Mid/upper-level parts on bottom-level frame?
#1
Thread Starter
Warehouse Monkey


Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Lebanon Co., Pennsylvania
Mid/upper-level parts on bottom-level frame?
Has anyone ever upgraded parts on a cheaper bike, only to later buy a really nice frame and swap the parts over? I had grand plans to build a mid-level SS/FG this year but the project will have to wait. Instead, I think I may upgrade my wheels and drive train and perhaps over the winter buy a better frame and swap the parts over.
Granted, my Kilo has served me well (and continues to do so) but I have the itch for something lighter, possibly aluminum.
Thanks in advance for the helpful replies!
Granted, my Kilo has served me well (and continues to do so) but I have the itch for something lighter, possibly aluminum.
Thanks in advance for the helpful replies!
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#2
Veteran Racer


Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 80 wheels
Yes, several times. Visp > Dolan Pre Cursa. Motobecane Messenger > Leader Cretin. Basically, as long as the parts will fit on the new frame, then it's worth it. Remember that your Kilo TT has a 26.8mm seatpost, so don't spend any money upgrading it, b/c you won't be able to use it on the new frame. Ditto on the stem.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: LA not L.A.
Bikes: Are awesome!
I've got a Kilo frame I built up with mostly mid, some upper level parts. I bought just the frame/fork and built it like I wanted. I don't really plan on buying a new frame anytime soon. A lighter wheelset might be in it's future though, and I'm going to need a new chain soon.
#4
Banned.
Joined: Apr 2015
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I'd much rather ride a bike with a crap frame ( though kilo is far from crap ) and good wheels/crank than a nice frame with bottom shelf wheels and cranks.
I 'upgraded' to an alum/carbon bike, to find it was worse than my old bike, took a few hundred bucks of upgrading the crap parts to get it to ride nice.
I 'upgraded' to an alum/carbon bike, to find it was worse than my old bike, took a few hundred bucks of upgrading the crap parts to get it to ride nice.
#6
Clark W. Griswold




Joined: Mar 2014
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Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Pound Sign: Kilo TT
But yeah people put nice parts on lower end stuff and sometimes put lower end stuff on nicer bikes. Build up what works for you, upgrade when you can and don't upgrade if you don't need to.
Heck if you look at Chris King's personal bike (or at least the one he just brought to Japan) he is running lower end Campy stuff (granted it is still Campy) on a handbuilt frame with Reynolds 953 and Columbus SL tubing. The bike is still balleur as fuxckx but has an odd bit of part that you might not expect on such a high end bike from one of the most ubiquitous high end cycling parts maker
But yeah people put nice parts on lower end stuff and sometimes put lower end stuff on nicer bikes. Build up what works for you, upgrade when you can and don't upgrade if you don't need to.
Heck if you look at Chris King's personal bike (or at least the one he just brought to Japan) he is running lower end Campy stuff (granted it is still Campy) on a handbuilt frame with Reynolds 953 and Columbus SL tubing. The bike is still balleur as fuxckx but has an odd bit of part that you might not expect on such a high end bike from one of the most ubiquitous high end cycling parts maker
Last edited by veganbikes; 06-07-16 at 04:20 PM.
#7
THE STUFFED


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#8
~>~
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: TX Hill Country
That being said budgeting for a properly fitted machine suitable for long term use with quality components is inevitable if one stays with the sport.
Incrementalism is generally not cost effective in cycling, replace what wears out: the point being riding enough to actually wear it out........

Now having saved and put in enough miles to actually know what one requires: Spend $$$$ and have at it for a few decades of FG use.
PS: You will need a winter/wet/commuter bike at some point, you may be riding it now. Fix what wears out and keep it in service w/o expensive doo-dads.
-Bandera
Last edited by Bandera; 06-07-16 at 06:17 PM.
#9
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Joined: Jan 2014
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Yes, several times. Visp > Dolan Pre Cursa. Motobecane Messenger > Leader Cretin. Basically, as long as the parts will fit on the new frame, then it's worth it. Remember that your Kilo TT has a 26.8mm seatpost, so don't spend any money upgrading it, b/c you won't be able to use it on the new frame. Ditto on the stem.
#11
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Vermont
Bikes: Tanglefoot Hardtack, Riv Sam Hillborne, a Purple Waterford
I see nothing wrong with putting high end components temporarily on a low-mid range frame in preparation of a higher end frame, Especially when the starting frame is a Kilo TT. Frame dates women way out of its league.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Seattlish
Bikes: SWorks Stumpy, Haibike Xduro RX, Crave SS
Part of bicycling for many is playing with the bikes. Two of my bikes are mid level frames with great parts. It just happened over time. As long as you ride it, go crazy with mods that make you happy for whatever reason you want, it is your bike. The only "bad" bikes are the ones that do not get ridden.
#13
About the only upgrade you can do to a seatpost imo, is going from a one bolt to two bolt post. Who cares about the weight of the thing.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 334
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As far a parts in general, geometry aside, all but the most experienced of riders will not be able to tell the difference between a cheap and expensive frame. A cheap frame with nice wheels and drive train will ride much better than a nicer frame with lower quality wheels/drive train.
Last edited by Flatulentfox; 06-08-16 at 10:29 AM.
#15
Clark W. Griswold




Joined: Mar 2014
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From: ,location, location
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Going from a one bolt to a two bolt is a big upgrade as is a setback post and sometimes materials can make a difference. However yes in the most simple of terms it is mostly a pipe (though the saddle clamps are moveable).
#17
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From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
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#18
#19
Thread Starter
Warehouse Monkey


Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Lebanon Co., Pennsylvania
#20
Thread Starter
Warehouse Monkey


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From: Lebanon Co., Pennsylvania
#23
THE STUFFED


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