This is one of those cases where both sides of the argument make perfect sense to me. The other side here being that lubrication can lead to bolt over-tightening and consequent deformation of the spindle and crank (because the lubrication encourages the crank arm to slide farther onto the taper than it should at a given torque).

Personally, I split the difference: Apply a super thin film of grease to the spindle, just enough (I hope) to provide a barrier but not so much (I hope) as to promote slipperiness. I have no idea if this works.

That sounds good. I don't go crazy with the lube either. If you're worried about over-tightening, use a torque wrench.

Dave

Bb width
 

What determines bb width on a fixie? Got a 118mm now. If I buy a Wabi frame which uses 103mm obviously my current bb is no good. Would my current wheels be ok as far as chainline on the wabi?

Dave

That's precisely the problem with lube on the spindle though. The lube makes the crank slide farther onto the spindle at a given torque. So, holding torque equal, the crank will slide farther down a lubed spindle than an unlubed one, possibly leading to deformation of the contact surfaces.

Think about the different mechanics involved in bolting on a crank versus all the other bolts you tighten on your bike. Typically, you're just squeezing the broad surface of one part directly against the broad surface of another. (Think, stem and handlebars, or seat post and seat tube.) But, with the crank, you're sliding it farther and farther onto the taper of the spindle. Totally different mechanics involved.

All modern frames use a 68mm bb shell. Spindle length is then determined solely by your crankset., i.e., you need to choose a spindle length that will give your cranks the right chainline and keep them from hitting the chainstays.

Kinda depends on the manufacturer. Phil recommends lightly greasing their bottom bracket spindles, for example. If the BB wasn't designed with greased installation in mind, then I guess you might risk pushing it too far onto the spindle.

Phil Wood & Co.

There are some people who believe that with lube, the same amount of torque will press the crank on further, potentially causing damage. Over the years I've read everything I can possibly find on the subject and I'm still not sure which camp I belong in.

but if you do it wrong your bike will explode

edit: TIL that bikeforums automatically downcases the entire comment if you overuse all-caps. :p

Sounds weird to me because JIS and ISO tapers are the same, 2 degrees off the centerline. However, they use different length and section of the total taper. Maybe they mean they recommend it for their cranks, which I'm sure they want you pairing to their bottom brackets.

So are you saying the rear wheel will be ok as is?

Dave

If it's s standard 120mm spaced single speed/fixed gear hub, it'll be fine.

Well I am behind my planned schedule but maybe its better I didn't rush my project...since in some of the last few posts we got onto Phil Wood's factory bottom bracket installation instructions - please allow me to personalize my earlier BB question a bit as that is what I just installed on my bike and it is those very instructions that brought it about.

I've always done it before anyway, and considering they say to do it - I'm going to put a light grease coating on my tapers.

Now onto my next dilemma(s)...

Out of curiosity - is anybody here actually running a Phil's BB? Due to its few mm adjustabiliy -their cup/cartridge interface is different from all the other square taper BBs I have used before, so I have a couple questions...

1) I've never used thread lock when I intalled the cups in my previous bottom brackets. In fact, I greased the threads some and cranked them in. Even so, I had a helluva time breaking my old BB loose on this bike. Phil is telling me that it is a must to use their included blue thread lock but I don't want to - is anybody here with any Phil Woods bottom bracket experience going to tell me it will assplode, if I don't?

2) I don't own a torque wrench but that has never been a problem before since I am not a hamfist. Like I said earlier - this BB has a different cup/cartridge interface than I am used to so I am having trouble deciding whether to leave it a tiny bit looser to make it freer-spinning or tighten it a little more for "safety", which gives it some "sealed bearing resistance." Can I get any educated comments here on what to do about this?

Sorry for TL;DR and TIA for any help...

I've been using one for about two years now.

1)Blue Loctite is required. It prevents the cups from loosening and simultaneously acts as anti-seize compound. I hold the cup vertically and put a few drops on top and let them bleed down into all of the threads. Make sure the threads in your frame are thoroughly clean and grease-free.

2) Phil Wood's official instructions say to torque the the cups to 40 N-m. I don't know how they arrived at this figure, as I actually destroyed the bearings in mine doing this when installing it for the first time in my Steamroller. Here's what I do: Once you figure out where you want the cartridge located laterally in the frame simply tighten the cups and you'll feel the bearings is seating into the cups and then they'll 'stop' once fully seated. Turn the spindle with your hand, it should spin just like it did before installing. If it's draggy at all, back off one side a smidge. IMO, the cups should only be tight enough to ensure there is no play (just like a hub bearing), then let the Loctite take it from there. Just be sure to let the Loctite set for 12 hours before riding.

I pulled mine out after 3,000 miles of silent operation to check it's condition after cyclocross season and it was still good-to-go. I have two Phil BB's right now (one is waiting for a new frame) and they both work perfectly when installed this way. Also, having two installation tools is highly recommended.

Thanx for the info & recommendations - am waiting now for the Loctite to cure...

Maybe I'll get this thing put back together sometime :rolleyes:

No problem. When I removed mine the first time I found it took quite a lot of force to actually break the cups loose (Loctite, duh) but there was no corrosion/seize-ing of the threads whatsoever. Worked great.

Would some shallow riser bars look weird with a quill stem? I can't seem to picture it - I feel like they look more natural on newer stems.
This bike

I think it would be fine. But those rims look wrong for that frame to me.

Yeah I know I kinda got talked into them at the shop when I was first rebuilding this bike. I don't love them but can't afford new wheels right now.

Yeah, risers will look fine. Just don't put Oury grips on them or someone will have a heart attack. Also, Velomine has H+Son TB14/Formula wheelsets for under 200, which would be super slick on that bike.

Now that's hatin. :roflmao2:

Hahaha, I keed. In all seriousness I'm totally willing to put aside differences in the name of keeping Ourys off road bikes.

You needn't worry - I just googled them and threw-up a little bit in my mouth.
Suggestions for acceptable grips?
(Also a cool bar? Shallow rise?)

Long chain stays and slack angles are screamin for townie bars. Yes, of course, I would say that. ;)

Not my style, unfortunately.

My favorite grips are from Ergon

I'm looking at new brake levers for the Nature Boy, the TRP's I have now are screwing up my hands.

Thinking SRAM. Should I go with the S500s, S900s or ball out even more and get two left Force?

http://tinyurl.com/ybpgqwzv

I would assume the lefthand levers aren't designed with righthand ergonomics in mind, but then I've never used SRAM levers.

S500's, that way you won't cry when slam them into a fence post, barn or tree like I have. I assume the last option is a joke.

Well... my Little Wing has S900s, but she's a little spoiled. The S500s are probably better than fine.

S500 are $52.84 at Ribble right now but you have to pay $5.46 for shipping.

Niagra has them for $58.95 + shipping.