Fresh Garbage
Quote:
battery headlight mounting fitting..
the light you never see again, there, when you forget to take it off when you go into the Pub.
Originally Posted by fietsbob
the boss on the left fork blade suggests a older British made fork .. that is a mount for an old schoolbattery headlight mounting fitting..
the light you never see again, there, when you forget to take it off when you go into the Pub.
I had an attachment to mount my light by the mid-fork braze-on. The light went back to the handle bar after a week.Quote:

Chances are, whoever painted that frame, worked in the auto-body/ restoration business.
Makes sense. The lack of braze-ons such as cable guides and bottle mounts is normal for 70s and some early 80s frames. I tired to ID the dropouts because the little hole protruding into the triangle is unusual. No luck though, maybe CV and get it.Originally Posted by Leukybear
Another plausible scenario 
Chances are, whoever painted that frame, worked in the auto-body/ restoration business.
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Why do you say stamped? They look like any other forged dropouts brazed into the stays. I can even make out the threaded holes for adjuster screws, usually seen on good quality bikes.Originally Posted by Scottybigs
and stamped dropouts (I'm sorry but the welds on those pancake dropouts do not indicate quality).
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Why do you say stamped? They look like any other forged dropouts brazed into the stays. I can even make out the threaded holes for adjuster screws, usually seen on good quality bikes.
Good eye, didn't see the adjuster screw threads at first. So, if they're forged dropouts without a derailleur hanger, then the frame is either a unique 1970's fillet brazed steel frame, or something more modern with a pretty ambiguous intended function (I'm still thinking coaster brake or other internal gear hub).Originally Posted by hairnet
Why do you say stamped? They look like any other forged dropouts brazed into the stays. I can even make out the threaded holes for adjuster screws, usually seen on good quality bikes.
Looks like the rear spacing is oddly about 105mm. It doesn't appear bent. Even if the dropouts were bent...15mm bent?
...that's a lot to spread to get to 120mm. What the heck is this thing??
Try posting in C&V, and maybe target T-Mar or Randyjawa.
Try posting in C&V, and maybe target T-Mar or Randyjawa.
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jicafold
Looks like the rear spacing is oddly about 105mm. It doesn't appear bent. Even if the dropouts were bent...15mm bent?
Are there scratches circling the NDS chain stay approximately 4 inches forward of where the axle would be? No brake bridge and 105mm spacing, these point to a coaster brake bike. The scratches would be evidence of a reaction arm being clamped there.
I would think a coaster brake bike would have low quality stamped dropouts.
Thank you. I posted the link on C & V. All this said though, I'm thinking of a repaint, making it a fixie, and selling.
Thank you. I posted the link on C & V. All this said though, I'm thinking of a repaint, making it a fixie, and selling.
TejanoTrackie
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IDK. Maybe you know something that I don't, but I've never seen a coaster brake hub with an OLD anywhere close to 105mm. All of mine have been 120mm, and the smallest I could find on the interwebz is 116mm. Maybe it's an old njs keirin frame with a 110mm fixedgear wheel spacing (not serious).Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
Are there scratches circling the NDS chain stay approximately 4 inches forward of where the axle would be? No brake bridge and 105mm spacing, these point to a coaster brake bike. The scratches would be evidence of a reaction arm being clamped there.
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
IDK. Maybe you know something that I don't, but I've never seen a coaster brake hub with an OLD anywhere close to 105mm. All of mine have been 120mm, and the smallest I could find on the interwebz is 116mm. Maybe it's an old njs keirin frame with a 110mm fixedgear wheel spacing (not serious).
Were yours older models? What brand? I ask because all the modern Shimanos (CB-E110) and KTs and SAs are 110mm OLD. IIRC even my old Bendix hubs and Stingrays were 110. The frame being off at 105 would not be uncommon for a low budget coaster bike. All the cheapo bikes that I have owned have had spacing that's been off a few mms one way or the other.
Sheldon says...
Quote:
Coaster brakes are usually quite narrow, fit in 110-114 mm spacing, though they can be fitted to frames with wider spacing by adding washers along the axle.
Coaster brakes are usually quite narrow, fit in 110-114 mm spacing, though they can be fitted to frames with wider spacing by adding washers along the axle.
Quote:
You'd be hardpressed to get a paintjob as nice as the one that's on there already.Originally Posted by Jicafold
I'm thinking of a repaint
You'll fetch better offers with the paint that's already on there vs what I'm going to assume is spraypaint. The paint on that frame definitely has character.
Try applying car wax and buffing.
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Sheldon says...
Well, honestly, I never measured the spacing on my older coaster brake bikes like my Koss Cruiser, so I can't say for sure that they were not 110mm. The only coaster brake bike in my current stable is a SE Draft Coaster with a Shimano hub, and it measures about 115mm, although the reaction arm is stamped CB-E110, which suggests that the hub might be available with 110mm spacing. So, I will defer to your coaster brake expertise.Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
Were yours older models? What brand? I ask because all the modern Shimanos (CB-E110) and KTs and SAs are 110mm OLD. IIRC even my old Bendix hubs and Stingrays were 110. The frame being off at 105 would not be uncommon for a low budget coaster bike. All the cheapo bikes that I have owned have had spacing that's been off a few mms one way or the other.Sheldon says...
Banned
My antique Campagnolo catalog has data for the matching crank chain-line BB spindle,
for a 110 wide hub/frame spread..
there are short width Sturmey Archer 3 speeds too..
Of course bought online then shipped Who knows what bending took place.
the frame have a spreader block in the dropouts when you opened the carton?
?
for a 110 wide hub/frame spread..
there are short width Sturmey Archer 3 speeds too..
Of course bought online then shipped Who knows what bending took place.
the frame have a spreader block in the dropouts when you opened the carton?
?
That is true about the paint. I may just leave it alone. Although my buddy does have a body shop and could have him paint it the same color as whatever car is in the booth at the time.
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Quote:
Something I have spotted in person with a Bikes Direct bike (Windsor) and an LBS that has a fleet of aluminum cruiser rentals. The hubs are spaced out differently than stock trim to accommodate different frames. It's achieved, obviously, with extra (or thicker) washers in between the cone and locknut on the drive side and in between the reaction arm and locknut on the NDS. The Windsor had two 4mm washers to fit the 118mm spacing. Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
Well, honestly, I never measured the spacing on my older coaster brake bikes like my Koss Cruiser, so I can't say for sure that they were not 110mm. The only coaster brake bike in my current stable is a SE Draft Coaster with a Shimano hub, and it measures about 115mm, although the reaction arm is stamped CB-E110, which suggests that the hub might be available with 110mm spacing. So, I will defer to your coaster brake expertise.
The hubs aren't supplied that way by Shimano, so it's gotta be the wheel factory making modification to suit customer specs.JohnDThompson
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Originally Posted by Seizedpost
Cheap 10 speeds from the 70s also usually had stamped dropouts. Those look forged.
Yers, they look rather like Milremo dropouts with the derailleur hanger amputated:

"Milremo" was André Bertin and Ron Kitching's house brand, and the dropouts were used on their own bikes as well as available to third-party builders.
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orangeology
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not a fan of a 'cheap' frame with chains hanging like that, no matter what it is.
I do not think I can stand that poor quality paint as seen in the most recent photo. I plan on making this a single speed, bright red, with a straight bar (already have), red and black tires (already have), and single speed sprocket (mail order). I am unsure if I should build up the black Velocity rims I have hanging or use the black Forte Titan rims I also already have.





