Hello,

New to the forum. Anyone here familiar with the new Specialized Langster Street 2017 model or have any opinions on the bike you would like to share?

Thanks!

I work at a Specialized dealer, have ridden the 2017 version and own a 2009 Langster. The 144 cranks are just not a choice I would have made for a bike like this. It is a street bike not a full on track bike so 130 BCD would have made more sense to get a lower gearing which can be handy also a freewheel is a handy thing (it is cheap enough). The white tape was also a poor choice as it is already dirty. I also don't like the fact they have removed the rack mounts (which was done a few models back) and their headset choice is garbage as it was on my 2009 (maybe less garbage than the mindset though). It is also aluminum which is not my material of choice however I won't hold that against it.

However that all being said the bike is not so bad. It does have a set up similar to my Langster (which is not stock) and the tire width choice isn't so bad (I think they do 28s). I also like the fact they went full alloy on the seatpost rather than the carbon wrap one which is fine and functional but a pain because you gotta use carbon paste (or you should).

All in all if I were going for a mid range fixed gear I might go for a Langster Street. I like bullhorns/base bars and I think 28s are a good way to go and aside from the tape it looks quite nice. However if I were buying another SS Specialized it would be a Crux SS but that bike has some issues (EBB instead of track ends...come on. Others have figured out FG/SS with discs and track ends)

Thank you very much for your detailed info! I thought the street 2017 came with a freewheel already? What freewheel would you suggest with the stock setup?

I don't have the bike in question, but 18t would be a good place to start. I started with a 44t ring and geared up to a 46t a few months back.

I like the colors for the 2017 model. Never rode one so I can't be of any assistance, but I think it would make a fine bike depending on what you're trying to get out of it. But I agree with veganbikes, white tape is so horrible it's not even funny. Mine was dirty by the time it was even done being installed almost. And my white saddle was stained from when my pants bled on it from riding in the rain. Both are easy fixes though, since you'll probably want a saddle that suits you better anyway and bar tape is cheap.

I thought the bike came with a flip flop hub but it doesn't. I would really like to be able to swap the
17t track cog, thread-on, steel lock ring with a freewheel just to experiment. Would I need a special tool for that?

Hi,

You will definitely need a lockring remover. Park sells one for about $15. Maybe others can chime in on which specific one to get, but the HCW17 might work for your application. Check out the ACS crossfire freewheels, not to expensive, and they work nice and quietly (got one on my SS bike now).

Dave

Also will need a chain whip to remove the cog.

For freewheel I generally recommend going about 1-2 teeth larger than your chosen cog size. Assuming of course you are using it for bail out purposes or as the easy gear. If you are using it for direct replacement to run it as a dedicated SS rig then certainly go for the same size as your chosen cog size. You can easily get a pretty cheap Shimano FW and test some out before you settle and if you decide what size is right for you and want to upgrade, White Industries has got you covered.

The Pedro's Trixie might be a decent option as well if you want something more portable. It is a decent fixed gear multi tool that has a lockring tool on it. It is great for the fixed kids around me who seem to buy the cheapest crap on the internet try to bungle it together themselves with wood sticks and hammers and never have a tight lockring and can't figure out why. However those folks also tend to ride with no brakes and skid their bike like it was a pair or tidy whiteys. You seem like you might have a bit more sense.

I just purchased a 2017 Langster street which is equiped with a flip flop rear wheel.

Congrats on the purchase but what is the point of this post which happens to be a ZOMBIE POST, just to say you bought a bike and it has a certain wheel?

Enjoy the bike but please don't Zombie threads to post nothing.

Brrrraaaaaaiiiiinnnnsssss

i think he was replying to post #6

Hi veganbikes,

I'm thinking of building a Langster with a 2008 Langster Chicago 54cm body. I've never built my own bike, so I have a few questions if you don't mind:

1. I can do minor repairs (i.e., changing tires and wheels; adjusting caliper brakes). Are there any parts you recommend I get done professionally instead of doing on my own? After I'm done, I plan on taking it to a mechanic to inspect to make sure I did everything right.

2. What's the widest wheel/tire you can put on a Langster that size? I live in Chicago, have mostly ridden mountain bikes, and get a ton of flats with my road bike.

3. What do you think about disk brakes on it?

Thanks!

You'll need a different fork to put a front disc brake on it. Rear is no-go altogether.

Good to know. Thanks!

1. What tools do you have? If you have the tools to install the bottom bracket you are using and the crank arms and chainrings, you are part of the way there. You will need grease for any bolts/metal on metal contact and allen keys and torque wrench for seatpost/stem and for installing brakes. You will also need cable and housing cutters and probably some other basic tools. Headset would likely need to be done at your local shop along and possibly wheel builds unless you have a truing stand or are buying pre-built wheels. You can do a lot at home if you know what you are doing if not you will want to be very careful because mistakes can get costly.

I work in a shop so when I am building a bike for myself I will generally have our head tech put it together or at least finish the build and make sure everything is properly tuned and torqued. I don't mind buying my fellow workers some beer and certainly don't mind that my mechanic is a Shimano race mechanic and has been doing this for 30+ years and has worked on bikes for pros. There is a lot I can do and on some of my parts bin builds I do a lot myself but my top shelf stuff I usually farm out to him because he does excellent work I can trust. Plus he loves the fun projects I give him, a good break from fixing cheap bikes or nice bikes in poor shape. He will certainly be installing my Sugino 75DD cranks and eeBrakes on my new Langster (after 11 years of age the bottom bracket cracked on the old one and I was sad but they replaced it right away)

2. Most likely you will get a 28c tire. I am doubtful you will fit much wider. I was very surprised when I was able to fit my 28 gatorskins without too much fuss.

3. It doesn't have any disc brake mounts so my opinion doesn't even matter. You cannot do it. If you want discs go All City Nature Boy.

1. I have allen keys, socket wrenches, pedal wrenches, adjustable wrench, cable and housing cutters, slip joint and needle nose pliers. I'm thinking of investing in a torque wrench and bottom bracket wrench. I might also take a few classes and make friends with local mechanics. I'll probably buy pre-build wheels since I don't have a truing stand.

2. 28c gatorskins sound great. Do you know how they compare with Specialized Nimbus Armadillos?

3. It looks like I'd have to swap out the fork for front disks, and rear disks are no-go, so I'll stick with caliper breaks.

Thanks!

1. I would certainly avoid using adjustable wrenches for most things but everything else looks like a solid set up to do a good deal of stuff. You might still want to take it down to your local shop and have them get it all to 100%

2. I am not a fan of the Nimbus tires, Armadillo All Conditions aren't so bad but I would stick with Gators all day everyday for commuting if I knew I couldn't go above 32c.

3. Brakes but yeah stick with those if you want a good brake the Cane Creek eeBrake is probably the best rim brake on the market. Super lightweight, great actuation and just phenomenal performance. They aren't cheap but the good stuff isn't. However if you are really looking to save money, spend more money on top end brake pads (such as SwissStop or the SRAM pads which are made by them) and really nice cables and housing (I prefer the Elite Link from Jagwire but you could also find a good compressionless housing and a good uncoated slick/polished stainless cable) and those will make some meh brakes perform a bit better.