inconvenience and less durability with no noticeable increase in performance. You can purchase bling and speed in more noticeable components that will have a greater effect on your ride with no detriments. The only place it makes sense to use a loose ball BB is on a clean velo. Even there you're not likely to notice or be able to measure an increase in performance from a sealed bearing BB. |
Originally Posted by Dannihilator
(Post 17814038)
Weird, haven't had a single issue with the external cranks on my steamroller.
"I haven't slept for ten days, because that would be too long." - Mitch Hedberg I like Scrod would go with square taper over external any day. |
I like tacos.
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People with the fear of unsealed bearings lmao.
You know what has unsealed bearings? 20 year old mountain bikes DUI types commute on and chain up in the rain. You know what those bearings need? A bit of grease, you can buy big tubs for three quid. Good as new. |
Originally Posted by veganbikes
(Post 17817028)
A-ha...that doesn't leave out the possibility of multiple issues ; )
"I haven't slept for ten days, because that would be too long." - Mitch Hedberg I like Scrod would go with square taper over external any day. My 105's are going strong, has a good chainline, been through some nasty stuff. |
Originally Posted by Cute Boy Horse
(Post 17817411)
People with the fear of unsealed bearings lmao.
You know what has unsealed bearings? 20 year old mountain bikes DUI types commute on and chain up in the rain. You know what those bearings need? A bit of grease, you can buy big tubs for three quid. Good as new. |
If you can't unbolt a thing then screw a thing in, screw another thing in then lift the thing off when it gets loose, then unscrew that last thing and grease the things inside, you're probably not at the level where you need to care if it's sealed or not anyway.
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Originally Posted by hairnet
(Post 17817456)
More maintenance, which some are unwilling to do or unable to do. I can and will do it if I have to, but I prefer the BB to be cartridge so I can set it and forget about it.
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Loose balls in the headset, but personally, prefer sealed bb, especially for everyday riding on the street. Way more practical.
Like Scrod mentioned, if yer dying to drop a bunch of money on a part that you can't see, then get the Phil Wood bb. Just make sure you have Phil Wood hubs to match, hehe..... |
Originally Posted by Leukybear
(Post 17824272)
LBS's have gotten into the habit of severely upcharging customers who need a repack $35+ per wheel/ BB.
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Ever bought milk in a "convenience store"? Convenience ain't cheap. If yer not competent enough to repack bearings, don't have the time, etc etc, then 35 bucks(someone mentioned) to have a shop do yer bb, and both wheels is totally worth it, as long as the shop is a good shop.
Back in my tattooing days, i used to hate someone coming in to the shop, to ask me for a "quote", and then tell me that Joe Hepatitis over at Diseases R Us Tattoo Shop "said he would do it for $50 less". So why the **** are you bothering ME? If yer gonna wanna learn to repack a bb, so that you can do it, whenever it needs it, cool, do it. But maybe keep a spare sealed one in yer toolbox. Can't hurt. |
alot of people have strong negative feelings about gxp bb's. for most if not all street riding applications they are more than fine. and if not f@ck it, get a phil wood bb from scrods shop for a buck sixty
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 17824761)
And customers have gotten into the habit of not wanting to pay bike mechanics for time spent working on their bikes.
If it were up to the average customer the LBS would burn to the ground with all the employees inside and whatever person owns Bikes Direct and Jeff Bezos from Amazon will become gods. If doing this stuff were easy and quick and didn't require any parts or grease or lubes or rags or cleaners or lights or tools or anything like that, then everyone would be able to do it and the LBS wouldn't need to exist but we exist for those folks who can't always do the work themselves or don't have the money for all the tools and whatnot or respect the experience many mechanics have. Why shouldn't bike mechanics be able to live and make enough money so they aren't just scraping by? Why is working as a bike mechanic look so down upon even though we keep a lot of people moving who might otherwise not be moving? Why do we respect some jackass in a suit and tie who has a plush office he doesn't deserve and gets paid a ridiculous amount to do very little but someone with which many people couldn't live without is "upcharging customers, ripping them off, breaking their bikes (usually it is people who ride a lot and are hard on their parts and blame us for their wear and tear)"? Respect people who do work for you or do the work yourself! |
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