Who else rides a smaller frame size than normal?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Philadelphia
Bikes: Fixed Gear
Who else rides a smaller frame size than normal?
I am a small dude all around, 5'5-5'6ish, everyone has told me I should ride a 52cm through all my years of riding, bike shops, sizing charts, friends etc but I have always found a 48 or 50cm way easier to control and just better overall movement and speed. Who else rides a smaller size than what the charts and sizing says they should?
#2
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: PHL
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
Never really been a fan of smaller frames. I'm a hair over 6'1 and both my bikes have 56cm top tubes, pretty much in line with fit calc recommendations. I used to go larger, around 58 or so.
#3
canis lupus familiaris
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,254
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From: North Carolina
Bikes: En plus one
I ride a 59cm or a 60cm which according to a fit calculator is a bit big for me. I find them more comfortable since I am not racing and don't want an aggressive position.
Racers tend to prefer smaller frames alleging they can be lighter stiffer and more maneuverable.
Racers tend to prefer smaller frames alleging they can be lighter stiffer and more maneuverable.
#4
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Philadelphia
Bikes: Surly CreamRoller. 98 Giant Rincon. SE UVT
I'm around 5'8ish and I've always rode a 53/54cm. On my Surly I felt like the top tube was a little long so I just bought a smaller stem. I would keep it at 50cm at the smallest if I were you, you could always just add a longer stem and raise your seatpost. If you're comfortable on a frame a little smaller go for it, some frames run smaller than others so just make sure you ride before you buy. If you've never rode a 52cm for an extended period of time I would try that out though, you might end up liking it better. I did ride a smaller bike for a few weeks probably around a 50cm but I was way too cramped, put a lot of stress on my wrists.
#8
:)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,420
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From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD12, Specialized Rockhopper, Norco Fluid FS1
I'm 5'8", and I ride a 50cm evo and a 49cm steamroller. 130mm stems are my jam. Properly undersized with #slamthatstem going on
#9
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Seattlish
Bikes: SWorks Stumpy, Haibike Xduro RX, Crave SS
Most of my bikes are, when compared to normal fit thoughts, one size smaller. I have a broken and fused neck, so going one size smaller can reduce stress on my neck when combined with the right stem. If you have a reason for it that has some logic, and it works for you, go for it.
#10
#11
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Joined: Oct 2012
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Where is that guy who always posted the Competitive Cyclist bike fit calculator...when you need him?
#12
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Seattlish
Bikes: SWorks Stumpy, Haibike Xduro RX, Crave SS
#13
Veteran Racer


Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 82 wheels
Sounds like a Marco Rubio joke to me.
#14
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Seattlish
Bikes: SWorks Stumpy, Haibike Xduro RX, Crave SS
#15
Buddy
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Toronto
Bikes: 80s Gardin. Green fixed-gear. POS mountain bike.
#18
Veteran Racer


Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 82 wheels
Can we now call you LittleTenSpeedV2 ?
#19
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,948
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From: PHL
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
#20
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 2
From: Arlington, TX
Bikes: 2008 Surly Cross Check, 2010 Fuji Track Comp
ITT I learned that I must be riding undersized frames. I'm 5'8" or so, my Cross Check is a 52 (CtC), My Fuji Track Comp is a "52" (CtT - about 50 CtC) and my BMC is a "51" - they have an effective TT of about 540mm. They all feel pretty good to me, though I had to put an 80mm stem on the Surly for it to be comfortable. I never really considered how I look vs the size of my bike, I just want my body to be happy when I'm on it.
#21
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From my understanding, top tube length is really what most people go by when they talk about frame size.
Seat tube measurements don't really mean much especially with sloping top tube frames that are common on modern road bikes.
Personally my road bike is a 56 and fixed gear is a 55 with track geo and it feels a lot smaller but also more manageable for urban riding. Also risers on the fixed gear vs regular road bars on road bike add to that.
Smaller causes me issues as does larger. Too upright and you put too much pressure on your wrists and too stretched out can tweak your neck. Generally, if you are younger you can kinda ignore but as you get older the aches and pains add up.
I've heard people say that if the bike doesn't fit you with a standard 100mm stem, it's probably not the right size. So if you find yourself going extra short or extra long, you probably should be on a different frame. I've found this to be mostly true.
Seat tube measurements don't really mean much especially with sloping top tube frames that are common on modern road bikes.
Personally my road bike is a 56 and fixed gear is a 55 with track geo and it feels a lot smaller but also more manageable for urban riding. Also risers on the fixed gear vs regular road bars on road bike add to that.
Smaller causes me issues as does larger. Too upright and you put too much pressure on your wrists and too stretched out can tweak your neck. Generally, if you are younger you can kinda ignore but as you get older the aches and pains add up.
I've heard people say that if the bike doesn't fit you with a standard 100mm stem, it's probably not the right size. So if you find yourself going extra short or extra long, you probably should be on a different frame. I've found this to be mostly true.
#23
:)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 3
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD12, Specialized Rockhopper, Norco Fluid FS1
Where is that guy who always posted the Competitive Cyclist bike fit calculator...when you need him?
#24
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 396
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From: Oceanside, CA
Bikes: 2017 Lynskey Sportive Disc, 2021 Lynskey Pro29, 1977 Schwinn Super LeTour 12.2
Apparently, I do. I finally did a PBH measurement, and it was a whopping 31.7" or 31.75" (80.5 or 80.6 cm) to go with my 30" inseam — I have super-short legs for my (5'9 and a half ") height. According to the Rivendell chart, I should be riding a 55cm frame (with 700s). According the the eBicycles site, I should be riding a 54 (with a range of 53 to 56), but I have a 53cm Rivendell that seems like about the max I can handle with 28mm 700s, and ditto for a 53cm 1980s Peugeot with 26" 1.5s.
The concept of a larger frame seems great, since I'm long in the torso and could use the room. I just can't seem to throw a leg across anything much over 53.
Rivendell chart here:
The concept of a larger frame seems great, since I'm long in the torso and could use the room. I just can't seem to throw a leg across anything much over 53.
Rivendell chart here:
#25
I prefer frames with a 550ish toptube, my new steamroller has a 565 TT and I just ran a shorter stem on it, fits me fine but it's definitely not gonna be a race bike. So count me in on riding a smaller frame size by choice.




