tig weld everything because it's magic and won't cost more than a 6 pack of PBR

Awesome, thanks. I had no idea you could just purchase a steering tube. That will work perfect.

Now all you need to do is glue it on!

Your sleeve should be fine.

DON'T EPOXY & WELD. You'll make a mess.

Either Sleeve + point weld in the crack (should be plenty strong if done well)
Or Sleeve + Braze (for wicking action).

Make sure you leave enough space for your handlebar stem.

You may do best by making sure the crown race is installed BEFORE welding.

so aside from the tire clearance wont a 1" big block fork suffice?

The tire clearance is pretty much the only thing he's after.

Let's see these creases on the back of the fork legs.
Often times, such damage once addressed is only cosmetic.

I'll post pics tomorrow. The front of the blades have a crease. The rear area (Behind the crease) actually have a small split in the fork blade...most likely the fork was an inexpensive steel and it split at the vertical seam.

A friend (bike shop mechanic) looked at it tonight and it seems to think someone tried to heat the blades to bend the blades/change the rake....and it didn't use enough heat/crimped the blades. We found tell tale bench vise marks on the steerer blade under the grease.

Guilty as charged. :)
My original fork has very small clearances so it would be nice to keep the same angles/level top tube.

If you were the owner of the company I work for you would have already pulled out the hot glue gun and been out riding! Stop wasting time listening to these fools and get yourself some hot glue and stack tubes on top of tubes all day long. As long as you don't touch or ride the bike, it should be super safe!

Wait - so the fork in question has damage to the fork blades/improper cold forming *and* the steerer is too short? Make it into a TP holder and buy a new fork.

Um, no. Current fork with correct steerer tube and short axle to crown length has damaged fork blades. The whole point of the OP's post is replacing the damaged fork.

OP can't find a used fork with short axle to crown length and long steerer tube but can find a used fork with short axle to crown length and short steerer tube.

Solution: Buy used fork with short axle to crown length, take current fork and new used fork to a good brazer and have him swap the steerer tube. Repaint fork. Done.

:thumb:

got it.

So now you can get yourself a steerer for cheap (plus shipping I'm assuming). Now you have to find a a cheap fork (plus shipping as well I guess). Then you have to find a framebuilder who is willing to to take the time out of their queue to prep the fork for re-heat, remove the old steerer, and install the new one (you might have to ship this stuff out to them as well if you cannot find someone local). it's not as simple as it sounds. A fork crown is cast and has lots of metal to sink heat into. It will take someone with lots of experience to sweat that steerer out properly without ruining the fork. What do you figure your end cost is going to be on this project and how long do you think it's going to take?

My advice to you is to maybe prioritize your aesthetics a little less and go with something more practical. Or be prepared to pay to maintain the cool factor.

I feel for you in this dilemma. Purchasing a fork online can be difficult, I'm going through the same thing trying to find a threaded fork for my Bianchi which matches or comes close to my current trail.

And as you stated in your other related post, people seem to measure axle to crown and rake and other measurements differently, or refuse to measure at all. I had one guy on eBay come up with some crazy figures and after three emails I gave up. Pictures with a measuring tape don't always work either.

Try to find a lbs with a gazillion forks, that's what I'm doing, but so far no love

Okay lemmie see if I have this right:

1) you need a new fork
2) you've made this difficult for yourself by deciding it has to be NJS
3) you want to get a non-fitting NJS fork, then modify it, which will mean it isn't NJS anymore

Common sense says just get a normal fork.

That would be way too easy.

Yup! Less hassle, quicker turnaround (at least you can paint it yourself, or have it locally done right away), and probably cheaper too when all is said and done.