Hi, I'm looking at converting my 2013 Trek Super Fly AL into a single speed.
Can I get some advice, as I want to do it right the first time and not have to fix or upgrade it for a long time.

If you could give me some advice and explain the reasons that would be great.

1) What tooth ratio would be best front and back woud be ideal?

2) Which chain tensioner in your opinion is best?

3) Is there a specific SS MTB crankset out there, how much $$ are they?

4) Do I just use a standard chain, or do I need a different one?

5) Are there any other things I need to be aware of / need that I haven't asked about?




The specs of the bike are as follows:


Frame
Alpha Platinum Aluminum, butted & hydroformed tubing, E2 tapered head tube, press-fit bottom bracket, G2 Geometry
Sizes
15.5, 17.5, 19, 21, 23"
Wheels

Wheels
Bontrager sealed cartridge bearing, 15mm alloy axle front hub; Bontrager sealed cartridge bearing, alloy axle rear hub w/Bontrager Mustang 28-hole Tubeless Ready disc rims
Tyres
Bontrager 29-1 Expert, 29x2.20"
Drivetrain

Shifters
Shimano Deore, 10 speed
Front derailleur
Shimano Deore
Rear derailleur
Shimano Deore XT Shadow
Crank
Shimano M552, 42/32/24
Cassette
Shimano HG62 11-36, 10 speed
Components

Saddle
Bontrager Evoke 2, chromoly rails
Seatpost
Bontrager Rhythm Elite, 27.2mm, zero offset
Handlebar
Bontrager Race Lite Low Riser, 31.8mm, 5mm rise, 9 degree sweep
Stem
Bontrager Race Lite, 31.8mm, 7 degree
Headset
FSA NO.57, E2, sealed bearings
Brakeset
Shimano M596 hydraulic disc brakes






Thank you in advance.


Cheers,

Fred

Gearing choice depends on whether you plan to ride it on the trails or on pavement.

If you are indeed a_poor_musicin and on a restricted budget - just shop around for a conversion kit and keep your current crank leaving whichever ring on it works best for you.

If you mean to keep it as a mountain bike (or not ) - you are better off asking here...

Singlespeed - Mtbr.com

Hi, thanks for that.

I plan to keep riding the trails, as my road bike is for roads

While I do want to keep it to a budget, I also want it done right, as it is a nice bike.

Cheers

Fred

1) if youre gonna be riding trails, consider a 2:1 ratio of teeth and go up or down from there (my 29+ is 32:18)
-try shifting into one gear combination and keeping it there for a whole ride and see what you like before buying parts

2) i dont know the best since i have no frame of reference, but you can technically use your RD as a chain tensioner

3) you wont need a new crank, just take off all the rings and get a set of single ring chainring bolts, then use only the middle position with whatever chainring you want

4) you wont need a different chain but you should put a new chain on anyway. fwiw a 9sp or ss chain can take more abuse and clear more mud and gunk

mtbr is indeed an excellent forum of which i am also a member, mtb forum here isnt very active

Cheers, very helpful. I've just asked there too.

hey welcome to the club. some opinions from experience.

2) 3 options:
• Paul Components. bullet proof they say. cons: expensive
• half-link chain. has a quite high success ratio. i prepared for this, but miraculously the chain length was just perfect ending up no need of tensioner device. cons: no alt if doesn't work.
• tweak an old derailleur. easiest and slicky way if you don't mind cons: no look simple as a SS should be.

3) yes there're some MTB-minded cranksets: White Industries, Raceface etc. cons: expensive
bullet proof solution that most ppl go is those Shimano MTB cranksets, Deore models.
however, if you are not planning to go back to triple MTB setup, what crankset becomes irrelevant the moment you convert it to SS. a crankset suits your aspected gear ratio will do the job—as long as QF works, MTB cranksets tend to have greater QF for having Triple gears front + wider/greater angled chainstays clearance.

4) it actually depends on what chainring and freewheel choice.

good luck. it's fun.

Eno disc hub.

Welcome to the club. There will be lots of grunting and cursing to come, but always much satisfaction.

Check my MTB/SS out in the Beach Cruiser thread. All the details without a re-write...Under heading Lightweight Cruisers.

track slack with those vertical drop outs, considered a tensioner?

No vertical dropouts. I recut them in a diagonal shape. Stretched the chain and had to pull a link. I prefer a small amount of slack chain rather than a super tight one. As long as it doesn't skip or slap around. Never liked a tensioner. The way to go is an Eccentric Bottom Bracket. Just wasn't that advanced yet. I have since purchased a 2009 Cannondale Caffeine factory SS with an upgraded EEB. So now my chain looks a little tighter for your enjoyment. By the way, totally different muscles used when riding each bike. Switching brings me back to a whole new level of "worn out" after a ride.

I converted mine sing this kit from Performance:
https://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1031512_-1___000000

I removed the inner and outer chain rings and used the middle one.
I got the new chain ring bolts on ebay.
Used the original chain.