lockrings
 

Hi,

My lbs put my fixed gear lockring on with loctite. Does it still need to be tightened? Will tightening it break the loctite?

Dave

Your lbs sucks.

Did they use red or blue Loctite?

*secretly hoping for the red* What he said.

Next time tell them to put on the lockring with grease and tighten it down to proper spec and make sure to check it every so often. If you are using the pavement as your undies and skidding, you will want to check it even more often.

loctite
 

Hi, not sure if it's blue or red. Looks like they applied it to the threads, so I can't see it. What is the difference between red and blue? My bike has front and rear brakes that I use to stop, guessing the lockring still needs to be checked sporadically? Is the loctite a pain to get off the threads after breaking it?

Dave

Ask the "mechanic", not a forum.

Blue Loctite can be broken using moderate force. Red Loctite is pretty much permanent. Good luck.

Blue is "temporary" and red is "permanent."

Is it a true track hub (with a smaller-diameter left-thread lockring) or a road hub? If it's a road hub, the lockring is right threaded and using loctite makes sense.

Loctite on a lockring? I've never heard of that before. Now, I don't skid and never have. But I still don't know why you would need Loctitie. Backing off the cog tightens the lockring. Unless things are so loose to start with that you are stressing and damaging the threads, I see no need. (And that's what chainwhips and lockring spanners are for; tools every shop has.)

Ben - a guy who's been riding these fixie things for 40 years and the miles of (4) laps around the plane

Edit: Trakhak - good point

Sounds like there are better mechanics here on the forum than at his LBS. :)

Lockring
 

Its a track hub. Sounds like overkill.

Dave

Back when I got the Kilo, I needed to gear down from the stock 48t ring to a 44t ring. Wouldn't you know it, the bastard came with the Locktite on the chainring bolts. Had to drill 'em.

FWIW red and blue Loctite both loose their strength around 100C. If it does not come apart with reasonable force, heat it up with a heat gun until spit sizzles and try it then. It should come right off.

Ride Safe,

Joe

100C ?... say, what's the flash point of hub grease?

Or plastic cartridge bearing seals?

100C is boiling water. I hope I am not putting myself in danger adding olive oil to my pasta water.

Ben

Pauls
 

> 100c

No danger, just wasting perfectly good olive oil in boiling water. Oil in pasta water really doesn't do much. If you keep your water at a boil and stir your pasta with some regularity you shouldn't get sticking. Generally it is the people who turn down the heat or don't stir that will get sticky pasta. Also good quality pasta can help out and it will taste better when properly prepared.

The Loctite Red 271 product page says it requires 260°C or about 500°F.
Henkel (manufacturer of Loctite) has a blog post which says 550°F.
Either way, pretty much permanent for a bike. The LBS obviously doesn't do many fixed gear bikes.

I'd bring the bike back to the LBS and politely ask them to remove the lockring. If it turns out to be Red 271 then I'd politely ask them to replace my wheel and take it from there.


-Tim-

You shouldn't do this. Slick noodles don't hold sauce as well. Starch in the water is your friend. In fact, at work I harvest starch off the pasta tank to add to the sauce as a thickener. Just make sure you stir the noodles from time to time to keep them from sticking.

Jesus ****ing Christ, we're debating oil on noodles now.

Salt in the pasta water is more important than oil.

I use salt, and nothing else. Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Singlespeed & Fixed Gear > how to boil pasta properly

Make it taste like the sea!

I made a steak and past last night. Oil is for cooking the steak and then for pouring onto the finished pasta for extra awesome flavor.

Putting oil in your pasta water is just wasting oil.

Wow! Lessons on how I should be cooking and eating. I prepare food as #1, good sustenance for my body. Olive oil is always good, the more the better. The fact that it also minimizes the glue factor if I don't eat all the noodles then and refrigerate them is a plus. I don't make up pasta sauce. The noodles are usually served bento bowl style.

Salt? I put very little salt on my food - again trying for the best sustenance for my body. I learned many years ago that the less salt I eat on an everyday basis, the less salt I sweat. That has several real benefits, all of which help my riding. Less sodium depletion. Less salt in my eyes. In my racing days when I went really low salt, my sweat did not sting my eyes. I also rode really strong when we hit 98 & 98 (degrees and humidity). Riding clothes stay cleaner and a lot more pleasant, esp late on hot rides.

It's good to have grandparents here on the forum to look after me, but I will take some of their advice with that grain of salt. :)

Ben

lockring
 

LBS is 900 miles away (I recently moved). Should I get a lockring tool and try to tighten it periodically, or can I leave it alone?

Dave

You should have a lockring tool and cog wrench (chain whip), but in your case, there is no rush. Nothing is going anywhere for quite a while.

If it were me, I'd take off both after the tools came, grease the threads and reassemble. (You may need the 100C heat mentioned above if the shop used Red.)

The Pedros Trixie is a decent lockring tool and good hub nut wrench. (If you ever go to a fancy 12 600th lockring, the Pedros is far easier to use without slipping than a conventional spanner. I put my Park spanner away and use the Trixie under my bike's toolbag every time I use my 12t lockring.) Make sure you have chain that works with your cogs on the cog wrench. 8, 9 and 10 tooth chain will slip on an 1/8" cog.

Ben

About 30 years ago, I accidentally used red loctite on a gun part (didn't know any better). They told me to put it in the oven, and I believe it was 350 at the time. Twenty minutes later, no problem at all. Maybe I should have cooked noodles while I was waiting?