I noticed a crease in the back of my fork blades and it looks like it took a hit/badly repaired. So I need a new fork.

I'll probably just pick up a used NJS fork since they're so inexpensive. The problem is my bike has a taller head tube and will need a threaded fork with a 195-200mm steering tube...almost all used NJS forks came off smaller frames with steerers in the 125-175mm range.

Now trying to find a good lugged track fork with a low rake and tight clearances (so you don't have a large gap above the tire) is next to impossible. Closest thing I've found is Waterford...and they want $425 for a fork.

Anyone just lengthen a threaded steering tube?

2 methods.

#1
-Cut the threaded section off my existing fork and weld that onto the new fork's steerer. Most likely cut the new fork below the threads so the two pipes can be welded together at a non-threaded section.

For added strength, take a small 4" pipe with an outside diameter of around .850 (same as a 1" steerer tube's inside diameter). Smear some JB weld on the small pipe, insert it into the steerer tube, JB weld the exposed section, then slide the additional threaded piece over that. OF course the joint will be still be regular welded as normal. Figure inner tube will give added strength. Overkill?


#2
-My friend is absolutely convinced this can easily be done with JB weld and I'm overthinking this. Do everything the same as #1 (but using a longer inner sleeve) and just the do the full sleeve/joint using JB Weld. He thinks using a longer inner sleeve that's a tight fit will give the JB Weld a huge surface area for a strong bond. Plus the joint itself will have more JB Weld.
He's convinced because JB Weld has fixed holes in engine blocks....I'm not so convinced because the exterior of an engine block is different than a stressed joint.

#2 would be awesome because it would save me a bunch of time and not have to take it to a welder...but it makes me nervous. #1 seems more common sense.

That sounds like common sense to you?

Yeah. For some reason the numbers are a lighter shade but yeah, #1 seems more common sense/practical.

Rather than just getting a fork with more steer tube?

Huh...Did you actually read the post?

Be my guest. Find me simple steel curved blade track fork with...
-200mm threaded steerer tube
-a low track rake (30-35)
-lugged crown
-and most importantly, tight clearances with a 21-23mm tire like any typical Italian or NJS steel track bike.

I don't even care if it's neon green since the bike is being powder coated anyway.


That's it. You would assume this would be so simple since almost every used Italian or Japanese track bike has this exact fork....but it's next to impossible. I've even tried custom frame shops and most refuse to sell forks unless buying a frameset.

Closest thing I've found...

Waterford....and they want $425
Track Fork Crown

Ebay? It's nothing but so called "track forks" with room to fit 32mm+ tires.

When you do finally find one labeled "This is a true track fork with only a few mm between the crown and a track tire,"
it's $300+
Example..
Track Fork Columbus Campagnolo Cinelli Crown Vintage Pista Bike 202mm Thread | eBay


A fork like any of these...

And my option....


I can choose any fork off this page for $75-100 and just have the steerer extended

https://www.njs-export.com/collections/forks


Like I said, I don't care about the color since I'm having the frame/fork powdercoated.

Tape a soda can to the top of the steerer

Anyone who says to use JB Weld on a steerer like that shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a bike.

Bite the bullet and buy the right equipment.

Tried it, doesn't work. The aluminum is too thin to be tapped for threads. I've only got it to work with a threadless system, as long as the star nut is in the steel part of the steerer, as it will punch through the sides of the aluminum extension.

Try beer cans they're thicker

#1 could be done. It would be a hassle to get it right, but it could be done. That said, I'd never do it or use it.

#2 Never take advice from that friend on any serious matter.

Your friend should lay off the crystal meth.

its your funeral.

The steerer is just inserted and brazed into the crown. Any framebuilder can swap out a short steerer for a longer one. Or maybe even build you a fork. A local builder brazed a 30mm rake fork for my 62cm 3rensho for under $300. Longest threaded steerer ever.

Don't hack up a fork that will result in something both unsafe and of no value to anyone else.

Another thing to look at - there are still new road forks for sale with maybe 40mm rake and super long 1" threadless steerers. They're the most affordable option for folks with giant frame that originally used 1" threaded forks. Try Soma.

It is April fools today

Get some rubber cement and super glue, mix them together. Take a 1" PVC pipe and use the mix and glue it to the top of your fork. Wait for it to dry then take it to your lbs and have it threaded. I've been riding an '85 Paramount like this for the past 25 years with no problems.

^+1
My '39 Paramount came from the factory like that.

I know you think you're being funny but what was exactly wrong with my advice in the other thread? I explained it was simply using the skin of the can as a shim (under the bar tape) and then wrapping the bar tape over it. All it was is slightly wider diameter for the brake lever clamp since it's clamping on top of the tape.

Initially I thought his brake lever clamp was too large for the bars and he just needed a wider diameter to clamp to.

This is what I was talking about...I made this last night.

Guess I don't find this so crazy but I'll rethink it.

When I refer to "epoxy" just for the insert, I'm referring to JB Weld or 2 part metal epoxy.

EDIT: Brainfart. I meant .850 insert.

Yeah we all know you mean JB weld, which is why everyone is like "**** that".

Your headset preload is going to be held by that joint. It'll fail eventually, as JB weld does.

I understand that a 2 part metal epoxy would fail over time....but I'm talking about an actual TIG weld on the joint.
The insert would be getting the epoxy, nothing else.

I figure a quality TIG weld would be strong/last.

If this is serious, then the proper way to go about it is to heat up the fork crown and remove the existing steertube. Buy a new steertube from any of the numerous sources and braze in a new one that is the correct length. This should be done by a frame builder or someone with both the proper tooling and brazing experiance. Forks are not where to take short cuts unless you are really wanting to spend some quality time with your dentist.

Here is a new steertube. It's $10. 1" FORK STEER 240mm :: TUBES STEEL :: Nova Cycles Supply Inc.

It's just a janky solution to something that can be done proper, even with 3 letter welding.

If you're going to have something actually welded, just have a frame builder swap the steerer tubes

This.

As long as we stay away from a bike shop...